garbagestate 44
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Everything posted by garbagestate 44
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I'll bet you could fake it with an o-ring since they come in so many sizes and thicknesses. Mine was close to ruin but I managed to salvage it with some silicone based adhesive with no leaks.
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I did it pretty much the same way Don did, a single chain attached to the center line of head bolts. Good luck
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Vintage power wagons probably has them. Or at least they are shown in their online catalog. Good luck
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The floorpan is easy. The cover is held on by 10 or 15 bolts that are all right there when you remove the carpeting. With the cover off, everything is easy to reach. If the trans is a fluid drive, there may be a solenoid or two that may have to be removed so it will clear the fixed part of the floor when you pull it back. Good luck
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If it's like a 47 Chrysler, the fuel line runs along the outside of the driver's side frame rail, through the body hangers and over the hump to the tank. Offhand I can't remember exactly where it crosses over the frame to the tank but its probably at the top of the hump over the rear axle.
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I think that it has been suggested on this forum that you can but it would be best to do a search on the topic.Use "internal bypass" as your search words and you'll come up with lots of discussions on the subject. I will say that the bump on my ind 32 did interfere with the 4th bolt on my water pump back plate forcing me to grind it down a little bit. (the bolt, not the bump). I'll also probably have to alter the vacuum advance line since the channel formed by the front of the head and the back of the water pump is now blocked by the bump. Hope this helps and good luck.
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Drive Your Old Mopar to Work Week......
garbagestate 44 replied to BobT-47P15's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Even if my 47 was roadworthy I'd never take it to work. It's Rt 280 to the New Jersey turnpike and then get off at the infamous exit 15 E. The criminals don't even go there except to torch the stolen cars after a hard night of joyriding. There are plenty of feral dogs too and let me tell you, they are at least as mean as they look. Nope, the 47 and the 57 will never be making the trip down there as long as I own them. -
Yeah, I have also heard that the Chrysler 8's had weak cranks. And that was from a former Chrysler mechanic.
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It's worth the extra hassle to keep the original steering wheel if possible since a modern wheel looks out of place with the rest of the dash. Lots of 40's cars have dashboard that look like the designers were trying too hard but the c-38,p-15,and d-24 have some nice symmetry that the steering wheel can only enhance.
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I have a cork one on my 47 Chrysler 251 but I can see where it could be substituted with a rubber o ring. There are so many sizes to choose from.
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Thanks. I guess I'm being paranoid. It doesn't weigh as much as it could since I pulled the gear box and intake/exhaust. Although I didn't remove the front fenders and inner side walls sheet metal, I did pull the grill and related stuff so the whole thing should slide forward nicely through the core support without having to jack it up too high l
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I'm getting ready to pull the motor on my 47 Chrysler in a week or so and I have a concern or two. I've pulled motors before but never a flathead. I figure on attaching the chains on 4 points so the per bolt loading gets spread out a little bit. What bothers me is that the head which is basically just a hollow casting might get damaged by the chain links when I start to lift it out(the links that are in contact with the head) Is this a valid concern or am I being ridiculous? John
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I could expect to see Moses out there waxing my 47 before I saw my wife doing it.
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Different only in the sense that it has "Spitfire " in relief with those cool lightning bolts. Long block only.
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Just a long shot but could you have lost one those lead balancing weights from one of your wheels?
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Interesting - a p15 wagon with fluid drive (?)
garbagestate 44 replied to BobT-47P15's topic in P15-D24 Forum
If it was a fluid drive, wouldn't there be some wiring going to the carb and a relay on the sidewall? Or is that just for an M-6 fluid drive. -
The last time I did it I got 4 bolts of the same thread type but an inch longer and hung the pan by them at the 4 corners and tightened them a little at a time so the end gaskets compressed evenly into the channels. I did not use any kind of sealer on them since they have to float when being compressed. When the pan was close enough to start installing the regular bolts, I did that next. It worked like a charm. Good luck
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I've done this at least three times and never had to remove any of the steering gear. Depending on what part of the stroke the pistons in the shallow part of the pan are at, you may have to crank the motor a little by hand to get the crank counterweights out of the way to give you more clearance but it should be no problem. If I remember correctly, turning the steering wheel all the way left or right (I forget which ) gets the main steering knuckle partly out of the way aiding your removal. I hope this helps, You're coupe is a nice looking car. John
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Does your better half support this hobby?
garbagestate 44 replied to Fireball's topic in P15-D24 Forum
If my Chrysler were to suddenly get real heavy and sink to the middle of the earth my wife's only concern would be filling in the hole made by it's passing -
Glad it all worked out, I hope I'm in the same boat in a couple of months when I fire up my ind 32. The choke should be open slightly after it starts by the rush of air through the carb. After that, the heat treated element in the choke base should open it the rest of the way as the motor warms up. Good luck, John
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When I do the 12 volt assist, I begin cranking with the 6v and then connect the 12v. Also, If you have one of those sisson chokes, The 12v jump will eventually make the unit too hot to touch so it might be advisable to disconnect it and have an assistant work the choke manually given the expensive replacement cost if you fry it.
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I work for a bottled gas distributor in the Ironbound section of Newark N.J. There is on some level, a certain beauty to the sheer ugliness of the area. The place is littered with remnants of once bustling factories which have long since fallen to decay and disrepair. I'm pretty lucky since I get all the jobs that everybody else either can't do or don't want to do since I've been at it for so many years.
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When I was in high school in the mid 70's I had a Social Studies teacher who loved to travel. She had a beautiful black 48 P-15 4 door that she drove cross country and north through Canada for a vacation in Alaska. At the time I owned a c-38 Chrysler that I was afraid to drive past the county line
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I need a title for a 47 plymouth business coupe
garbagestate 44 replied to LTROYMCD's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I think there are a variety of companies that can provide replacment titles for a fee. I'm not sure how it works but do a search of "auto title services" or "lost title services" or something like that and see what you come up with. I think that if you can produce a bill of sale, or some proof of ownership, they should be able to do it. At the very least, they probably have 800 numbers so that you can talk to somebody who can walk you through the process. Good luck -
first start in 15-20 years help
garbagestate 44 replied to jnmaricic's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
The starter is an easy thing to check. I had a problem like that on my 47. I would have sworn that I had a defective battery until I eventually pulled the commutator plate off and found that 1 of the 4 brushes was hanging up in its guide making only partial contact with the armature. After I corrected that it worked great. That might not work for you but like I said, it's an easy thing to check. John