austinsailor

Thanks. That finds all but the headlight buckets.

very early sector gear # 261550cx pilotshaft #864008 (probably fluid drive) 2 headlight buckets# 863807 1 headlight bucket 854797 syncronizer #684705 2 pulleys #633734

there was a big local car parts auction here last week, but I was out of town. How could that be lucky? There were some mopar parts nobody wanted, they were going to toss them. my local machinist knows that is my deal, so he grabbed them and gave them to me today. 3.54 ring and pinion, a new synconizer set, a pilot shaft ( next clutch should be easier) a 20's or early 30's sector, and more. I'll post part numbers later and hopefully see what they fit.

thanks for all the feedback. I didn't realize a grand Cherokee was not just a better trim level of a Cherokee. talked to a jeep guywho has several Cherokees and he straigtened me out. I can spend some research time to learn, but I assume the Explorer had our bolt pattern and similar width? my main goal is to get rear disks. with the OD tranny my stock 4.11 isn't ideal, but not bad but brakes are not the best. Around 3.73 is probably right on the money. add disk brakes and I'm ready to cruise the highways. So, are all Explorers equal, or is there more to worry about like the Cherokee?

I did find that chart, but it said they all had drum brakes, so I'm not sure if it's accurate. Another question. I've seen several I could buy cheap enough to remove the axle and part out to get my money back, but most have 250,000 or so miles on them. How many miles would you consider too many to use the axle? I don't hear of many differentials wearing out, so miles on it might not be a big issue if it's working good. Thoughts?

I'm considering the Cherokee axle idea for my 42 Plymouth 2 door. Are there any particular models I should be thinking about or are they all the same sizes? I'm certainly going to be using a disk brake version. Anyone know of a chart on the web showing various options if any exist?

Times - and state laws - have changed. It's now many times that cost. Or it was 2 years ago, and may no longer be possible. I did one through them about 2003, quick, easy and cheap. The last was in the works for $225 about 18 months ago. But before they got it the law changed and they had to find a new method. New quote was $450, I had them send it all back and got a Texas bonded title. Certainly give them a call but if you have one needing a title don't just plan on one day using them. Might not be an option, or may not in the future. Many states have bonded title programs but they may not be well known.

capt neon is lucky. With nothing more than a handwritten bill of sale he can get a title for anything 1949 or older. So a paperless truck there is a silly oversight. They have a similar system for boats without regard to age. I have a lot of boats with a Kansas history.

Laws vary widely from state to state, and some of the reason is local car club's involvement in the legal processes. It can vary from the difficult situation in Wisconson, which doesn't even have a bonded title processes, to Texas, which has a widely used one, to Kansas, where you only need a bill of sale for any car 1949 or older. Missouri has provisions for "Hot rods", which is a vehicle that resembles a vehicle made before 1949, and "Classics", which is a vehicle resembling a vehicle made 1950 to 25 years old. doesn't matter when you put it together or if it is a new "kit car". It only has to meet the safety and emmissions of the year it resembles, not the year you built it. How did this come about? Car club involvement in the political processes. If you don't like the rules, organize, join a club and get active with the guys in the Capitol who have you by the balls

The spring in the cylinder isn't to push the pistons out - the fluid does that. They just keep the rubbers against the pistons.

D2 is a 1936.

Well, Nighthawk, someone said they wished you could tell by looking if they were poisen or not. Well, I, for one, find it more likely to see his eyes from the top, or his tail from the bottom, than to examine the inside of his mouth! There are a couple other ways to tell but they are less obvious and I probably would not get them exactly right, or maybe even backwards. That would be bad, huh? My house is right on the water (16 feet front door to wet) and we have snakes swimming in the water occasionally. I never much worried about them. Not nearly as much bother as the darn geese. www.austinsailor.net

Here's 2 ways to tell. cat's eyes, with a slit - poisen round pupils - not poisen one row of scales to the tip of the tail - poisen two rows of scales from the "vent" (butthole) to the tip of the tail -not poisen Non poisenous snakes can still bite or injure you, don't kill them, just leave them alone. If I tried to kill everything that scarf me, I'd be in a gunfight every day!

what is going on with the fronts has nothing to do with the back. if I understand, you are bleeding with the drums off? if so, they are going to go out until the cups go too far and the fluid spews out. You MUST have the drums on. you really need to have them adjusted before bleeding. You could slide the drums on and not tighten the nut, just snug it if you are insistant on removing it again. you really should do the major adjustment (bottom), put the drum on, then do the minor adjustment (cams on top) then bleed.

I have about 8 assorted generators, all have been sitting for 20+ years. I've made 2 good ones recently, mixing and matching parts, adding only new bearings, and they both worked right off, no polorizing or flashing.

if it were something in the engine it would be rpm dependent, not speed dependent. drive it in first at the same rpm as the vibration would be at 60. No vibration? Not the motor or tranny. I would suspect an out of round tire or slightly bent wheel.

if 42 is the same I have a pair. Conversion in progress. I won't be home till the 20th, but if that works let me know.

I had to put a stack of washers on the one that shifts to the 1-r function to get it to go far enough. I think it's the lower of the two. basically that one moves the shift selector between the 2-3 rails to the 1-r rails. when it's always going 2-3 it's not far enough to get out of the 2-3 rail, when it's locking it's catching both and needs to go farther when you pull up on the column shift arm. I changed transmissions and the washers had to go away and the adjustment point was entirely different, so mine was not all in the column shifter part. You could have someone just push the lower lever towards the front ov the car while you shift. push as far as it will go, it should go in. that will confirm the problem and give you an idea how far out of adjustment it is.

I may sound like a broken record because I've mentioned this before. But, if you have collector car insurance make real sure you're covered if you pull a trailer. Most don't and you won't find the exclusion in your policy because they put it in the application. you probably won't remember checking the "no" box about pulling a trailer when you filled out the application years ago, but they consider it getting the policy by fraud and it's void from inception. this includes Hagerty, Grundy and others. I hope I'm not a pest, but it's not well known and if it saves one person from a disaster it's worth it.

I get asked frequently what year both my '40 dodge four door and my rusty '48 b1b are. I've never been asked what they are worth, or what I paid for them. But, the most unusual question was asked recently when I stopped at the light on the exit ramp on the way to home depot. I was driving my original rust barn find b1b when the bum at the corner with the homeless sign asked "Where'd you get that??" "About 30 miles from north of here" says I. After about 30 seconds of trying to figure out what to say next, he says "I recon I should give YOU a dollar, huh?" I'm sure his new car was parked nearby. He must have thought it was all I could afford and had a bit of guilt.

Is there any reason you couldn't use a similar axle and method on one of our cars? The point would be to gain the gear ratio and rear disk brakes.

It looks like 71-72 is pre-emmissions stuff, and also has provisions for water heat. it's hard to say for sure from what I can see from my Internet research, but it sounds like the hot water hookup is on the carbs, not the manifold. this is sounding possible. It appears that they are 1 3/4" dia, so from the charts, 3 of them should be in the ballpark. I need to find one I can hold in my hand and think it through. I like it!

looks like 3 from a 71 or 72 240z would be ideal. would there be an advantage between mounting them over the motor on long tubes like above, or short tubes straight into the ports?

like these? eBay Item #: 130516040090

yes, that is one I've seen. I wonder if there are bigger one that would work better? normal manifolds with no heat have problems. there is no heat on these when used on motorcycles, or on small sports cars, as far as I know. I wonder why one type needs it and another doesn't?