austinsailor

I can't imagine why you couldn't sand cast it. And finding raw metal would be a cakewalk - strip a car or two of their useless corroded parts.

I didn't even have a good guess on that one, but I'd have had to use a lot of imagination to come up with that Rube Goldberg arrangement!

http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

From 1925 until 1970 there was a regular column in Popular Science Magazine about a mechanic named Gus and his visits from customers and their problems. I might have originally gotten the link from a post here, I don't recall, but here it is: http://www.gus-stories.org/The_Stories.htm I used to read it in the '50's and '60's when I was young, and occasionally older ones when we found a few in a box we'd get at an auction Lately I read a few now and then and it's quite entertaining and enlightening. Reading just a few will point out how much less maintenance is needed even compared to our 40's cars. Valve jobs every year? Checking and adding to your alcohol antifreeze each week? Tune ups every thousand miles or so? Removing carbon from the cylinders maybe yearly? And the new method, instead of removing the head, toss a lit match in the open spark plug hole, then put an oxygen hose in to burn it out??!! I'm still trying to figure out what a vacuum tank is for in the fuel line. It's obvious that it can cause a lot of problems if it isn't functioning correctly or the vent is stopped up, but how the heck does that work. I need to start on 1932 now.

My shop charges about $20 install and to fit normal bushings. YOu can't buy a reamer for that. And he gets it done right the first time!

Bushings will handle a heavier load than needel bearings, so I wonder what the advantage would be? Easier turning? Properly fitted bushings will have very little drag, so I don't see the advantage.

I have a few (maybe 50?) magazine articles published. Not cars, but boats and sailing. Since I sell only "first North American serial rights" once they are published, they are mine again. Many are here: http://austinsailor.net/stindex.html Mostly about our blunders. Gene G.

40 Plymouth 4 door sedan for $40 in 1962. A guy I met had just driven it from Oregan to Missouri after buying it used for $40 instead of paying Greyhound. Second, a year later, was a 55 Plymouth 4 door, 6 cylinder powerflite. $25 with 4 broken pistons and the timing chain slipping. Got it as fast as 25 mph on the way home. Bought a set of Sears and Roebuck pistons for about $20, dug the broken motor block (which i'd put a rod through the block, then replaced) from the 40 up at the dump and got the timing gears and chain from it and put the 55 together. Drove it a couple years, sold it to a neighbor who drove it 5 more years and only put front brakes on it. Next was a 65 Barracuda high performance 273 with the 4 speed and posi ordered from the factory. Put 60,000 hard miles on that one. It would do about 80 in second, 125+ in third and who knows? in fourth. Passed a cop once at about 135 and accelerating. That went over real good when they stopped me 40 miles down the interstate.

I'd love to find a 413. If anyone sees one that can be bought please let me know. Both of mine are 331 motors, same block, but different bore and innards. One of the treads I read that the motor they were looking at had hydraulic lifters. Only the`413 had them as far as I've been able to find out.

I have 2 in Central Missouri, one running in a truck, another on the shelf. Yes, it's 7 mains and 12 ports. There is a fellow in England who's restored a ww2 era panel with one in it and has documented a lot of it. You can see mine in various states of disassembly and rebuild at: http://www.austinsailor.net/47_dodge/47dodge.html I understand that the big truck motor is a version of the original motor you are asking about. They also make it into a OHV version to create the diesel of the 40's trucks.

Looks correct to me, it's just pulled loose or unscrewed from the source. On the other side of the block, inside the valve cover, is the exit. The replacement I got was copper like that.

It's a very strange system. It's correct that newer motors oil through the lifters, but I recently had to repair the ohv oiling on my dad's 41 Chevy pickup. Oil pump is on the left. An oil line screws into the block/ pump area. I can't recall if it's actually the pump or block where it attaches, but on the outside. The line is a complicated arrangement, it goes into the block on the left side, through the water jacket, exits the water jacket on the right inside the side lifter cover. It goes up to the rocker arm through a hole in the head, makes a bend, then dribbles oil on the rocker arm. When you replace this line, it comes as an assembly with fittings all over, all the fittings to seal both sides of the block, the fitting to screw into the block at the source, and an open end at the exit. You have to fit it through, slide the fittings on the other side, make all the bends, get it to seal water in and get it to dribble oil at the right place, bending as you install without kinking. I thought it was a pretty sad arrangement myself, but then Ford has some doozies as well. At some time I'm sure they went to internal lines in the block, but I don't know when. As I recall, the oil pump also feeds the dip trays where the rods pick up the oil. I'm not sure how the lifters and pushrod ends get oil.

my truck and I were in the same place today and I checked my windows. Near the bottom is etched: "Herculite" "AS 9-88" Try as hard as I might I was unable to get it to show up in a picture.

They are tempered, us stadards required it for quite a time before that. a little bit of googling should give the dates. As to breaking one, once it's broken, it'll be tiny pieces and you couldn't tell what it started as. I suppose a guy could show a picture of an intact one under a hammer, next picture shows a bunch of tempered glass shards, who could tell where it came from? But, to prove yours without destructive testing, use polorized sunglasses to look at it. Get the light right and the tempering shows right up. No broken glass, no searches and it proves the exact glass in your truck is what they want.

I just sold one to Tim Adams. It was set up for the overdrive. Worked just fine and cleared everything. They are around.

I also learned to weld in a community college. I always recommend it to anyone who says they'd like to know how. I also took a course where you just make projects - fabrication, I think they called it. Several times. Most of the guys made little keep busy things, I made trailers, tanks, big aluminum projects. They paid for all but the raw metal. (gas, rod, electric, tips, etc) They lost money on me! I do have 2 '40 dodges like yours, one I drive and one a parts car. I have some parts left, email if you need something and I'll see if it's still there.

A new seal is about $5, might take an hour max to put it in.

I've had mine on for a couple years. Fit fine, look good, drives good. I used 42 Plymouth car wheels, I think 4".

No, not safe, as I have a '53 half ton sitting here with a 4 speed!'

If you can't take out the plug and pour it in I believe you're using the wrong stuff.

I don't recall if it was the 42 plymouth or 47 dodge 3 ton, but one had an original key which had a round head. How did I know it was original? It still had the little metal tag that came from the factory!

Tim, I've got one, I was thinking of about $50. Came with my OD transmission. It'll go in my 42 Plymouth with the original column shift.

I have one for a 3 speed overdrive for sale. It'll fit a non-overdrive with a small modification to the mount. I don't think that is what you need though.

>I'm hoping to kind of supe it up a bit but as far as I can find >there are very few places to get performance parts for a long block. >no dual exhaust, no dual carb intakes Parts are around. I recently had custom tube headers made for my long block by Langdon. Custom made, stainless, excellent work. Cost about $300. Langdon also came up with an Edlebrock aluminum two carb manifold with water heat (needed to be streetable without the exhaust heat) for a very reasonable price. Had my cam reground by Edgy for about $125 or so. You can have the head shaved anywhere. So, parts are available.

I just put an American 230 truck motor (23") in a '51 Fargo, about the same deal. All I did was weld tabs on the front of the motor mounts. Back end is the same. I haven't done it, but a 2" spacer on the fan would be a good thing. Everything else is pretty much plug and play. Not many Fargos in central Missouri, so a Canadian motor wasn't handy.