austinsailor

When you say seals and bearings, I assume you mean the ones on axles behind the backing plates. Buy or borrow a slide hammer and use the fingers to pull things out. Makes it a very simple job. I drove mine in with a big socket, but the seals I got with the NAPA brand were flimsy and the springs popped off with the shock of hitting the socket to drive them in. I'd like to hear of a better way myself. Slowly pressing them in would be much better, but I'm not sure what to use.

The motor swap is coming along. Last night I pulled apart the Fargo motor. It's a shame water got in one cylinder, as the crank is in good shape, still std size and it's been bored .010 over with no ring ridge. But I guess water seeped in through one spark plug, as it had rust and the piston was stuck. I'll probably rebuild it later. I needed the clutch and pressure plate, so I disassembled the motor, lifted out the crank and took off the pressure plate. Clutch and pressure plate are in good shape. I found that the bell housing had to be swapped as well. The b1b had a 3 speed, the Fargo 1 ton has a 4 speed. The hole for the pilot shaft is bigger and the bolts are much farther apart. However, everything else works once I swapped the housings. Pilotshaft is the same size, too. I'll probably pull the steering box and go through it before putting the motor back. It has a strange feel, although it's not that loose. Probably dry and needs seals. Then, I'll just have to weld tabs on the motor mounts and it should bolt up. Oh, a question. Both motors have the rubber on the front motor mounts falling apart. They are loose from motor. How do you guys fix that? Is a new mount available? At first glance, it looks like there are bolts out the top and bottom and it's a replaceable item. Are they available?

I thought they might, but they have to go towards the flywheel and there isn't enough room to get it free. I can't get inside to push it out.

Had to work this morning, but this afternoon I pulled the transmission and engine. I plan to use the pressure plate (clutch cover to the kids here) and clutch disk on the 23" b1b motor that is going back in. Problem is, the Fargo is pretty stuck, making it difficult to get the pressure plate off. So, I tried to pull the bellhousing, but one pin is too tall to let it slip off. So, I'll pull the whole crank, flywheel and pressure plate, then I can get to it. Got the pan off, but - the darn crankshaft pulley is 1 7/8". not the 1 13/16 like my others. I'll have to buy a socket tomorrow, then keep going. I did find that my hoist (dump) assembly has the oil tank built in (saves $100 or so), so I only need a pump and shaft. Bad news - a new pump is about $500, then I'll probably need hoses. Other bad news is the differential has a tremendous amount of slack in it. I guess I'll pull it out and see just what I'm dealing with. I might be in the market for new one.

I'm going to build another one of these days. I'd be real interested in hearing more about yours, as would many others, I'm sure. Your porting was much more drastic than mine. I was a bit afraid of going too far, this being my first try and having no way to know how thick the metal was. I might saw up a block just to get an idea of what is there for the next time. There is bound to be a junk block around. Thanks for posting those pictures.

would anyone have the napa #s for the timing chain and gears for the 24" block? Are they the same as the 23" block? thanks, Gene

Well, that is where I got the truck - I guess I should have figured it out before I went and got it, huh? I suspect it's the same as a dodge one ton of the same time. I've got to find a pump for the hoist, too. The guy I bought it from told me the shaft was taken off of it. I finally pulled it out of the mud yesterday and started on it this afternoon. Crawled under to see what was what, and they took the pump along with the shaft. Darn. Pulled the front clip off this afternoon, and the floorboards. Took about 1 1/2 hours, it'll make it much easier to pull the motor tomorrow. I'm going to do something strange. Pull the 25" Fargo motor and stick in a 23" motor out of a 49 b1c. Fargo needs overhauling, the 23" motor runs like a sewing machine. I'll overhaul the Fargo one of these days when time and finances allows. Oh, and as to the wheel, we just decided tonight we're going to Back to the 50's in Minneapolis in Jne, and probably to Little Falls the same week, so if anyone could shuttle a wheel.......

I need a wheel for a spare for my '51 1 ton Fargo. Single rear wheel, 6 bolt. I know some 1 tons had duals where the holes were dimpled different directions, these are flat. Split rim 16". any around to be bought?

the found them in Virginia and Washington. $8. They're on the way. bearings are $15, they'll be here tomorrow. Thanks guys.

I'd suggest asking lots of questions, too, and making sure of parts numbers. I notice that they list the same u-joint as a longer range than is the same. My '48 uses a Cleveland U-joint, as does the big trucks. By 1950, they no longer used these. Most of their listings show the same joint going across many years, like 40 to 53.

Thanks. It never ceases to amaze me how much information is available here. Gene

Anyone know the part number or source for brushes on our generators? I can easily find the tension and other info, bearings have number on them. Tomorrow I;m going to be looking for brushes and having some numbers would sure help. I have 3 of them I'm reviving. I need 2, and would have a spare then. Generator model is GDZ4801, which is probably the same from 40 or so into the 50's.

Check prices before ordering. I just got a set of exactly what you need from my local NAPA, who usually treat me very well. I didn't ask about price, since everything else had been about the same as I could get on the web. Bernbaum has it for about $90 or so, it was $200 at NAPA, and they give me dealer cost! Gene G.

