bkahler

Merle, good suggestion on how to get by without welding. I think I'll give it a try. Thanks! Brad

Merle, Do the plates have to be welded in? Since my cab is already painted I've shied away from considering 3-point belts. However the safety factor keeps bringing me back to rethinking that situation. It would seem that the only reason for welding the plate in is so it doesn't fall if you need to remove the belt loop. If I could get away with just drilling the hole and mounting the belt loop I'd go with 3-point belts. I can't see where welding would provide any extra strength. Any thoughts? Thanks, Brad

Merle, thanks for the info. I've got a Kragens and a Pep Boys within blocks of me so I'll check them out. Brad

Probably a stupid question but are the lamp sockets the same for 6 volt as they are for 12 volt? I like your solution! Brad

Thanks for the replies. I don't as yet have my radiator installed so I had no way of knowing how much space was available between the water pump flange and the radiator core. While I'm not overly interested in modifying my truck to install a fan clutch (at least not until I get it done and driveable first!) I do plan on looking into the options with the various fan clutches that are available on the market just to see if anything might even be close to working. If or when I get around to this effort I'll definitely keep the forums updated. Have any of you heard of or used "flex" fans? I have seen a few where the blades seem to flatten out once the fan speed gets up above a certain rpm. I wonder if a flex fan might be a partial solution to the noice issue. Also I keep thinking back to how variable pitch propellers operate. I would think something like that might be a potential solution as well. Any thoughts?! Thanks! Brad

With all the talk recently about people being worried about over revving their engines while driving. It sounds like a lot of the concern is based on what might be the sound of the engine fan turning at 3200 rpm. I know on our motorhome it definitely makes a difference. You can certainly tell when the clutch kicks in and the fan is engaged. It sounds like the engine down shifts when the fan clutch kicks in. So what I'm wondering is if anyone has fitted a fan clutch with fan in place of the original fixed fan and if so how'd you do it?! Thanks, Brad

Tod, great article and thanks for sharing! Brad

Merle,What I did for the right side of my 51 was to take a left side, heat it up cherry red and then rebend it in a mirror image of what it was. Looks like it was made for the right side! Brad

Kevin, where were the build cards located on these trucks? When I dismantled mine I didn't find anything. Thanks! Brad

Larry, Could you post a picture of your tester? We have an old headlight alignment machine but I don't remember what it is and I'm about 1500 miles from it right now. Thanks! Brad

I tend to agree with Tim's answer, the driver was expected to exit from the passenger side. Speaking of door locks, I bought my 51 B3B from Ketcum Idaho about 11 years ago and it had a non original ignition switch. I picked up an original ignition switch (with key) from a junk yard in Wisconson several years ago and today I took them both to a locksmith who informed me they were keyed the same What are the odds of that . Brad

Thanks for the link. I looked at Steele last week but for some reason didn't find them. I was going to order from them online until I realized they don't use a secure order system. I'll call tomorrow and order. Hopefully since they are 3 times the price compared to Roberts and Bernbaums they are 3 times better! Thanks again, Brad

After I failed to get the dust seals installed on my pedals without tearing them (originally from Roberts) I attempted to order a pair from Bernbaum's. They told me they were out of stock and were waiting for their first order from "overseas" where they are now having them made. This really concerns me because with my other hobby which is Triumph sports cars a lot of the rubber pieces are being reproduced "overseas" and are of very poor quality. I then tried to place an order with Roberts and was informed they were out of stock and to try again in 8 weeks . This leads me to believe they are probably getting their seals from the same place Bernbaum's is. I guess I need to check with Vintage Power Wagon to see if they have any in stock. Anyone know of another source? Brad

Joe, its always been my understanding that the lip closest to the shaft points in the direction where the oil/grease is. Below is a very crude drawing of what I'm trying to say. oil ---|<|---|wheel hub Hope this makes sense . Brad

So I'm not alone in losing things that I "thought" I had bought! My notes from 1997 indicated that I bought two of the front parking lenses for my B3B. Darned if I can find the receipt or the lenses . I must be getting old..... Brad

There are lots of trucks available on ebay that would be great candidates for rodding. In this day an age finding a truck that is mostly complete and stock is a rare find. I like modified trucks as much as anyone but also I realize that finding good restoration candidates is drying up fast. The sad part is Dodge trucks don't command big dollars like the Ford's and Chevy's do. You have a big decision to make, which ever decision you make will be right for you. For myself I'd leave it stock or sell it to someone who wants an all original and use the proceeds to buy a good candidate for rodding. Keep us posted on your decision! Brad

Brian, I've got Don's book and had previously looked at that picture. Unfortunately its not the same block. Your earlier comment about using the oil galley tap by drain tap makes sense. I can see where the oil line has a splice connection prior to heading into the cab. I think I have a piece of tubing that has that splice so I'll try and dig it out tonight. The next question is how does it connect to the gauge, is it hard piped all the way to the gauge or is there any kind of rubber flex line installed? Thanks,! Brad

I seem to be missing the oil pressure line(s) from the gauge to the block. I can't even seem to find any pictures of what they should look like. Would someone be able to provide me with some detailed photos of the oil feed lines. Also, if one of you happens to have these lines as spares I'd be interested in buying them! Thanks, Brad 1951 B3B 218 engine

Greg, I had been planning on using a relay but it just dawned on me that I don't have one. I guess its time to start watching ebay to see what kind of vintage looking 6 volt lighting relays show up. Who knows I might get lucky and find a good one! Thanks! Brad

Reg, thanks for the leads! I liked the looks of the second switch better so did a buy-it now. Now to decide where to mount the switch . There is an outside chance that I will have the engine running sometime in February. I've been making very slow but steady progress on reassembling the truck. However I've accepted a transfer to work in Richmond Kentucky and we'll be moving there later this year. From the end of February through October I'm going to be traveling back and forth to Pasadena CA for the design phase of the project. This means that I will have moved the truck while disassembled From Lincoln to Dallas to Little Rock to Richmond. Surprisingly in all that time I seem to only have misplaced a couple of items. Thanks again! Brad

Thanks for the replies. I checked the left overs from the engine gasket set and there was no cork seal there. Measuring the distributor outer housing it appears to be 1" and the overall opening size in the block is 1-3/8" which means a 1" o-ring with 3/16" wall should do the trick. I'll pick one up this week and see how it works. Thanks! Brad

I picked up a couple of the optional factory fog lights over the holidays unfortunately they did not come with the switch assembly. Any suggestions on where I might be able to locate a switch that would work that also looked similar to the original configuration? Thanks, Brad

Well, I tried soap and then tried the hair dryer trick with no success. I now have two torn dust seals. I bought the first two from Roberts. I think I'll check out the dust seals from Steele Rubber and see if they are any better. I'll keep ya posted......... Brad

Nice little video! Thanks for sharing. Brad

You can buy studs that screw into the hubs in place of bolts and then you buy the correct lug nut to fit your application. I did this for a trailer we have that used bolts instead of studs originally. Do a google search on replacement wheel studs or go to your local napa parts store and browse through their stud catalog. Good luck! Brad