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Everything posted by austinsailor
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get one that has a much bigger core. There is one that has a 4 sided core, like the outside of a box, that blows heat out all 4 sides. Mine came out of my 3 ton.
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one is a 2 dr ht, Spot Fury, I think, the hot rod one with the desireable console and no rust, minimum dents, 318. Other is a 4 dr ht, 318 and some rust. Both torque flutes. He was disposing of his dad's car lot ( buy a junker here, finance it here, find it here again in a month when it's repossessed) when he died. I convinced him those two were better not crushed, somebody would pay more than the crusher, but the last 18 months have proved me wrong. I thought sure someone would want a dent and rust free 2dr ht to build a muscle car. Not yet. I bought a 71 Fury 3 for $300, sold the drivetrain for$525, body for $180 at the crusher, and I got the wire wheels I wanted. Guess I can do the same with these. Ed, there would be a front clip he could use, probably not much else. But I'd have two axles to work with.
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I'm still gathering a few parts for my '42 2 door sedan and was thinking of a different rear axle. The original rear axle with the 4:11 would probably work ok, but I'm sure there are better choices. I have the chance to get 2 '66 Furys pretty cheap, actually can make a few hundred just stripping and crushing if it came to that. Rears should be 8 3/4 with bigger brakes than the 42. Width is listed as less than an inch different. Ratio is unknown, but probably in the 3:55 range. With a 251 with speed parts, high compression and 3 speed od transmission, I'm wondering if this is something I should do? Thoughts?
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I first wondered if mine could have been in this picture - then I realized they still had chrome on these. Mine had silver paint.
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Thanks, I posted some questions. I hadn't found that forum before.
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Mine is a little bit rougher (a stuck motor is a stuck motor, so that is equal), and neither had a title, but I only paid $150! For $2350 I can patch a couple bigger rust spots instead of little rust spots.
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As I mentioned in another post, I am probably going to look at a 55 Desoto with an overdriive, a parts car for sure. I'm wondering what parts will interchange with what. I do know the Desoto hemi is a different motor than the Dodge or Chrysler hemis. How about bell housings and transmissions? Is the transmission interchangeable like the earlier cars? What will bolt to the motor, any of the bell housings or just the ones from a Desoto? I do know that the Desoto hemi is the least desirable of the 3 due to the lack of parts. It has an air conditioner, aftermarket of the era, if I understand correctly. Assuming it's not all trash, is there any value to a '50's air unit? Being a 4 door, there is probably not a lot of value in much of the sheet metal. I'm trying to get a feel of what I might be able to salvage and come out ok if I drag it home. Any thoughts?
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We're a little north of Columbia, out in the boondocks. I don't have a trailer with me this time, but often do and sometimes run empty. I could probably get it to Columbia sometime in the next 6 months. It doesn't look like it should be towed, or I could just hook on this trip.I'm running empty with a Durango.
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I'm not certain, but I think it's the inside part of the aftermarket air conditioner.
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Rockport. At least here we can untie and go anywhere in the world. That wasn't the case when we lived on it in Lake Travis. I'm trying to decide if a rusty 55 Desoto, no title, body not usable, but with a free hemi that will fire and an overdrive is worth looking at for $1000. Hmmm.... And what will I do with it?
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I have a laptop that the left mouse button on the keyboard doesn't have any effect, I think just what you are describing. A corded mouse works just fine. Biggest problem I had was finding one. Best buy didn't have any anymore. I solved it by adding the corded mouse and giving it to my manager and letting him use it! I got another one that works.
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I'm sitting on our boat in Texas, didn't even get to bring an old one to drive around this time. Been here a week and a half got a week to go. All my stuff is in Mo. I did locate a 55 Desoto with an unstuck Hemi which fires and has an od tranny. I might have to check it out on the way home.
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I'm still bored - here are more: A pilot house, low side bed probably worth the asking price of $300: http://joplin.craigslist.org/cto/2768163422.html 4wd power wagon, $1200 http://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/2675425763.html Now, this one isn't anything I'd want, or probably anyone here would want, but it's such an unusual thing I have to put it in. Who would put a Ferd 300 6 and a C4 in a 50 Plymouth?? http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/2731977417.html No pictures, but if you want a 50 Chrysler New Yorker, it might be worth calling about http://louisville.craigslist.org/pts/2733771932.html Looks like a nice 49 Plymouth, but no price: http://louisville.craigslist.org/cto/2759147527.html Not my cup of tea, but here's a 413 with transmission for one of your hot rods for $250: http://fayar.craigslist.org/pts/2684128762.html Dodge medowbrook wagon, might b e worth looking at: http://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/2719771872.html 47 1 1/2 ton side dump: http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2727607809.html
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I'm bored out of my mind today and searching craigslist. Here are a few things someone here might find interesting: I'm only posting the ones I would consider if I was looking, not the overpriced junk! 51 and a 52 Plymouth wagons: http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/cto/2690371910.html P15? coupe http://waco.craigslist.org/cto/2730265433.html '42 Plymouth 2 door (not mine) http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/2767589128.html 52 plymouth 2 dr. hard top (don't see many of these) http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/2728461699.html 31 Plymouth sedan - priced high, but interesting: http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/2736947553.html Another HT, a 53, high but nice: http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/2743225718.html 50 "Dodge Desoto", partially disassembled, but look worth the $800 even though it's not the rare Dodge Desoto, but the plain jane Desoto: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/2675999110.html 48 Desoto Limo - I've seen it before, I think the price is coming down: http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/2718158572.html
