austinsailor

Adjusted properly with the correct tool will give you solid pedel maybe 2" to 3" down. They will never stop like a modern car with power disk brakes, but they can be quite satisfactory for most situations. But they do have to be adjusted properly. I put all new original type parts on my b1b. After adjusting with the factory tool I had solid pedel 2" down. Doesn't stop like a race car , but quite acceptable for a 50 mph top speed vehicle.

Tim is right, but you asked for opinions. In my opinion, you've aleady thrown away good money on a guy who has no clue of what he's doing. What a BS story he fed you.

If we knew where you were trying to do this someone might have some help to offer. If you were in Missouri it's simple. Since I don't know where you are I have no idea if I could help. I will say I would never take some random person who answers the phone at any DMV as the final word.

I was kinda liking it a little bit until I saw the back window. Man, is that ugly! I guess the section was the vertical section to shorten it. Doesn't seem to be sectioned horizontally. That is one you'd have to see in person to even consider.

Ok I tried this one, excluding the years works: http://zoomthelist.com/ Gene

I bought one about 2 years ago in excellent shape .... with a floor shift conversion attached to it for $300. Just my opinion, but I thought it was way below cheap. I expected the police to show up any minute for a theft. What do you guys think? $500 to $700 as a reasonable selling price? Oh, I bought another last spring for $750. Might sound high, but it was in a 53 Plymouth 2 door hard top with 12,000 miles on it! About 2 years ago I had a 54 dodge with a stuck hemi and od that was in Iowa for $250 located. I was going to go get it, decided I didn't feel like driving the 400 miles one way. I posted it here for all to have a shot. 6 months later I regretted not getting it, called him and he had taken it to the shredder. Are you sick yet? Keep your eyes open, search Craigslist often - daily - use "dodge overdrive", "plymouth overdrive", "Chrysler overdrive", "desoto overdrive" and "mopar overdrive" as your search terms. On the local Craigslist page you can exclude terms, like newer years by searching on "dodge overdrive -2000 -2001 -01" etc. I'm guessing, but haven't tried, that will work with the craigslist search engines on the web. You can make a file with the excluded years up, then paste it in each time. Mine is 5 typed lines, excluding all years 1970 on. By the way, that was how I found the '53 2 door, searching for overdrive. Good luck Let's not let any more go to the shredder. Gene sitting on the texas coast today

I's not like he's chopping the top. 2 new - or used - springs and throw away the locks and it's back to stock if he doesn't like it.

You are correct that it can be done while not bolted up in the vehicle. But, someone has to know what they are doing and have more tools. It will limit who can do it for you. If it's all bolted up where it goes, then welded anyone who is a half way decent welder can do it. It'll cut your cost and greatly expand your pool of welders. Of course, you are right, both the axle and the vehicle will have to show up at the welder, which opens up another whole new can of worms.

I've been trying to find a way to have decent bumpers on my '53 Plymouth. I have a quote from Superior Chrome Plating in Houston. Here is what they say: Hello, Thank you for contacting Superior Chrome Plating Inc. (www.JustChromeIt.com) Following is the quote you requested: Pricing is based on show car quality finish. The final price may vary depending on the amount of cleaning, straighting and repair work necessary to prepare the part(s) for chroming. (Unusual pieces, outside of classic car, classic truck or motorcycle parts, may require a phone call to get a closer estimate.) * Bumpers******** $425-450 each Guards********** $65-75 each ****As long as your bumpers do not have rust holes through them, we can completely restore and rechrome them**** Anyone have any thoughts or feedback? My bumpers are heavily rusted with flaky chrome still showing on much of them. No rust through, though. Minor bends, etc. thanks, Gene

I'm not close enough to weld it for you, but I have done just what you describe. I took a coil spring 3:23 rear out of a Chevy wagon, cut all the junk off, cut all the mounts off the leaf spring 4:11 rear of a Chevy van, welded it and it worked great for years. What I did was mount the rear in the van with nothing welded, got it all in the right place, tightened it up, then welded. This way you know everything is aligned and going to fit. Once it's tacked you can remove it if you don't want to do all the welding around the gas tank or whatever else might worry you. I'd be worried if I took it across town, had it welded, then hoped everything fit when it got back to the vehicle.

I got my flathead valve spring compressor at an antique outboard club meet for $2. Never thought to try to talk him down! Got to keep your eyes open. Gene

Intate batteries used to be great. Now they are made overseas, some dealers have dropped them due to quality issues.

Is the 1 year a free replacement time with a 3 or 4 year prorated time, or 1 year total? I ask because in the late 70's I drove a 48 Chevy one ton as my daily driver all over Northwest Arkansas. I had a Sears battery, 18 month or 24 month, I forget, total warranty time. Every 6 months they'd have to replace it, as they just weren't that good. A couple were free, a couple I had to pay some prorated charges, but it was a pain regardless being stranded frequently with a bad battery. The guys at sears finally begged me to trade it for a better battery. If it's a real short warranty time it probably isn't worth the inconvenience. If it's 1 year free replacement with a 4+ year pro rated warranty, you'll probably be happy.

I just noticed my phone changed the heading to "supper" instead of supplier. How embarrassing! Glad you got it sorted out.

I'd gladly try them, but '52 is S late as the make. Mine is '53. Gene

Surprised me - the seller is the same fellow I just recommended as an addition to our links section for tail lights. I do know he has a lot of parking lights as well. He had them for my 53 plymouth, for example.

I've located a fellow who has a supply of lenses, many for our cars, and has a business of making lenses. He has molds for many, including the 49 Chrysler one of our people was looking for. He supplies a lot of restoration shops. They aren't real cheap, but the ones I've priced are cheaper than most places that have NOS parts. I don't know how to add a supplier or link so maybe someone else can. Richard Woods, classicautolenses@hotmail.com He's in Grand Prairie, TX

There is a solid wire, I think called easy grind, that is easier to grind the welds. A little more expensive, but easier to clean up.

Ordered tires today. Those 2 3/4 whites will look soo good!

i never did get any replacements for my floors. If anyone has a 53 (or 54, I think) with floor pans I could cut out I'm interested. The very bottom of mine are bad with some holes, plus around the pedals.

I have a 30' by 52', 14' ceiling and it's no where close to big enough. I'm always buried in crap. You're screwed!

and I can't recall what the different ones fit. You just have the wrong seal. I went through that as well. They either fit perfectly or not even close.

Sounds like I'm worrying about it too much. I should just order them and keep on trucking. I'll call them tomorrow. Thanks for all the feedback.

I run 215 85r16 on my 4" wheels on my B1B so I'm not terribly worried about rim width. Overall, will I have good luck with these? I think so, but if there are any thoughts to worry about I'm interested in hearing them.

My '53 has 4 1/2" wheel and came out with 670 15 tires. I'd planned all along to get Diamondback wide whites for it. Diamondback's chart shows the replacement for 670 tires to be 205 75r15. They have 215 70r15 on sales for a pretty good price. The 215's are very close to the same diameter as the 670's. 205 75r15 are nearly an inch smaller. the 215's are .8" wider than the 205's. I have no idea what the width was on 670 15. Both 205 and 215 call far wider wheels than the 4 1/2" on the Plymouth. I'm inclined to order them. Any thoughts?