bkahler

I'm curious as to what kind of mirror arm is on the truck. Its screwed in place just in front of the door. Almost like an Advance Design chevy pickup of the era. Brad

I thought you were going to say a Model 610T radio..... Brad

It kind of looks like a Messerschmidt (like the German plane) but different . They are classified as micro cars. We have a BMW Isetta that is about the same size but different shape. Brad

Zeke, what did you say your address was again ?

Does moose taste like chicken?

Frank, I doubt very much connecting to both outlets will make a difference. They should be tied together internally on the generator. Your generator will only put out 17 amps even if the outlets are rated at 15 amps each. More than likely your problem is the gauge of wire you're using from the well connection to your generator. The smaller the wire the more voltage drop you have which means your current requirements go up. Use the largest extension cord you have and keep it short. For something like this you really need a minimum of a 12 gauge cord and ideally a 10 gauge would be best. You only have a little over 17 amps from the generator and starting your well pump is going to tax the generator. Starting current on the pump is probably about 3 times (36 amps) the running current (12 amps). It sounds like your generator might be able to deal with the starting current but I'm betting your extension cord is to small. Change it if you can and let us know how it comes out. Good luck! Brad

I'll pick some up tonight. I had someone else build my engine but I believe I was the one that installed the timing cover and I don't remember using any sealant. Better safe than sorry. Thanks! Brad

What sealant did you use?

I didn't think thread locker held things that tight. I thought it was more for vibration type environments.

On the Carter B&B carburetors the choke and throttle plates are held in place by 3/48 brass screws that are notched on the ends and then spread so they won't back out. I've found replacement brass screws from the local hardware store obviously without the notches but I'm wondering if some kind of loctite thread locker would work just as well? Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks! Brad

Actually I was able to source some 3/48 x 3/8" brass screws at a local hardware store here in Pasadena. I was kind of surprised by that! Brad

Able to answer my own question. The screw size is 3/48.

Thanks Carl. Their kits have 22 in them which means I'd be buying 6 more than I need. I'm going to end up buying the stainless ones because everything on mine is already painted and I don't want to have to paint each one of the bolt heads individually. Guess I need to get some on order! Thanks! Brad

Anyone know the screw size for the little brass screws that hold the choke plate to the shaft? Also how about a source for these screws?! Thanks! Brad

Since my truck is about 1800 miles away right now, just how many of these bolts are used to fasten the fenders to the truck bed? Brad

I was curious whether the price was keeping you from having more of an interest. I wish I had the time to haul it for you but with our move to Kentucky every spare minute is used up. We would likely drop the price to something less than $500 if you could figure out how to get it to MN. Brad

If the price was right would it be worth it to you?!

Craigs List might be the easiest choice for us. Our move to Kentucky happened a lot sooner than we had planned so we're kind of scrambling to unload things. I thought I had it traded for a bunch of work on one of our motorhomes but the guy's wife didn't want "no old vehicle parked in the driveway" . Thanks! Brad

Sorry for the post but I'm trying to figure out how to market my wife's 1963 Dodge Custom 880 4 door. Its definitely in restoreable condition. It has a 383 big block with pushbutton transmission. Its reasonably solid, all glass is intact and we have spare glass and a lot of spare interior components. Not really sure we want to go the eBay route at this point. We're moving from Arkansas to Kentucky and need to move it as soon as we can. I would imagine she would let it go for $500 or less. Any thoughts on the best place to post this? Thanks! Brad

Thanks guys, I'll try all three and see what's available. Brad

Is there a source for the throttle shaft on a Carter B&B carburetor? One of my carbs has a very worn shaft and I'd like to replace it before installing on the engine. Thanks! Brad

What item

The center green hole is for the stud used for the heat riser spring. The stud out of the original manifold screws right in. I'm guessing the rear hole is for a vacuum wiper connection. Don't have any idea what the larger front hole would be for. Brad

Ed, No, the alternator will keep the engine running even without a battery. Many times I've disconnected the battery on a vehicle and left it run for a long time. I know one farmer who doesn't use a battery on his tractor. Just uses jumper cables from his pickup, starts the tractor and disconnects the jumper cables. No battery on the tractor at all. (and its NOT a diesel ) The generator on the other hand has to have a battery present to produce voltage. What you're describing on your Dakota sounds like a bad or weak alternator. The electronics on these newer vehicles use a lot of current so if the alternator was weak and not charging enough to keep up with load demands the vehicle would stall. Brad

A generator does not work the same as an alternator. On a vehicle that has a generator if you disconnect the battery the engine will die where as on a vehicle with an alternator you can disconnect the battery and the engine will stay running. Easiest way to see if its charging is to check with a volt meter. If you have about 13.3 vdc or more your generator is working just fine. If you have under 13 vdc then odds are you need to flash the regulator/generator to get it to start charging. Brad