bkahler

Progress is finally starting to take place again I got the truck back from the painter last week and parked it in my shop where I can use the gantry crane to help install the front end sheet metal. So far I've got the front shroud panels installed (loosely) and I hope to have the front nose installed this weekend. I'm also ready to install the doors which may also happen this weekend. Before I get to carried away with the install of the nose I'm considering adding an original hood ornament. My truck didn't come with an ornament originally so I'll have to be drill the appropriate holes. My question is on the back end of the ornament where it sits proud of the hood center section. The front of the ornament fits the curve pretty well but it just sits high in the back. Is this something I need to be concerned about or will the center section conform to the ornament once I start tightening the ornament mounting bolts? I'd hate to drill the holes only to find out it's not going to fit properly.

I made two mods to my leaf springs hoping to soften the ride somewhat. First, I added Pads or Buttons at the ends of the longer springs. The pads are designed to keep the spring tips from digging into the leaf above. The second thing I did was to add Delrin Leaf Spring Liner with Lip between leaves which is suppose to keep them from digging into each other and rusting. I only added Delrin between to the top three leaves on my springs. I didn't add any to the overload springs above the rear springs as I don't plan on ever loading the truck to that extent! I can't say how much these changes might have improved that ride because the truck isn't on the road yet. Brad

I used to have a vented oil cap but I sealed the cap off by using a sheet of rubber up inside the cap so air can't be drawn in through the cap itself. I forget the reason why sealing the cap is the preferred method but every example I came across always had the cap sealed off and an air tube from the oil filler tube up to the clean air side of the air cleaner. Here's some detailed information on adding a PCV system by Dodge.

It's not very clear in my write-up but there are two pieces to the puzzle. The first is the PCV valve from the crankcase to the intake manifold and the second is from the oil filler tube to the clean side of the air filter housing. The crankcase needs fresh air in when air is being sucked out by the intake manifold. Brad

I installed a PCV system on my 51 218. I used a Fram FV333 PCV bought on ebay. Here's a link to my PCV installation,

I'm really like the LED high bay lights. They are a definite upgrade to the 8' fluorescent lights I have installed right now. I've been buying these 100watt High Bay LED Lights from Amazon. Currently they are available in 5-, 6- and 12-unit packs. I've had two of these lights hanging in my barn for over two years now and one in my shop for the same amount of time with zero issues. They are instant on, and I never close the barn doors, so those two have been exposed to high moisture as well as heat. I installed the first one in the shop to see how it would perform over time and I had zero issues and I like the light output. This weekend I installed 6 more in the shop and have 7 more to go. My original fluorescent lights were hanging from small chains and plugged into 120vac duplex outlets. All I had to do was remove the fluorescent hanging figures and plug the new LED lights into the outlet. I got tired of the 8' fluorescent lights burning out every couple of years so hopefully once I get the other 7 lights replaced, I'll be done with that exersize for a long time Brad

Congratulations, let the fun times begin Yes, I converted my 51 B3B to dual master and I'm assuming a 53 B4B would be the same. I believe Dodge changed the MC arrangement on the C series trucks. There are a lot of good restoration threads here, this is my restoration thread. Brad

Nope, there are no coolant leaks past the head bolts. Any rust spots that are present would be due to condensation over the past 25 years of sitting. All of the coolant leaks have been on the thermostat housing, water pump to block gasket, also I noticed the other day the heater control at the back of the head was weeping a little past the stem seal. I purchased a stem seal kit but have been waiting to get the truck back from the painter before repairing. Head bolts have been retorqued 3 times and there was no movement the last time. I don't think they are anything to worry about now. I didn't pick the truck up from the painters this weekend like I had been thinking about doing. I decided to take the time to reorganize my shop to make it easier to move the truck in. I have a gantry crane that I want to use to assist in hanging the doors and the front sheet metal but that required a shop cleaning, plus it gave me the opportunity to replace some overhead fluorescent lights that had burned out. I replaced them with LED high bay lights and am quite pleased with the outcome. The truck should be home by the end of next weekend.

Yes, gasket with sealant top and bottom. My best guess is I just way over did it on sealant. Previously this housing had been a problem and I guess I just got carried away It cleans up with mineral spirits so other than cleaning up the mess I'm not going to worry about it. If things go as planned I should be getting the truck home on Sunday. Need to make room for it in my shop. Previously it had been living in my garage. Plan is to move the truck to the shop and my TR6 to the garage.

I do know when the bolts aren't tight that coolant will seep out of the threads, even with sealer on the threads. I'm pretty sure they are tight. It could be expansion and contraction but the temperatures here this summer have actually been on the mild side. Yesterdays high was 78 and today it's 79. It's gotten as high as about 93 if I remember right. I'm going over tonight or tomorrow to get a closer look.