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Here's a wrecked 3 window coupe for sale in Austin (well, Belton, 50 miles north). Looks like it was a pretty nice car until someone hit it. Listed as being parted, but it looks like a good one to repair. http://austin.craigslist.org/ctd/2754020855.html
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Vapor lock has been talked about for some time. Here's a snippet from the Gus Stores from the Model Garage (Popular Science) June 1932 edition: "Score's even again," Gus laughed. "You're right, Jeff. Clogged carburetors certainly aren't the most frequent cause of road stops, especially in cars less then two or three years old. Last year we had more trouble with 'vapor lock' than we did with clogged carburetors." "I never had that. What is it?" "You can blame last year's troubles with vapor lock on good gas," Gus explained. "A few years ago the gas was so poor that automobile had other heating gadgets to get the gasoline to vaporize at all. Then came overproduction in gas and refiners faced such stiff competition that they improved the quality of their products. Automobile manufacturers have been making better motors, too, and last year the more efficient and hotter-running motors, combined with gasoline that turns into gas at a lower temperature than the old stuff, brought a new trouble we'd never bumped into before. "You'd be bearing along as at a good smart pace on a warm summer day and all of a sudden the motor would begin to spit and blow back just as it does when water gets into the gas line. Sometimes the motor would stop dead. Then after you'd spent a few minutes trying to find the trouble, you'd step on the starter and she'd tick over as though nothing had happened. As first they blamed it on water or dirt in the gas line, but when it kept on happening, the engineers got busy and found that when the motor got just so hot, the gasoline in the pipe line near the carburetor started to boil. Sometimes it would boil in the carburetor bowl itself. Then nothing but gas vapor went into the carburetor with the air and the mixture got too thin to burn." "By golly!" said Tim excitedly, "Maybe all that clogged carburetor trouble I've been having is vapor lock. I put in a new gasoline pipe last year and I remember I made it shorter than the old one by running it alongside the exhaust pipe. I'll move it over to the other side of the at the frame today." "Don't bother," Gus advised. "Just move it away a couple of inches and wrap it with asbestos. That'll keep the heat out of it. That's the way the new cars are fixed to get rid of vapor lock - a little heat insulation where it's most needed. Sometimes a few sheets of asbestos slipped in around the carburetor bowl will be worth while if it's real close to part of the exhaust manifold.
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I was reading Plymouth's history last night on Alpar (however it's spelled) and they mentioned that in 1930 Plymouth went to fuel pumps instead of vacuum tanks. If it hadn't been for the answers I got here I wouldn't have had a clue what they were talking about!
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I opened my present to find a pair of 2bbl progressive Holly's and linkage I need to finish my 251 hot rod motor for my '42 Plymouth. Now I just need time to put it all together.
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48 panel sheet metal on an S-10 chassis?
austinsailor replied to austinsailor's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
WK is inside, runs, but needs doors assembled and hood finished, brakes and wiring installed. Got sidetracked on a couple boat restorations, and a '42 Plymouth ready to assembly. Work is taking too much time - basically, not enough available time. I think work needs to go! Got a 51 Fargo 1 ton pu with a hoist under the pu bed I still need to do brakes on and install a new pto pump on. -
48 panel sheet metal on an S-10 chassis?
austinsailor replied to austinsailor's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
I'm not much worried about payload, but it is one of the first things I was thinking about. The panel body is heavier than the pickup bed, so it'll be like more than a feather load empty. It's simple to add leaves or overloads. Do you think it's going to be more drastic a problem than that? I am a bit concerned over the 4 cylinder's power, although I don't expect or need a hot rod runner. I'd use it mainly painted up in my businesses colors and logo, to run errands and park on the lot as advertising. Using it to run errands and take money to the bank certainly wouldn't strain much - there isn't much to haul these days! -
48 panel sheet metal on an S-10 chassis?
austinsailor replied to austinsailor's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Torches, gig, mug, saws and grinders. I can destroy most anything! Seems like in some previous post I read that the S-10 had a narrower track than our trucks. I haven't been able to find specs on that. I won't be home for 2 weeks so all I can do now is try to think it through. Fortunately, the S-10 came with a set of reverse-like wheels with nearly new tires. Assuming I'm remembering correctly, that should help that look. -
I have a 48 panel that has a hunk of scrap iron for a motor, a chassis needing everything and needing some new metal on the front. I have a good front clip and doors handy and it occurred to me this evening I should consider mating all that with an S-10 I bought a while back. S-10 is a 91 swb 2wd 4 cylinder 5 speed. Sheetmetal is pretty rusted, but the running gear and tires are good. Looking at specs, the S-10 is 108.3 wheel base, panel is 108. Seems like a match. Bought the S-10 for $150 ( guy said the clutch was shot, but needed a slave cylinder) so not a lot invested. This is probably not the most ideal mating - a 6 cylinder, for example, would probably be more desireable, but it's all here and available. A few body mounts and some wiring and I could change two of the things sitting in the way to a drivable vehicle. One advantage in Missouri is, over 25 years old can be registered historic, no inspection, just buy a tag. And unlike some states, it's registered here as what it most resembles, not what the chassis is. So, no safety or emmissions concerns. So, bolt it together, buy insurance, buy a tag and it's on the road. Thoughts? I'm sure there are better donor chassis around (Dakota, etc) but nothing more available than sitting there in the way at no cost.
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In reading more articles, I learned that in 1932 a car's lifespan was expected to be about 50,000 miles. If it made 60,000 it was unusual. In those 50,000 miles it could expect many valve jobs, an overhaul ( or two) and be on it's 4th set of tires. Cars and tires were many times more expensive in relation to income than now. Also, insurance was different. $50 deductable was standard, but wages were a fraction of what they are now, so it was like being maybe $1000 today. However, liability limits were in the same range as today, so a $100,000 liability limit was like $1.5 to $2 million today. Also, there was a movement to ban any vehicles over 5 years old (the expected lifespan) from the road. Pretty interesting history.
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You just asked this in another post and got your answers.