TodFitch

Back in that day, GTK did a "forum refresh" periodically where the current posts were saved to PDF and all posts reset. Not sure how many times he did that. The older forum PDFs were around as downloads. I haven't noticed links for those old PDFs. I guess GTK has them somewhere and maybe he'll make them available again if enough people ask.

Should be able to pick one up at NAPA. Sorry, don't have a cross reference number for it. Worse comes to worse, get some gasket stock material and a cut one out.

One of the big reasons why I prefer stock. Parts may be hard to find but you know what you are looking for.

My local better auto supply, happens to be a CarQuest, has filter bowl gaskets in stock. There are a few different sizes so you should take something along to match up. I took the glass bowl when I got a gasket for mine.

When I had a '63 D200 I picked up a '66 Dodge truck factory service manual. The had the rebuild information for the L-6 engine in there, listed as only used in, if I recall correctly, the WM600 model trucks. Should have kept that manual but I sent it off with the truck when I sold it.

Missed that, they had them in '33 along with silicrome exhaust valves. Pulling out some of the sale literature, here is what they thought the selling points were in '33: Alloy valve seat inserts T-slot alloy pistons removable connecting rod bearings full pressure lubrication precision type main bearings fuel pump with air dome floating power engine mountings four bearing counterweighted crankshaft four rings per piston crankcase ventilator drilled oil passages silcrome exhaust valves downdraft carburetot automatic manifold heat control accelerator pump on carburetor air cleaner and intake silencer ventilator air cleaner oil filter silent timing gear chain

In 1933, the first year for the L-6 for Plymouth, features included: 1. Cam ground aluminum pistons 2. Modern thin shell insert type bearings for main and rods 3. Full pressure feed lubrication 4. Oil filter 5. Crankshaft impulse neutralizer

Could it be fan noise?

Don't know about the generator but I went through a bunch of water pumps until I figured out that I was adjusting the belt too tight. What works for me is to loosen up the bolts on the generator, let it settle by gravity, and then tighten all the bolts. At most pressing down on the generator with a couple of fingers. Belt seems very loose based on modern car standards but it does not seem to be slipping (cooling system works great, generator charges properly, no glazing on belt or pulleys, etc.). My car has the older wide belt. I don't know if you'd need to tighten the newer thin belt more or not.

I find that the headlamp I use for camping is pretty useful while working on the car.

Haven't got a clue about the five speed, but a stock P15 should be able to cruise at 65 with its original three speed, not 45.

The space on my car is some non-metallic material and I believe if it were missing I'd have a lot more problems with fuel percolation when I stop the engine. Without it you may have a hot restart problem. I would not be surprised if one for Chevrolet would fit. However be careful: There may be a vacuum port hole in it (I don't have mine off and don't remember for sure). I've heard of people creating those spacers from hard wood.

Could well be. Doesn't help on my search though, only thing is a post from 2008 mentioning him posting some years earlier. I did not make copies of the original forum so I hope you can find them.

Some years ago there was a member on this forum who posted a torque and bhp vs RPM curve for a early 50s (I think) engine. Apparently his father was an engineer with Chrysler and it happened to be one his father kept. But I can't find it in the forum using the search function. That is the type of thing I would have saved off the forum, but I can't find it on my computer nor where I usually keep print outs of that type. Does anyone else remember that?

Modern cars have thermostats that opens at a lot higher temperature than yours. The one in our 2001 is spec'd to start opening at 199°F. When it is cold out and there is no load on the engine you're likely to find the coolant temperature isn't even to the thermostat spec. For example, I've got a 160°F in my '33 but most of the time in "winter" (term used loosely because of my location) the temperature on my gauge is 140° to 150° (I calibrated the gauge so I'm pretty sure of those numbers). Basically if the cooling system is in good shape and the ambient temperature is low, the thermostat only barely cracks open. So the coolant into your heater may be 50° or 60°F lower on your truck than it is in your new(er) vehicles. That makes a big difference. If you throw in a 180°F thermostat you heater will be more capable.

Maybe GTK has a way to do that but for an ordinary moderator the only way to do that is to download the image and then re-upload it. That would give the credit for it to the moderator. It would be best if James did the upload so he gets acknowledgement of the source.

The number in your photo looks up to be: Serial Number: 76608128 Found in range: 76591001 to 76610490 Serial: 17128 of 19490 Year: 1954 Make: Chrysler Model Name: New Yorker Model Code: C63-1 Engine: OHV V8 331.1 cu. in. Wheelbase: 125 1/2 inches I was thinking that your registration paperwork was showing the engine number as it starts with a Chrysler engine number looking prefix (C54) but if my lookup is correct the engine number should start with C63 instead. Engine numbers are often stamped on the driverside frame rails but the locations varied a bit with year and I don't know where it would be for 1954. Also, 1954 is about the time the Chrysler started flirting with VIN style numbers so the numbering scheme may not match the earlier serial number based methods nor the later true VIN numbers. Sorry I can't be more help.

This was posted over at the AACA forum. I thought it would have some interest here too:

Quote? What quote.

Sent to me by a fellow at work: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1006616

If you care, '33 standard sized connecting rods are 600731 for 1,3,5 and 600732 for 2,4,6. There is a different pair of numbers for 0.010 undersized.

Parts book has listings for "Connecting Rod Assembly (less bearings)" and lists two numbers. One for cylinders 1-3-5 and the other for 2-4-6.

Based on the part number I'd guess it was first used in the 1934 through 1937 time frame. No clue on the application though.

Slightly off topic but. . . Have any of you heard of the outside visors as being seasonal? As a child I recall Dad installing a visor on a car each spring and removing it each fall. Maybe he was the only one to do that. Or maybe it was a regional thing. Or maybe my memory is just wrong.

Wonder if that ranch was in California. Seems like either arroyo or barranca are the terms used in Southern California. In Southern Arizona it would be a "wash".