P15-D24

Don't know the year of your engine, but for a D24 this is the factory procedure: Use a new gasket when installing the pump, if the position of number 1 piston was accidentally changed while the pump was off, remove number 1 spark plug. Rotate the crankshaft and check compression on number 1 cylinder by hold- ing thumb tightly over spark plug hole 01' by installing a compression gauge in hole. When compression is felt by thumb 01' shows on gauge, continue to turn crankshaft until piston is on top dead center as indicated when the pointer points to DC on the vibration damper (Fig. 26). Turn pump drive shaft until the slot in the end of the drive shaft lines up with the cap screw holes in the mounting flange (Fig. 27). Then turn the drive gear one tooth counter-clockwise. Loosen the distributor lock screw and raise the distributor just enough to allow the pump to be installed. Tighten pump cap screws. With dis-tributor still raised, turn rotor as shown infigure 28 until it points to about "seven o'clock," move the rotor back and forth slightly to allow the tongue of distributor shaft to engage with the slot of the oil pump drive shaft. Install num- ber one spark plug and distributor cap. adjust timing as outlined in "Electrical Section."

Needs to pull the front valve cover and verify #1 piston is in firing position (both valves closed, continue to turn it over a little further and the exhaust valve opens next). If not you are probably 180 degrees off on the rotor. Loosen the distributor lockdown nut, pull it out enough till the rotor turns and reset 180 degrees from the original location.

You need fuel, compression and spark. Check for each. Pull the plugs and do a compression check. Anywhere for #80 to #110 should run. While you have the plugs out, check for spark. Ground it to the head and crank the engine. Should see the plug flash every second or so. Pull the air filter, look sown the carb throat and snap the throttle open. should see a stream of gas shot down. If not, pull the 4 crews on the top cover, left it off and see if their is any gas in the bowl where the brass float sits. Report back what you find. You may/probably will have multiple issues in all three areas if it has been sitting for a while.

Agree that would explain your weird pedal issues. You need to do a full brake job.

Back to your original question. When the pedal goes to the floor, can you pump it a couple times to get it a full pedal? Then the next time it will go back to the floor?

It's actually cheaper because you get three stickers vs two, plus no shipping on the stickers.

Fits all sizes, even works on my F150

Pretty easy, just match the dots on the cam gears, put the chain on. You will need to verify when #1 is firing position the rotor is pointing to the correct wire location on the cap. If not rotate it 180 degrees.

Here you go:

Looks great on the bumper!

Read this: http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/218_teardown.html/

Trick is have a dowel that fits inside that is just the length of the gears. It will hold the needle bearing in place. Drop it in the case then push the dowel out with the actual shaft.

If one is worn out I would replace all and install a new small part kit. You will need a big puller to get the bearing out, but the overhaul is actually pretty straight forward. I would also do the synchro.

Your generosity is appreciated and a big thank you for being an active contributor to the site. Thank you! GT

I'll be so happy when the rainy season is over! Unfortunately, this one is looking more serious, especially all day tomorrow into the evening, Up to 12 inches in the mountain behind us. We may be leaving with our zoo (2 dogs, 3 cats) mid-morning tomorrow.

Figure shipping weight of #600.

They don't rub on the duals?

Thanks Tod, and as he noted if you don't like the topic, don't post. I think it is important we are open to these type of mods because they are common and the challenges it presents may help others even if they are not using SBC. And as the header logo notes, Flathead to V8s, Stock to Custom are welcome and encouraged to start threads.

New term in the local vocabulary, "evacuation fatigue".

Think we already have one uploaded. If you could download it and see if it is same as yours.

We are good, storm broke up a bit as it passed over so we never got to a critical point. Two more storms this week but looks like they won't reach an evacuation level intensity.

Most likely 3.9. It's marked on the dif.

We are sheltering in place again, only good news is the storm won't hit till daylight tomorrow morning. Will be watching the radar images on NOAA closely in the morning.

And if you contact Butch's please let them know you heard about them on p15-D24.com.

If you want to moderate it we could start a club with the C series focus. Just click on the Club tab to get and idea of what's available.