bkahler

Sometimes you do what you have to do in order to make something work again. I got lucky, back in 97 when I was scavenging parts for my truck, I came across a really nice original for $30 and bought it. You now have a working parking brake so it's time to move on to the next task

The doors are heavy. Even without the window parts installed they are heavy and awkward. You should have no problem loosening just the bottom to move the lower half of the door out or in. It may take a little bit of smacking the door with a rubber mallet to get it to move. After x number of years it's going to be stiff and not want to move. Good luck

If I'm not mistaken there is a captive plate inside the A post that has threaded holes. In the picture below you can see the lower hinge that slides into the A post. You insert the bolts and tighten down as needed. You should be able to slide the plate in and out to some degree for alignment purposes. Don't be surprised if things seem to be frozen in place. In this case a rust penetrant like PB Blaster or Kroil is your friend I would have taken a picture of the A post but the truck is at the painters..... Just found a picture of the upper hinge mounting, it's the same as the lower. Found a shot of the lower hinge Brad

David, Yes to all of your questions. I filled out 5106, provided my tax ID (aka ssn unless you own a business and have a business ID) and bank account #s. The requested info seemed over the top to me but after talking to my bank, talking with Ricardo and reading wayfarer's response to my question I decided it was worth the risk. From what I understand it was just pretty much a normal international business transaction. This purchase process happens thousands of times a day around the world. Ultimately you'll need to decide based on your comfort level. I have no regrets making the purchase and I'm quite satisfied with the kit and the final end product. If you do decide to make the purchase, when performing the replacement of the wheel pay close attention to how you reinstall the pin. The info in this thread should explain everything. I hope this helps you make your decision. Brad

When I was growing up back in the 60s we called them necker knobs....

That is a cool looking wrecker

Heater valve kit

Dang! That was a great trade on your part

Progress is being made on getting the cab painted. No estimate yet as to when it will be done...

I'd measure my truck but it's at the painters right now. If I get over that way, I'll try and remember to measure for you.

Thanks Bill, that answers my question. There are no differences. Now to figure out if I should buy the panel....

What differences are there (if any) between the bed side panels from a 49 truck, compared to a 51 truck? Thanks to Los, I have a possible line on buying a replacement panel for my warped drivers side panel. Are there any structural differences? Hole placement differences, or anything else worth mentioning? I'm guessing they were the same, but I don't have my parts books handy to know for sure. Thanks, Brad

PM sent about your driveshaft.

That's even better news

I had a replacement driveshaft built for my truck by Fleetpride in Lexington. They build driveshafts for all different size vehicles. If you haven't talked with them, I would recommend calling to see if they can deal with the Cleveland style yokes. Cost was $534 for a new custom driveshaft.

This is all good news. It looks like I'll have to switch my 1972 Triumph TR6 over to Historic plates as well. When picking the correct year of manufacture plates, do they have to have the correct county you live in, i.e. Madison? Thanks! Brad

I've seen that statute before but stopped reading after reading this sentence in section 2, ...but not for general transportation. My plans for driving will probably be 90% driving out and about in the country side and the other 10% running to the store on some last second errand. Only on sunny days of course Based on what you're describing I would be crazy not to apply for Historic plates. Thanks for enlightening me! Brad

I'm not on FB so I had a friend look at the listing and he did some research. Apparently, the sellers name is Joshua Favinger and is active on several Dodge forums. I wouldn't mind contacting the guy to get a better idea of what condition of the drivers side panel is. I'm not opposed to replacing the panel if the cost and added hassle of driving to Eastern PA and back can be justified. Dang, I wish that trailer was here in Kentucky! Your explanation makes sense. The truck lived most of its life in Idaho and I'm sure was mostly out in a field somewhere feeding cattle.

Dgrinnan, I've lived in Kentucky for 14 years now and am getting ready to title and license my 51 B3B. I've considered registering it as a vintage/antique truck but from what I read it seems you're quite limited in when and where you can drive the vehicle. I like the idea of being able to use a vintage plate but don't want the driving restrictions. Am I missing something here? Thanks! Brad Richmond, KY

Matt, previously I used one of the flaring tools like you showed previously and it was a struggle, for every joint. I did several vehicles that way. I thought I was done with my B3 and then I had to change a couple of brake line pipes and I finally just said screw it and bought the one I mentioned. I saw a Youtuber, I think it was Watch Wes Work, who used one of them and gave it a reasonable review. I found it extremely easy and fast to use. I didn't want to remove one of the lines from the truck and this new flaring tool made that a simple job. I think you'll be please with it. Brad

I can pretty much guarantee the outcome would be worse than expected! I make for a passable mechanic most of the time, but I do know my limitations and bodywork is one of them

Unfortunately, I don't really have a lot of time or patience to be honest. If I can find someone that can do a 10-foot job on it I'd be happy.

If you think that panel has a flaw in it, I'd be happy to take it off your hands

Geez, you're doing a darn good job of making me feel jealous.... That panel looks absolutely great! I realize finding a good panel beater shop is going to be difficult. I don't live near a large, populated area where the odds would be better in finding a shop. I know the owner of a local all service repair shop is also a member of an antique car club so I'm thinking of contacting him for suggestions. I took a closer look last night at the top tube and it has a gentle banana shape to it, probably no more than an 1/8" to 3/16" out in the center. The side wall itself is what has taken the most beating. If I remember correctly the tube itself has no real dings or dents. I think it just warped due to the excessive side loads. I'm not sure why the passenger side didn't suffer like the drivers, side but I guess shouldn't complain since I on only have to fix one instead of two panels.

I've dealt with my share of people like this. It's frustrating and can get expensive fast. That's why I pretty much do do all the work that I can on my vehicles. There are some things I don't want/can't do but when possible, I do it myself.