The engine was clean and no leaked coolant when I parked it in his shop. The truck hasn't been started since I took it over there, probably four months or so.

I just got a text from the painter with this picture attached. He was asking about the brown stuff around the thermostat housing. I've never seen anything like it before. I don't remember what gasket sealer I used when I replaced it last year, but it might have been Permatex #2 non-hardening. I plan on stopping by his shop tonight or tomorrow to get a closer look. I don't see any antifreeze in the picture, so I'm definitely baffled at this point. Brad

I dropped the vent window frames and glass along with the roll up window frames and glass to a local shop for installation. I tried to install one of the vent windowpanes and failed miserably. At that point I realized it was time to let money do the talking I might have them back by this weekend. With luck the cab paint job might also be done this weekend...

Ah, I've seen those before, just didn't know what they were called. Thanks for the clarification.

Flap?

I'm Triumph TR6 fan myself I have a 72 that's also undergoing restoration. I have that book and several other of Don's books. I don't remember if that's his best one or not, but they are all good. Like many guys I look mostly at the pictures, but his documentation style is very good as well.

It sounds like you can't go wrong with this truck. The fact that it is in pieces means there will be a part or two that comes up missing, I don't think you could expect anything less. Missing parts can be found so I wouldn't be too concerned about that. Dodge parts aren't as easy to find as Ford and Chevy parts, but they are out there. I didn't use inner tubes when I put the radial tires on but do plan on doing so the next time I buy new tires. The radials have been on the truck for 2+ years and have zero miles I've had to air them several times and I think I will just feel more comfortable having tubes inside them. The rims are original, and I don't believe they were designed to be used without inner tubes. I could be wrong but that's how I'm looking at it. Brad

Yep, 16" radial tires are readily available. This forum is filled with extremely knowledgeable and helpful people. These old trucks are easy and fun to work on. Good luck

Welcome to the forum If you're planning on driving it, I would suggest buying radial tires for the truck. There's a reason bias tires were replaced by radial tires. Brad

?

Sorry All, I didn't have an opportunity to reply last night. I'm retiring in four weeks and there's a crap full of stuff I need to get done before that happens First, I'll address the condition of the driver bed side panel. It has a banana bow in the top rail that exceeds 1/2" in the center. The side panel is bowed more than that in the center area and that bow extends a good distance towards each end. The truck was likely used as a cattle feeder on a farm in Idaho. The tail gate had been modified with a slide gate to facilitate getting the feed out of the truck. The passenger side isn't damaged nearly as much and I'm willing to give it a try if need be. But the drivers side would likely cost a fair amount to have someone that knows what they're doing try and fix. When the painter suggested making it into a flatbed that got me thinking about options. I already have two pickups and a flatbed would be useful, and different. However, like Dave suggested that would likely cost just as much or more as professionally rebuilding the original side panel. Now however, Mark has offered a pair of panels that look very promising. The pictures looked good, but one issue has me worried. Mark, you mentioned their length being 80". I measured my panels last night and they are 79-1/4" long. Normally would probably not be a problem. However, I've already purchased the metal bed strips from Midwest and they were sized for the 79-1/4" bed length. Depending on where the extra 3/4" is located in your panels then my bed strips might not work. Could you measure the length of the angled strips on the panels? That would help me make a decision on what to do. Thanks! Brad

Los, that flatbed design is the style that I like as well. I don't care for having the view under the bed wide open. Using the existing side panels cut down to the appropriate height would be a great way to achieve the hidden look as well as using the fenders. You've given me something to think about Brad

About time for a quick update. The cab painting is just about done. After buffing, a spot or two was found that needed to be touched up so that means another week or two before I get to bring the truck home. I've been shopping around for replacement bed panels with no luck. The one guy on face book that sounded promising ended up ghosting me. Not sure why people do that, I guess it's just an indicator of how pathetic people can get. With all the issues in trying to find replacement panels, my painter suggested making the truck into a flat bed. That got me to thinking, does anyone have pictures of B3 1/2 ton trucks that are flat beds? I'd like to see what it would look like. I would actually find a flat bed more useful than a high side bed. It's something to consider anyway Brad

Only thing happening on the truck lately is prepping the cab for painting. I stopped by last weekend to take a peek and while he's progressed some it's still a few weeks away from being painted. In the meantime, I'm concentrating on getting a few other projects done or at least farther along. Brad

I think I would just drain the transmission, let it drip for a day or so and then refill with the correct fluid.