TodFitch

Don't know about that but the photo I posted above shows that the head on my engine was Politically Correct (PC). (Actually I think it has PC on it as it was introduced on the 1933 PC model Plymouth.)

Don't know about '34 but "Silver Dome" was cast into the head in '33. The photo is of a '33 or '34 block as evidenced by the visible cylinder bores on the left side of the engine. From the oil pump its a mid-1933 or later engine but the photo of the left side does not clearly show the oil pressure relief valve area so I can't tell if its a mid-1933 or a late-1933/1934 block. Engine number above the generator would say. Looks like a post WW2 carburetor based on the mounting for the air filter. . . Also that exhaust manifold is for a later engine, 1933 and 1934 had rear dump.

Are you okay with freeway driving? If I'm on my own I'd be coming east on CA237 to I-680 to I-580. Probably some reasonable rendezvous someplace there.

Not entirely sure I'm going but if I do then caravanning would be fine with me. Where are you located?

I suppose a true machinist would cringe at the sight of those tools being free to jostle one another and be damaged. . . I've had drawers that look like that too, so maybe I shouldn't comment. But nowadays I try to organize things so that the tools are less likely to be damaged and easier to find. For taps and dies I just drill hoes in a block of wood. Maybe I ought to turn the taps the other way up to keep the cutting edges out of the wood, but at least they aren't jostling hardened tool steel against hardened tool steel.

PartsVoice lists five vendors carrying part 853295

From my experience that won't work. Address may be Clements but I think it might be closer to Lodi and in any case it is out away from town in either case. Here is a link to the post with the flyer: http://p15-d24.com/topic/34735-7th-annual-clements-tailgate-bbq/?p=356408 Thinking I might crash the party with my Plymouth car this year. Only about 100 miles from here and I haven't had many excuses to get the car out as I'd like.

If I understand what you want and the slightly different names I see on the web site, it looks like Rare Parts in Stockton has them.

If you are going to keep any of the car somewhat stock, I'd strongly recommend getting a reprint of the factory service manual. A copy of the parts book is a good thing to, turns out that lots of times you can cross the original Chrysler part number to something new even if the vendor's computer doesn't know that if fits on your 48 Plymouth.

Nice photo!

I recall from the service manual and wiring diagrams for the old '82 Plymouth I once had that most of the inputs to the engine control unit (computer) were setup to detect open or shorted wires. That is it expected all sensors and controls to have a resistance within a certain range or it declared the sensor/actuator bad. Sounds like this is the same thing on your relay. I wouldn't be surprised if you could measure the DC resistance of the relay coil and use a fixed resistor of the same value to jumper it if need be.

I "re-found" a Plymouth in my garage recently too. The previous fill was nearly four months ago, so decided it had been long enough on the gasoline in the tank so took it for about a 50 mile drive to take it down some then filled it. Here's hoping for a change in the weather pattern so you guys back east can get a break from the cold and snow and we can get some rain and snow to fill our reservoirs.

A "Fine And Tremendous" (FAT) asset to the forum?

So the bearings not done until the fat man's sung? I guess I'm not a real man. Got used to needing disposable gloves for "body substance isolation" on first responder work and now I use them in the garage too. Makes clean up really, really easy. And I don't get grease on the steering wheel on that test drive to see if everything is working correctly.

Looks like the bushing is totally worn out from lack of lubrication. A new "Silent-U" spring shackle kit should have new bushings included with it. It can be a bear getting the old ones out but one of our members has posted some YouTube videos on the process using an impact wrench.

On my car the one with the big hole goes on the steering column side and the pitman arm (or whatever it is called) extends through it.

Says they repair temperature gauges on their web site. But you can also replace a missing bulb yourself: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

At least on my older engine, there are two mounts at the rear. One on either side of the engine/bell housing. When they first came out with "Floating Power" they actually had a small leaf spring at the rear of the engine to take the torque. I guess they later decided the rear rubber mounts were enough.

I recall reading in my parent's old 1963 edition of the Encyclopedia Britannica that above a 8:1 compression ratio on an L-Head engine breathing/flow difficulties outweighed any gains one might have from the increased compression ration. Thus the demise of the L-head engines was due to the availability of gasoline with an octane rating high enough to to make compression ratios higher than 8:1 feasible. But it also seems, if that article was correct and my memory of it correct, that going above 8:1 compression when modifying an old engine is just trading off one limitation for another with no real gains and as pointed out adding other areas of possible failure like the head gaskets.

Yep. Heard that the farms with senior water rights, typically the east side of the north and central part of the valley, will get maybe 80% of their normal allocation. And the farms with junior water rights, typically the west and south parts of the valley may get way less. Enough less that they really can't grow anything. I expect the cities to meet the 20% reduction in use the state wants. But since 80% of the water in the state goes to farming that reduction in the urban areas is only saving about 4% (20% of 20%) of the total use.

Done any look up on those names? The weather people have been using "polar vortex" since the 1950s internally just the popular press never took it up. Don't know about other parts of the country, but the National Weather Service 7 day forecast is correct here a lot more than half the time. It is actually remarkably good given that there aren't a whole lot of reporting stations to the west of here in the Pacific where our weather generally comes from.

Which explains why I only see the site specific ones (Roberts, Bernbaum, etc.) as I have blocked Google AdSense.

Gas fumes are heavier than air and will collect in a floor pit. You'll want to properly engineer a ventilation system designed for explosive environments for that to be safe. Visited a fellow once who did it the easy way. As he had a hilly lot, his "pit" was actually just a slot cut out of the fill he used to level off the area so it had a slight downslope to the outside. But if you have a flat piece of land to work with you'll need something with mechanical ventilation.

Is that can there to catch any loose electrons that come loose when your remove the starter?

Just went to my favorite better auto supply to get a couple of items and found that they've just gone out of business. Time to find another place that has the old guys hidden behind the paper catalog racks that can order by match or odd ball part number rather than rely on a computer to look up make, model and year. Sigh.