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bkahler

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Everything posted by bkahler

  1. Reg, I may be wrong here but I don't think its the brake line size but more the bore of the cylinders. The size of the brake line has to do with how much effort it takes to stop. The size of the cylinders should define how much pressure per square inch is applied to the brake shoes. Like I said I may be wrong but it would be something to check out. The other thing you could do is something my wife would also like to do, install missle launchers under the front of your truck and use them to clear the road as needed..... Brad
  2. Greg, would it be possible to get a copy of the instructions? Scanned in as jpg or pdf would be great if you can do it. Thanks! Brad
  3. Look for NAPA part number 815-1000. Its the 1-3/4" size rubberized wire wound heater duct. My local area could only come up with one box of it which is 6' in length. Be sure to specify the 6' box and not by the foot. Only problem is it seems to be very hard to find. I need one more box myself. There is also a supplier that has been mentioned on the forums before but for the life of me I can't find their information. A while back someone had asked whether anyone had purchased from them before and there were positive responses. Sorry thats the best I can do! If you find more than a couple of boxes of the NAPA hose get one for me and I'll pay you back Brad
  4. Merle, the welting between the front fender and the nose was a thin strip of butyl rubber. From what came off of my 51 it appeared to be about 1/16" thick and matched the shape of the front portion of the fender. I'm still looking for a source for butyl rubber that thick for my truck. Brad
  5. Mosport is a great track! My wife vintage races a Triumph Spitfire and we made the trip from Dallas to Mosport in 2003 for the June vintage race. Great track, great people, a lot of fun and it was a LONG haul from Texas to Toronto Brad
  6. Charlie, the only thing I'd be worried about with your arrangement would be the amount of belt wrap you have on the compressor. With so little wrap I'd be afraid the pulley would slip under load. Just a thought.......... Brad
  7. Dave, I have a floor shift boot you can have. I bought it before I realized I didn't need it. My 51 has the dash mounted parking brake. I am in need of a floor shift boot however. Do you have contact info for Mac's ? Thanks, Brad
  8. Don, The B series pickups have the butterflly hoods not the alligator style of hood as used on the cars. Brad
  9. Dave, its not in the B series book its in the book that describes all of the dodge trucks from 1918-1971. Chapter 11 is dedicated to rebuilding the bed. The title is Dodge Pickups History and Restoration Guide 1918-1971. Well worth buying. Brad
  10. Merle, its been so long since I took my truck apart (10 years ) that I don't remember the geometry of the inner to outer fender, etc. Knowing that I can do this sure makes me feel a LOT better One of my big worries had always been how to adjust those darn valves "hot" like the manual says. Dang, now I can't wait to get the fenders on just so I can try it :D Thanks, Brad
  11. Don, You got me on this one. How in the world do you set the valve lash with the engine running on these flat head engines? Even with no fenders on my truck and just the exhaust system in place I don't see how you could get your hands down in there without getting burned to a crisp The pilot-house pickups don't have the access panels that the cars do which would make it even tougher once the fenders are on. Inquiring minds want to know Thanks, Brad
  12. Dave, I checked both distributors that I have to see if either might have had the screw down in the bowels.....unforunately none were found Oddly both screws were different but still needed a straight bladed screw driver to loosen. Hmmm, maybe I need to find a dozen of these little screws... Thanks, Brad
  13. Normspeed, I bought a set of Sears ignition wrenches a few years back specifically to work on this truck, then I find that it doesn't have the right screw . If you come across one in your little gold mine that would be great! Thanks, Brad
  14. Ed, you're correct. I hadn't thought about finding one at a swap meet. We're going to the one in Arlington Tx this fall, if I haven't found one by then I'll check there. The area where the screw is located is to tight for one of those L shaped screw drivers. That was my first thought to use one of those but its a no go. I'll locate one some where, who knows I might have something appropriate in my junk screw box! Thanks, Brad
  15. I'm in the process of reassembling my distributor and noticed that the screw used to clamp the points tension spring is a regular straight bladed screwdriver type screw. There is no way to use a screw driver in side there and taking the plate out just to replace the points seems absurd. The service manual shows a hex head screw so obviously someone in the past has replaced the hex head with a regular screw. I haven't yet checked the hardware stores to see if they have something that will work but will do so probably early next week. Barring the hardware store not having one would anyone know of a source for these screws? Thanks! Brad
  16. Your comments jogged my memory about my first few months of using Firefox. I also had connection problems from time to time but if I hit retry it would eventually connect. I'm not sure what cured it but that problem has been gone for a long time. I also use Thunderbird and while its not the best email program around as far as I'm concerned its got Oulook beat all to heck Brad
  17. HA! Same thing happened to me I had called up Vintage Power Wagon and ordered a clutch for a 1/2 ton B3B and they sent a 10" clutch and pressure plate. I tried to fit it to my flywheel and it wouldn't work. I called up and they said I must have had the upgraded 11" clutch. They sent that out and it slipped right in. Well......maybe not right in, as I had to manhandle the darn thing for a while to get it to slip into place Mine came from the factory with a 4-speed transmission instead of the 3-speed column shift version, that might have had something to do with it as well. Sorry, I don't remember the number of splines that my transmission had. Brad
  18. Dave, Were the u-joints the spring clip type or the bolt/clamp type? My B3B has one of each on it and I don't as yet know if they are the same u-joint or if each is different. Thanks! Brad
  19. Where are you located?
  20. Check out http://www.southwestswapmeet.com/ Unless something strange happens we're planning on being there. Might even set up a booth. My wife has a bunch of mopeds we're going to try and sell. Brad
  21. Henry, The 1951 thru 1953 models used the large squarish Job Rated badge in the center of the grille. Only 1951 had the stainless one. The Korean war forced the manufacturers to cut back on the use of stainless so the 1952 & 1953 models were painted pot metal. Brad
  22. Richard, My wife and I went to Pate as well and for the most part were disappointed. As you mentioned EVERYTHING that was ford or chevy was outlandish in price. We didn't even see to much mopar stuff. I don't think we even finished walking around the place. The one that is held in Arlington has always been better. We plan on hitting the next one thats held there. Brad
  23. Richard, The bracket is made of of two U shaped clamps that have ears on them. I can send pictures later today if you would like. The ears bolt to the dash. Brad
  24. Just spotted a split manifold on ebay, 280113191102. I wouldn't say its the prettiest that I've seen but it might work. Brad
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