austinsailor

I started it up today, let it get warm and adjusted the valves. After running about half an hour all smoke was gone, even racking the throttle up and down to high RPMs and oil pressure is 60 at an idle hot. Sits and idles like a sewing machine. I think this is going to be a good runner! Do I sound excited?

There is a guy near me who has a truck he built - 4 door Dakota on an F-150 Chassis and a 4 cylinder bread truck motor. When I met him he was just retuning from Minnesota with a gooseneck trailer hauling a 39 Ford 1 1/2 ton dually he'd bought. Said he got 22 on the trip back, usually got about 30. I've driven my Dodge Cummins diesels probably 400,000 miles in the last 10 years. Once in a while I replace the fuel filter. I've had one time on the road where it was a problem, and it was obvious it was fuel starvation when you pushed it hard. I changed it that time in a parking lot, took off with no problems. I've also done probably 10,000 in my diesel powered sailboat. Small 30 hp motor. I've had more problems there, as often fuel has been sitting a long time, but again, changing filters is all that has been required. On the boat, once more than one a day, but that is running 24 hours a day. Fuel problems are just not a part of the equation. You might not like diesel for a lot of reasons, but worrys about fuel quality is just not a reason to worry. In addition, diesel will last far longer in the tank than gas. Years.

What sort of parts do you have? If you mean recycle as in crusher, maybe we can save some of them. At this point what I need are new chrome parts. I have a complete new brake system. That should get it on the road. I plan to drive it for a few months, see what is what, then this fall tear it apart and rebuild. Upholstery is pretty bad and will all have to be redone. Not much body work, mainly sandblasting. Probably some wiring replacement. A few floorboard patches, but it's basically pretty straight and solid. My wife told me tonight she thought I'd get it running, but sure didn't think it would be this soon. I thought it took way too long - guess it's all in your perspective.

Last night I put the head back on after replacing all the valves. I'd soaked the rings with Sea Foam for most of the last 3 weeks. Tonight I messed with a leak in the fuel filter, went through several junk rotors until I found one that would fit right. Checked compression, about 110 all down the line. Cranked it over, fired up and runs good - well, good for not having the points, timing or valves set. No smoke at all, runs even, I think with some tune up and tinkering it's going to be a fine motor. Now to get on the new brake system, patch the seats up fit to sit in, and get the windows to open. I even went and bought the license today, so when it's at all drivable, I'll hit the country road outside!

I would try: TIG weld a big knob on top if you have a TIG available. Use a big, good quality vice grip to turn it. Go both ways, both in and out to work it loose. I've never had a broken bolt I couldn't get out this way, including those broken below the surface. The heat gets it loose, the big knob gives you something to turn it with. Some use a wire welder but I've had little success with that, I can never get a good enough weld that the nut doesn't break loose. Someone better than me with a wire welder might make this work, too. If no TIG is available, I'd use your favorite penetrating oil/compound for a day or two, heat if possible, (small tip on a gas torch?) then work it back and forth until it'll back out. Heat only the bolt, not the block. The important part is to go both ways to work it loose. I can't imagine an easy out working.

I actually bought it for the Edmunds manifold. He put the distributors in with it. The distributor in the picture in his ad was a stock one, didn't have a clue the other was anything else. Looks like it should work on my 251 hot rod motor. Go with the headers and dual carbs.

I have no doubt it's the coil. I took it by my d time machine shop and he says it's either high performance or marine, but he doesn't know which. It is dual points.

I bought an Edmunds manifold and got some more parts in the deal. I knew there were 2 distributors, but what is this one? I have the feeling it's not the normal run of the mill replacement. And, what is the box that the coil wire goes to?

That is true if the guy whose name it is in is present. They print it on the spot, cost $5 10 years ago. With a notorized bill of sale you can get a bonded title pretty easy, though.

I have a 40 4 door parts car and may have a few bits and pieces you need. I'm 1100 miles from it now, should be back in a week or so. Let me know what you haven't found and I'll see if I have anything usable. As for a shift knob, I have 2 40 Dodges and both have a shifter that has a plastic molded handle that covers the whole thing, not a knob. I've been unable to find a replacement. I noticed in one picture in this thead that the shifter looked to have a screw on knob. Maybe there were 2 types. A few years ago I bought a knob from Andy Bernbaum for $14 that looked real nice but wouldn't fit my car. If yours takes a screw on type you might try Andy.

two thoughts, more applicable if the motor is still in the car. First, block the 3 oil return holes before starting. Keepers will end up in the pan if you don't. Second, raise the spring just a bit, knock the valve down free of the keepers, then raise the spring the rest of the way. If you raise it all the way, then tap the valve free, there is no telling where the keepers will end up.

Yes, that should work. I've done just what you are suggesting, except I didn't remove the cover on the end. I had no play so no reason to. I would do just as you suggest, maybe not remove the plate on the end, wash it out well, put in a new seal and put it back together. I think you can wash it out pretty well without taking the end off. Some boxes are adjusted by adding or removing shims below the sector, the pickups are adjusted with the screw on the top of the box. I'd get the manual and do whatever yours requires. Check closely how your gears look. They should have no gouges, or wear showing. If they do, they won't last long. There are many opinions as to what lub to use, I recommend something that flows, not a stiff grease. Grease will not get where it needs to be. It needs to flow into all the bearings, gears and bushings to do it's job. They originally had something similar to transmission oil.

I've seem posts looking for rear glass before. Here's a new one I found on Cragislist for a 40 Plymouth. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/2901488529.html

I have a late 42. No chrome, but the grill and stainless trim was still stainless. Headlight rims, bumpers, tail light bezels and light in the middle of the trunk were all silver paint.

So is there such a thing as laminated and tempered? That would seem to be the best of both worlds, stays together but no sharp edges. I've never heard of it, but I'm far from an expert. If you learn more I'd like to hear about it. I don't think glass type is a big issue in our vehicles, we're seldom in massive accidents or roll overs, but it's nice to know what is out there.

>not only cuts my glass but the side and rear glass (if flat) is >also sent out to be heat treated to temper the glass for ultimate safety I, too, thought the tempered glass was safer until I did some reading recently on the subject. Turns out, it's not safer, it's a couple dollars cheaper for the new car builder. It's done that way over the objections of safety groups.

That is wise - no telling what someone has put in it. Gene

I was wondering what to do about the crappy head bolts that came out of my truck motor I'm building into a hot rod motor - I just ordered a set. Thanks for the link.

Got hold of him, I'm buying it. Great find. Thanks for posting it. Gene

Ed, a 40 pickup motor in your area: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/pts/2834842673.html

http://chico.craigslist.org/pts/2847453763.html

got a call in to him, left a message. Iwould not be surprised if he's sold it and quit answering his phone. Thanks for posting it. Gene

Wheel wells vary from truck to truck, but if it has some that are in the way you could always build it up with planks to be level.

I know I've seen post from members in this area. I'd go through the member's list and send PM's, but I don't think you can easily pick an area, and there are a lot of members.

No interest?