TodFitch

Why not install two injectors on the siamesed ports? Means you'd have all six installed and wouldn't need to worry about changing any of the injector logic.

I think Rare Parts has their own machine shop/manufacturing facility. No doubt they will buy from other vendors if that is cheaper for them, but they specialize in low volume stuff which is not as amenable to offshore production.

From The Birth of Chrysler Corporation and Its Engineering Legacy by Carl Breer, starting on page 93: Sounds like it was more a matter of the way the water jacket was laid out. Maybe with the water distribution tube setup this wouldn't be a problem. But if you are going to swap intake for exhaust you might need to redesign the distribution tube too.

Don't know how much this might apply, but Carl Breer's autobiography mentioned that one car they took over responsibility for (I think Maxwell but I'll have to look it up) had individual ports for intake but siamesed exhaust ports. When running the max power tests the engine got progressively worse and they found that the exhaust valves were getting too hot. They fixed it by swapping intake and exhaust. Apparently that gave more block area per exhaust valve to carry way heat from the valve guides and thus the valve stems and the valve heads.

I haven't ordered anything from India. If the generic "you" is meant, I guess one might order direct from India if they could determine that the party at the other end had what they wanted in terms of quality and price and that they were reputable to deal with.

Probably sunset for you especially if the light is accompanied with an air horn.

I got a large wooden clamp used in furniture making. With the window down for the clamp to go through and get near the handle and a pad to protect the paint on the outside of the door was able to press the door panel down enough to fit the pin. Don't know if the handle is close enough to the window or a door edge for that to work for you but you might check.

That company contacted my years ago to have me carry their product. One of the problems with that is that while I run a Plymouth related web site I'm not in the parts business. However I've wondered from time to time if they aren't the supplier of the sealed canister oil filters that places like Roberts still sell but which have not been manufactured by a mainstream company in well over a decade. They show a lot more items now than when I first saw that page. Back then it was basically just the oil filter. See: http://dhwani-impex.com/product_OEM_pic1.htm#A1

If you've swapped the sender and the dash unit and still have the problem, I'd suspect wiring. If either of the two wires has a break or a bare spot that is occasionally connecting or shorting you will have problems similar to what you describe.

There is an air filter built into the oil filler cap: Thats what all that wire mesh inside the cap is about. It should be cleaned with gasoline or kerosene and then re-oiled with heavy motor oil at the appropriate service intervals. For my '33 the interval is listed as every 2000 miles. The advantage, from the point of view of keeping unburned hydrocarbons from escaping into the atmosphere, of using the carburetor air filter for both the crankcase air filter and for the fuel mixture is that an older engine with more blow by than the PCV valve can handle is sucked into the engine via the carburetor rather than allowed to escape via the oil filler cap. By the way, it is my understanding that PCV systems were first used on a few high end cars in the late 1920s. Not the 1960s. And the military used it back in at least the early 50s and maybe the 40s. But it cost more than a draft tube so it wasn't used on most cars until it was found to be the single biggest way to reduce smog producing unburned hydrocarbon emissions from cars. So even though its main purpose is to extend engine life it got tagged as a anti-smog device and reviled as something bad. I knew a fellow back in the '90s who insisted on stripping off all that "smog junk" but failed to add a draft tube or other crankcase ventilation system. He had problems with seals and leakage due to crankcase pressurization. I attempted to explain to him what the system was and how it worked and that it was a good thing regardless of what it did for smog reduction but he could not get past the "must be only for smog control and it will hurt performance" so he did not replace it. Just kept replacing seals.

And maybe, someday, I will get one of those. But for the last 40 years I've been using a copper elbow I picked up at a hardware store. Painted it black to make it less obvious and, so far, no one has pointed it out to me as being wrong.

I suspect that the mixture was overly rich to ignite. But I've often wondered if that were really the case or just dumb luck. The fact that electrical devices have been in fuel tanks for over 80 years now and they've taken to putting electrical fuel pumps inside the tanks in the last 20 years without a huge number of cars exploding indicates that it is reasonably safe.

It was for Plymouth in the 1930s. From the '36-'48 parts book it looks like the practice lasted until at least the P15 era. Seems likely they'd do the same on the truck side of things.

Truck was published in 1977. Here's the cover of mine, dust jacket a bit worn for age. I think I purchased my copy in the 1978-1980 time frame.

I am, apparently, from one of three cities that I've never lived in. One I've driven through a couple of times, the other two I've never been to at all. I just sound like I'm from there according to this: http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2013/12/20/sunday-review/dialect-quiz-map.html It did, however, peg my wife as being from the general area she actually came from. How close does it guess for you?

No, total suburbanite. But that topic has come up from time to time and I happened to remember it.

Vacuum take off for the milking machine?

If I did my calculation right, 3.6L is about 220 cu.in. Sounds close enough to me.

Way back when, I used large diameter plastic tubing that was sold by the foot in the local hardware store.

Is that, perhaps, a California car? I recall seeing some stuff indicating that California started requiring PCV on cars in the late 50s or early 60s. And sometimes things got retrofitted onto earlier cars.

Second picture is a '35 Plymouth. Third looks to me like the first post war Studebaker. Three of four are Chrysler products, I wonder why the third photo isn't.

On the car side, the 1936-42 factory shop manual has some numbers. Looks pretty similar across those years. Here is the data for 1942: Mechanical advance: 0° @ 350 RPM 3° @ 400 RPM 5° @ 620 RPM 8° @ 940 RPM 10° @ 1150 PRM Vacuum advance: 2° with 6 3/4" of vacuum 8 1/2° with 15" of vacuum Looks like they went with a lot more advance post war, the 1946-54 factory shop manual shows less detail but more advance. For the P15: Mechanical: 16° to 20° at 2050 RPM Vacuum: 15° to 19° at 16" of vacuum

Finally got Flash working on my laptop after many months so took a look at that. At the bottom they said "It works by running an electrical current through a special polymer applied to the vehicle before painting." You can watch the video directly without all the Flash crap at http://www.chonday.com/Videos/1paintcarchwo.mp4 Unfortunately the site appears to be a "video of the day" type of place and it does not credit where they got it from which might have more information. Same video appears to be posted on YouTube at with the description: There is a different video with a similar theme at Something here: http://www.engadget.com/2007/11/09/paramagnetic-paint-lets-you-change-your-cars-color-on-a-whim/ And here: http://www.nextenergynews.com/news1/next-energy-news-paramagnetic-paint.html Still not enough for me to determine what the heck is going on. Tempted to call it a hoax as there seems to be no definitive original source for the "information" but maybe. . .

Rumor has it that the cars which were sold in Canada with a 25" block and in the US with a 23" block could have the radiator position changed by the way the radiator mount was installed. You might want to check and see if that holds true for the car you are working on.