Here's you another option, probably much better. North Carolina also has bonded titles, which looks like a good way for you to go. Look here: http://www.ncdot.org/dmv/vehicle_services/registrationtitling/vehiclesBonded.html#Bond%20Requirements I've done a couple bonded titles in Texas, and have checked on them in Missouri, but never had to follow through, always found another way. They will go by book value, which is probably for a vehicle worth much more than yours, probably near the $10K range, which would put the bond at $300+, but still cheaper than a lot of other options. I seem to recall there are 4 levels, like show quality, good, something else and parts. They'd go with the next to highest, probably. That is what Texas does, regardless of condition.

You are correct, I looked it up and they do require it to be notarized. I didn't think anyone required it anymore. Unlike some other states, you must also have a NC drivers license to register. In Texas, you must register your cars before you are allowed to get a license. In Mo. they don't care one way or the other. In Missouri you could just walk in and get a title with what you have plus the ID/OD inspection, which would require it to be in the state for at least a few minutes. If you want to haul it here we can get it done quickly and easily! No insurance required, no safety inspection, no license purchase required. Title only. Probably not worth the effort, though. But, seriously, it can be done here with no problem. Check the other states near you, you might be able to do it in one much closer. Usually you'd have to furnish a mailing address to receive the title within the state, but I'm sure someone here could do that for you. If you want to haul it here we'll get it done. Oh, if the title is dated, you'd pay the penalties, which max at about $125, in addition to the normal apx $20 or so sales tax.

>Yea, I think all the new gaskets have the bump since it is universal to >both internal and external bypass. I just got an overhaul set from NAPA last week and it had the non-bump gasket, which is what I wanted.

If you find a notary who'll notarize something signed by someone who they've never met and isn't there, you can all go to jail. I don't know of a state that requires a title to be notarized these days. Most have gotten rid of that requirement. That is the first thing you need to ask about, the requirement of being notarized, not lie to her about what you have. If it's dated, most states will require penalties to be paid for not getting it done in a certain amount of time, usually 20 to 30 days. In Missouri it's a max of about $120, I've never let it happen in Texas, where I also register vehicles. The other thing most states will require is an ID/OD inspection, maybe going by another name, verifying SN, etc, for vehicles from another state.

I'm only a year out, but mine hold just fine.

It doesn't take much movement of the truck on the trailer to make a big effect on how it pulls. A couple inches forward or back can really affect handling, so make small adjustments until you get it right. Once you get it right, it'll be like a very heavy load, but not affect you steering very much at all. Braking, however, is another story. If you get it steering quite nicely, you can get lulled into forgetting just how much you have behind you until you get into a panic situation. So, keep your distance and use you engine for baking as much as possible. I pull with a one ton Dodge diesel dually, run 70 - 75 with 30,000 lbs gross, sometimes more. You'll have to be a bit more careful.

And I thought $3.09 sucked!

Well, you learn something new every day. I went in this morning and re-measured the pistons. My numbers were correct, so I asked the fellow who owns the shop to help me understand what I was missing. Turns out, the compression height will vary by manufacturer, and other things. He said that the height will often be higher on replacement pistons, and there was a good reason, but he didn't recall just what it was. Anyone know? And, having a .020 higher piston won't be a problem, as the head gasket is .075, so all you'll get is a bit more compression. More compression is not a bad thing. Thanks to Kevinb71 for the link to the piston chart, that helped a bunch.

I've revived 2 trucks in the past few years, each had sat for 30 years or so. I put old formula Rotella in both, ran them for a time, and both quit smoking after a short while and run fine. The '48 B1B I drive frequently does not smoke, but does have oil burning smell and consumes some oil. However, it had about 30 lbs per cylinder compression before starting the first time. I was actually surprised it would start, and more surprised it runs rather well. I do not know what the compression is now. I will probably put rings and bearings in it in the near future, but I believe no other oil would have done any better. I have a drum of old formula Rotella (about $7 a gallon) I'll use until I run out. I'm thinking of getting another drum to delay the problem. My personal opinion is that you can't make it worse by getting the crud out of the rings and freeing them up.

And I think it may be me. The charts show about what the fellow with the Canadian dodge measured on his old pistons, not what I did on the new ones. I need to re-check, maybe have the machinist look over my shoulder, and maybe use his calipers, not mine! More info to come.

No doubt they are mopar. They are correct for the motors I have, We're re-measuring at both ends to make sure we haven't made a mistake. I'm measuring in inches, he in MM, but it seems different. I don't know if specs at this level are available anywhere. If I had time, I'd tear down my Fargo to see how it matches up, but that won't be soon.

Well, I learned something this week. A person on this board wanted a set of the 3 3/8 pistons for his Canadian Dodge, which has 3 3/8 bore. As a check, I measured the piston pin diameter and the distance from the pin to the top, fully expecting them to match. Surprise - they are not the same. I guess the Canadian version used a different rod length. Now, I'm not so sure they'll fit my Fargo, either. I guess I need to tear it down to see. I may not be able to use a set either. Bummer.