Jeff Balazs

I still think it is a fuel delivery issue. Try pulling the carb off and give it a close inspection. Perhaps some dirt lodged somewhere? or an orifice plugged up. I have to say that you almost can't filter the gas enough these days. I have also found that with the ethanhol in these modern fuels regular use of a fuel additive like MMO is helpful. Hth, Jeff

Ha! Their RR Merlin was better than anything we built at the time. Fastest prop engined combat plane to see lots of action was the absolutely amazing Mosquito with a pair of Merlins.

Nice find! Love those 9' beds. You will have fun with it. Jeff

I would urge you to do a careful assessment of the entire truck before taking the engine in for a rebuild. There is an awful lot of other things that may need dealing with there that could be way more problematic than the engine. For example what shape is the frame in? Mine was bent pretty badly and yet my truck "looked" a hundred times better than what you are starting off with. I suggest a real plan before starting off with much. These trucks are not all that easy or cheap to complete. Jeff

To me this kinda sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Could be the fuel pump or a partially collapsed fuel line. Hth, Jeff

Yes put them back together but do not tighten the connection bolts until you have done an intilial torquing of the manifold mounts. Jeff

Best is still the best. I had similar issues with the Felpro I fitted first. And re-torque at least 3 times at short intervals after it has come up to operating temp a few times. Hth, Jeff

Interesting. I have the same problem with my vintage 6V Westach tachometer. Does not work correctly with the Pertronix module. If anyone ever figures out a fix for this one I would sure like to know. I won't be going back to points just to have a working tach. That's for sure. ? Jeff

Good luck finding new ones. Usually have to find another latch....and rob Peter to pay Paul. Jeff

Could it be some sort of solenoid actuated heater control valve? Perhaps it was used instead of a manual valve on the heater connection at the rear of the cylinder head. Jeff

I have a 52 B-3-C which is my daily driver and lives outside. I will tell you that it is a real chore to get these cabs totally sealed up....even with the "good" stuff. And I am in Southern California where we do not get much rain these days. Can't imagine how bad it would be in harsh weather. I have not used the DCM stuff but I doubt very much there is a one source shop to get this task accomplished. I mainly used the Steel products and have fussed and fussed with the windshield. Not absolutely certain but I think my replacement glass might be a bit undersized. At any rate I have got it to stop leaking from time to time only to have it start again somewhere else in a different spot. Vigilance is required. Jeff

Welcome to the group. Cool truck. Don't sweat the Fluid drive thing. My 52 B-3-C has it and it drives fine just like a conventional stick....perhaps a bit smoother. About the only time I actually "use" it is stop-n-go on a hill and then only rarely. Rest of the time it gets used just like a regular stick shift. Have fun with it. Jeff

That is what I thought Don until I had to fuss with 3 different sets of crappy repop points. A lot of this stuff is just junk now a days. This experience is what got me to switch over to the Pertronix. At least for me it has been Fit and Forget. And I drive my truck every day. Jeff

Well I do carry a spare module. Just have not needed it. I do the same with other items too like fuel pumps and filters....stuff that isn't on the shelves too often. Got if I need it..... but I haven't. One tip I have heard is that sometimes the module can be damaged by using old ignition switches that may have high resistance etc.... I can't say for certain but my set up is 100% reliable. To add to what Merle mentioned the inside of the distributor cap and rotor on my truck looks brand new so things stay a lot cleaner and that is good too. Jeff

I have a 6V Pertronix system that has been in daily service for more than 4 years. Absolutely no issues at all. The problems I have heard of is when it is not used with a matched coil.....or if wiring used is the wrong size. Any piece of electronics is subject to failure if it is not installed properly. Having made this mod....successfully..... I would never consider going back to points. It is that good. Jeff

Funny....but it is always obvious after the fact. ?

Does the OP actually have Hy-Drive? His initial post included a query as to if these bearings could be used in a standard shift application..... Jeff

I am pretty certain it is just a material based difference. They offered upgraded rear main bearings for the fluid drive equipped vehicles. I fitted this on my Fluid drive truck. Jeff

Well that process seems completely different from a couple of You-tube videos I watched. In those there was a retainer and bearing race that needed to be cut off. They did not say anything about C clips either. They were saying that it is a good idea to replace the bearings while you have the axles out..... Jeff

You need to check your vacuum readings with a good gauge. I am betting that it is too low for the idle mixture screw to work. Try adjusting the timing until you get a higher reading .....18" to 21" is about optimum. Then see what happens as you adjust the mixture screw. Hth, Jeff

Merle; Yes I believe it did come as a 5x5 pattern. I just crawled under to have a look and discovered that I have a leak at the driver side seal. I wonder when that started and how hard it is going to be to fix it? I bought the axle used and have put 15 thousand miles on it. Guess it was bound to happen. Jeff

Mid 90's models are quite popular. I swapped in a early 2000's out of a Grand Cherokee into my 3/4 ton. Got 3.55 ratio and rear discs at the same time. So there are choices..... Need to save the shock mounts and reuse for the swap. Hth, Jeff

Hello and welcome. You definitely have the right idea about doing an axle swap. It is going to be the best and most cost effective way to up your cruising speed. I would guess you could probably go as high as a 4.10 or a bit lower say around 5.0. I can't help you with axle selection for this but surely someone else here will have more specifics. Very cool truck you got. Enjoy! Jeff

Thanks. I will be refinishing it this winter and will do a sketch with dimensions then if anyone wants to make one for themselves. It has worked out really well for me. I carry a full tool kit with Jack, fluids, etc...all of the time on one side. Sometimes haul groceries with out a fuss. I have a good quality cooler that fits right in on the other side. I can keep my fish on ice when returning from trips like yesterday evening. Got a nice Mahi Mahi for tonight's dinner. Mama is very happy. Jeff

Here is the one I built for my truck a few years ago. Gets used all the time. Jeff