garbagestate 44

I have found that firebrick cement used for furnace repair works pretty good for a temporary fix. It's available at hardware stores etc. You put it in the hole and let it dry long enough so that exhaust pressure won't blow it out when you start the engine. After that, the exhaust heat makes it hard as a rock. good luck.

There's an excellent chance that if you have sludge in the cannister there is plenty of it in the deep part of the pan.

There are a small group of people out there for whom money really is no object. They watch the decimal points on there net worth change from one year to the next but don't really care. These people don't care if they over pay. Unlike myself who does a bunch of soul searching and prevaricating before spending 20 bucks on some piece of crap. That's the way it goes.

You're right, I guess all I have to do is use a non pressurized cap. The cold weather must be getting to my brain.

Back to the radiator issue,those aftermarket aluminum radiators are a good deal when you look at the cost of a recore. I just picked one up for the Chrysler and it looks good. It's for a 49 Chrysler which must have a narrower core support than the 47 but installation should be no problem. I think that the only thing I have to watch out for is that turns the cooling system from a non pressurized system to a pressurized one and who knows if the 63 year old heater core is going to hold up or not.

Sometimes clearance can be gained by manually turning the crank so that the counter weights are up in the front at the shallowest part of the pan. You can by trial and error,gain some wiggle room that way. Good luck

This power wagon was in the back of a load of general freight at the place I work. The guy had picked it up in Indiana and was delivering it to a guy in New Hampshire. It had shifted a little and the driver asked me to stick it in gear for him. The door didn't open and I had to squeeze through the open driver side window to do it. Before he left we donated a couple of wheel chocks to improve his chances.

With the exhaust exiting from the front and that big pulley on the trans, It almost looks like a sawmill application.

I put my 265 on it's side to remove the oil pan. I took a wooden pallet and bolted large casters to it to roll the engine around since space was tight. After I reinstalled the pan, I built a crude box out of a 2x10 that fit around the pan so that when I stood it back up it stayed level.

When I topped off the fluid coupling the car was on a right to left incline so when it appeared to be full, it was actually low. I put a level across the front bumper, let the air out of the driver side tires and jacked up the passenger side till it was on the bubble and added another pint of fluid. Also, when I changed the rear mounts, I think it threw the clutch out of adjustment since the trans was now sitting a half an inch higher than it was on the old mounts. First I adjusted it in too far and when I released it, I was "riding the clutch". Now it's pretty good. It grinds a little going into reverse but if I shift into the high range first ( m-6 ) then reverse, it's smooth. I probably would never have figured half this stuff out if it wasn't for this forum, Thanks

Thanks, here's a shot of the car when I got it back in 07

After some clutch and fluid coupling issues, I got the 47 to move a few feet. Purely symbolic since it has no brakes except the parking brake and the sun had set by the time I got to that point. It represents the first time that it's moved under it's own power since the late sixties.

I always thought the 56 ford, although nice looking,was a little stubby and the 58 grille was trying too hard with the extra set of headlights and the chrome. The 57 had pretty clean lines and looked like it was moving even when it was standing still. I'll eventually get back to work on mine once I get the 47 Chrysler a little further along.

Don't feel bad. I have a 57 Ford Fairlane 500 model 64b club sedan with a 292 Y block and a 2 speed Ford-o-matic transmission. It's no show car but it's in a garage. I've managed to hang onto it since 1976 when I picked it up for a song.

There's a guy who really does have too much time on his hands.

I have found from restoring old radios and from working on the 47 that the dyes used in the cloth covered wire can fade a lot over 6 or 7 decades and for that reason,color I.D. can be misleading. good luck-J

When you get the new mounts installed, You may have to adjust your shift linkage depending on how squished your old mounts are. Good luck

You could do a leak down test before pulling the head. That might help narrow down where the bulk of the problem is.

I was talking to an old time forklift mechanic a while back who worked on lots of Chrysler L-6's and he said that wet tests on valve in block arrangments can be misleading since as the piston gets to the top of the stroke, the oil washes into the valve train making it hard to say exactly where the seepage is occuring.

The battery is rated at 650cca and is about 2 years old. I did allow it to sit around in the basement for a few months during the winter months so maybe that took a toll on it. Before I started it the first time I static timed it to top dead center just to get it running. It runs well enough but won't hold an idle. Oil pressure is great if I can believe my 63 year old gauge.

Hi all, I have a slow cranking problem with my 265. I charged the battery to 100 % and after maybe 8 seconds of cranking, it dropped down to about 90%. Does this seem excessive? The motor is from about 1970,has never been used and I have had it running but not long enough for the rings to seat so it's still tight. When I did get it to start, I used a 12 volt battery. Something I don't like to do since it probably beats up on the coil and solenoid. Unlike the p-15 which uses a bendix drive, this has the solenoid mounted on the starter with the iron slug which when energized, rams the pinion into the flywheel. They are real expensive to replace. Anyway I went to 2/0 battery cables, changed the brushes and even changed the armature with a NOS one that I picked up for a song on Ebay last year. The drive bushings didn't seem to have excessive play nor did I see any evidence of the armature dragging on the field coils. Some time ago I brought the battery to a mechanic for a load test and was greeted with that "deer in the headlights" look which I am sure many of you are familiar with. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

It just goes to show you, there are more neat old cars out there than there are people willing to fix them up. I personally have enough stuff to keep me busy for years.

I had a 72 chevy impala once that would make a loud rythmic thump only when making left turns. It turns out that the trans was lifting off the crossmember and hitting the floorpan. I think that the mounts are worth looking at.

If you pull the floorpan cover off you can pretty much see everything thats going on while you work the shifter. It's a little work especially if you have nice carpeting but it helps to rule out or confirm binding of the linkage.

I just went to a parts counter and grabbed the first spring they gave me and it works fine. Good luck