austinsailor

there is a lot around for that 25" motor. multi carb manifolds, Mallory ignition, tube headers, high compression heads, you can re-grind the cam. Search the swap meets, Craig's list, the bay - and even ask here.

A few posts back there was talk of the need to build the crank up to take std bearings. There is another option. Save your old bearings, they can be rebuilt and line bored to fit your reground crank.

Don, I haven't met him in person, but have talked to him a number of times over the past year and a half. I did get the impression he felt he was an expert in the area, I can't say anything he told me was known by me to be BS, but then, I know so little in the area he could have and I might have not have known it. But everything he said seemed to make sense. I guess time will tell. I do have a very nice Edmonds dual 2bbl manifold he sold me at an attractive price, a set of headers for my 25" motor he custom makes and they look top notch, and a pair of progressive 2bbl carbs I bought from him that I think will work well. I still haven't had a chance to assemble it all, so how it will perform is an unknown at this point. So, at this point I think I'll sit on the side and wait to see how this build turns out. Hopefully, in the next few months I'll get mine together and add some real life results to the mix.

Give Tm Langdon a call. He's very knowledgeable about carbs and these motors. I've forgotten the reasons he explained those web era were not a good choice, but he can make sense of it. He does have some progressive 2bbl carbs, new I think, at under $200 a pair that are sized just right. (unless he's sold them all)

NAPA has a lot of parts, they have few listings. If you can find the numbers they can often get the parts. Irritates me that I have to do the work but they make the money.

I have a 42 2 door sedan. My big surprise was the availability of 42 only parts, like gauges, badges etc. They come up often on eBay with few bidders. they made far fewer cars, but a lot of parts. EBay is your friend on this one.

Take the engine number from above the generator, then find it here: http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

Depends on the car. I don't see mention of what it is, so I'll mention that my 2 40 Dodge sedans have plastic that is molded on and can't be removed. I have no idea what other models are made that way.

I should mention that I haven't used Royal purple in my old cars, just the new ones. I suspect it would work great, I just have drum of old formula Rotella for them with high ZDDP content. I have cleaned the pan of each, put the modern Rotella in each, and in short order all smoking quit and they've done fine. I believe, but can't prove, that the high detergent cleans out deposits and lets things seal better.

I've used Royal Purple for 15 years. I started when I had the transmission of my sailboat rebuilt. The rebuilder gave my RP ATF and said it was the best around. Then I talked to a boat racer who used it in his drag boat. He'd use it for a season, he changed it at the end, and his oil looked and smelled better than the oil of some of his competitors who changed it each race. I was sold.

It sounds like the stud won't pass through the hole in the manifold, if I understand correctly. It also sounds like it moved out 3/4 inch and is stuck. If it'll pivot you can work it loose. Push it back in. pull it out and spin on that stud, use some pb blaster or similar and continue till it comes off. If it moves, it'll come loose eventually.

PM sent with contact info. Gene

I would never have guessed that a 54 Plymouth would have come with power steering! I can tell you the these powe steering pumps are massive compared to today. This fellow used one to drive the hydrolics on a front loader of a tractor.

He also had a couple pumps not mounted, but I didn't see any data plates to identify them. I'll find out how he wants to be contacted. I don't want to post his cell # without talking too him first.

I bought a pile of parts from a guy last week, gaskets, condensors, 37 Plymouth generator and other stuff. He had a generator for a 51 - 53 Chrysler with the power steering pump on it. I didn't get it, still trying to figure out why I got the other stuff, but if it's of value to anyone I can put you in touch. Model # *6 v *Ggj 6003a.

Replacing the synchronizer assembly has fixed this problem on a couple I messed with.

I think you realized my last post was tongue-in-cheek. My post 15 or so back sums up my opinion. You do bring up a good point. I mentioned the extra strain on front end parts - which it appears that a later post says Coker agrees with. I hadn't thought about the disk brake aspect. Heck, throw in a t-5 tranny and 75 mph driving, radials and disk brakes - you might twist the a frames right out from under that old mopar with hard braking. Don, you've got all that. Are your front end parts all still where they should be?!

OK then. Only one question remains. How can you tell what the rim was made for? Markings? I've never seen any. Shape? I've never noticed a difference - even when I knew their origins. Can anyone answer that?

Sounds to me like someone got the model t and Studebaker prices backwards. What were they thinking?

I think I'm going to write up a paper and post it on the internet. If it's there, it has to be true, right? I've had a couple wheels crack over the years, none with a radial tire mounted on it. If this were accurate and a concern, along about the mid to late '70s we would have seen a rash of wheel failures. I worked in a station with a tire shop in the back that sold a lot of BF Goodrich radials, almost all mounted on wheels that originally had bias tires on them. I did the tire repairs for a year. I never saw a failed wheel with a radial tire on it. The only failed wheels I saw were a couple that were rusted so that they cracked along the outer lip where the tire mounted. None were a catastrophic failure, they were flats where the crack was noticed while it was dismounted. I did see catastrophic failures of tires - I recall one guy where I had to round up another spare. He drove over a broken Pepsi bottle which took out a 3" dia plug from both his front and rear tire. I saw blowouts where radials had lost the whole sidewall, dropping them straight to the ground. I saw sidewalls cut clean through where they hit a curb - but in all cases the wheels were intact. If you have wheels that were severely rusted at one time, I'd be worried a bit. Deep pitting, bent and straightened I might take a closer look. By the way, there is a whole industry doing this from the back of trailers - they have to leave a wheel weaker than they found it and I haven't heard of them being a problem. I think this is a lot of smoke with no substance. If you're going to worry, I'd be a lot more concerned with the extra stresses put on the front end parts by the extra traction of the radials.

I have a set of Langdon's headers and they are plenty thick. They are also excellent quality, I'm not sure how he can come out ok on his price with what he's put into them. they are quite a buy. I have not assembled my motor yet, so I can't comment on performance.But the solution to the rich/heat issue is to get a water heated intake. They are around, I have two Edmonds versions. One is a dual single barel carb model and one is a dual 2bbl version. The other things you should do is mill the head somewhere in the .050 to .100 range as already suggested ($40 at my machine shop) and send your cam to Edgy for a regrind. ($125).

That is the big 30" motor - sure wish it was near me. Might have been a 413 with the dual carbs.

My local old time machine shop does quite a few, and the price runs about $1500 - $1600 parts and labor. Gene G. Central Mo.

there is one like that about 40 miles from me. Nobody has been allowed in for about 30 years.

And 40 years ago that would have been a $50 car! Half a weeks pay. Or a week for many.