austinsailor

Damn, don't let that get around - someone will think I built it!

Oh, in the other room I have this AOK triple setup, ready for my 251. Add those Langdon headers on the other pictures, a shaved head and the cam Edgerton ground for me - I think it'll be a runner.

Nope, and I got rid of my Tv last year, too. The world has become a much nicer place!

THat's the worst idea I've heard in a long time!!

Here you go, another manifold. Fenton cast iron headers, currently on a 40 Dodge truck motor. Bought it from a guy who put a stovebolt 6 and powerglide in his 40 Dodge pickup. Why??? Who knows, but I got all the goodies, including aluminum valve covers and lots of chrome.

Why tie it up?

Mine is a bigger Scat Blast cabinet, similar to this, and it's probably the most used thing I have. From big parts to just nuts and bolts. Taking old rusted bolts and nuts out, if you can get them out without breaking, and 15 seconds to have them work like new.

The heck with tools - let's see the goodies you have laying around. Here are are a couple manifolds I have to start:

I used the new sector and old worm. Never found another option.

Guess my reputation is intact - stuck clutch.

Strange - it says it's 60% full. I'm deleting a bunch anyway.

Current is 5 on 5". So far I've only found front disk 5 on 4.5" so it may change to 5 on 4.5" all around. i have a set of wire wheels that are 5 on 4.5" that might look good.

Original artillary wheels are long gone. 5 on 5" bolt pattern may have to change to 5 on 4.5" get disks on the front.

In the quest to make the 36 Desoto Airflow a daily driver, it's been suggested I do a a rear end swap. Seems reasonable, get the correct gearing and disk brakes, plus the E brake. so, since it seems someone here can always come up with the info needed, what rear would give me 58" side to side from the wheel mounting surface, disk brakes and a low 3: something gear ratio? 3:23 or there abouts? I'm not concerned with spring mounts or shock mounts, I can fix that. i have another challenge on the front disk brake. Rusty Hope can only provide a kit if I have my spindles machined to a smaller diameter. I'm a little reluctant to do that. Anyone have other thoughts? Surely there are other 30's Chrysler or Desoto conversions.

Problem is it was still registered using the motor #, very common at the time. It was very easy to correct - or should I say update - when it was changed. More difficult now. i don't believe the motor # appears anywhere on the car - who knows for sure?

Well, iCloud will finally let me have my pictures. Here is the car in question.

Just sent him an email. Lots of things on Airflows are different, we'll see.

Lots of good thoughts! artillary wheels are gone, never found out why. I'll start keeping an eye out for a proper rear for the swap. i'm old school - still test the brakes as I near a stop. Pump or two before I try to use them. Some of you out there will know what I'm talking about. I do understand the difference a dual master cylinder makes. Twice I've had a single system fail catastrophically. Hmmm .... I guess any is catastrophically, huh? Will wake you up at once. I wonder if if any of the front disk conversions will fit this car? lots to think about.

It has modern Diamondback wide whitewall radials. You are probably correct about the transmission. i suppose the easiest way to make it more driveablr would do as you did, swap for a more modern rear, gaining an E brake. If I'm going to drive it regularly I'll have to put normal tags on it, requiring an inspection. Re-drill the hubs for the correct bolt pattern, I'd be off and running.

Driveshaft is the least of my worries. An old hot rodder here has s shop, has been making driveshafts for many years. Quality and economical. As to not doing mods that can't be reversed, I'm not too worried about that. They can discuss that st the estate sale! But, not much would be done that can't be reversed. It appears that if I want air conditioning, 12 volts is required. Until I dig deeper I won't know if the transmission to bell housing is the same as other Mopars. Airflow's did have some things that didn't follow the others.

I've messed with this sort of stuff since I was a teenager. It was always a pain to get the sheet metal parts clean. Outside dirt and gunk, especially. A couple years ago I bought one of those parts washers that work like a big dishwasher - heated soapy water and a tank in the bottom. I was shocked to find I could put in the nastiest caked on parts, give it a half hour and it was all gone. see if someone around you has one, car club guy, nearby machine shop or anyone. Give them $20 or so, put all your sheet metal parts in and save yourself hours of scraping and wire brushing. If you were close I'd tell you to stop by.

This is more a brainstorming session than a particular question. rather than buy yet another newer POS plastic car, I'm toying with turning my '36 Desoto Airflow into my daily driver. What good are they if you don't drive them? biggest problem is I either need new rear wnd gears or a different transmission. I'm owner #4 of this 50,000 mile car, and for some reason many years ago the original overdrive transmission was disassembled and an unknown 3 speed was put in. Overdrive came in a box with it, but rebuilding it is a $3-4 k exercise, and likely not reliable. Rear gears are something lower than 4:11, so right now 45 is about the top you'd want to go. i have a set of nos 3:56 gears that might solve some of this. Also, maybe a 5 speed with overdrive. You'll say right off " Wait, you'll lose your e brake". Well, not really, because when they put in this 3 speed it was a foot shorter than the overdrive. The e brake interfeared with the frame so they tossed it. so, maybe a T5 and a modern rear axle. Airflow has a 5 on 5" wheel pattern, so that needs to be solved. (And no left hand threads on the left - not a problem, just a curiosity). Original motor, runs fine and should last a long time. Brakes, suspension and steering all in good shape. Just looking for thoughts, ideas, maybe feedback on a T5 fitting an Airflow.

The long running boards indicate it was built as a pickup, not cab and chassis like mine.

Overdrive or fluid drive? starts in gear, stopped, and doesn't take off while the clutch is still depressed? Still sounds like a clutch problem with the plate dragging.

Stuck clutch. Put it in gear and try to start it.