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About oldschool47

  • Rank
  • Birthday 05/24/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Stratford, CT
  • Interests
    Mountain biking, surfcasting, old cars and swap meets, Rockabilly, 40's 50's 60's music,
  • My Project Cars
    1973 Cadillac Calais Hardtop RIP
    1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe P15

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    First P15, learning the ropes
  • Occupation
    Middle School Music Teacher

Recent Profile Visitors

320 profile views
  1. While on the topic of fluid I have a local source for straight weight motor oils. Took me forever to find and the guy was within a mile of my house lol
  2. I'll message you one of the best guys in the area to work on your fluid drive. He rebuilt my entire brake and fuel system and has a dozen classics he has completely redone.At the very least you can drive by and describe to him your issue and he can give you advice on the next step. I live a few towns over from New Haven and he is in Oxford up on Route 8 about 20 minutes away. Hope this helps...he is the most knowledgeable mechanic I can think of for these cars.
  3. Hello all! Searched on Google, searched on here. Unless I didn't search the whole site I was wondering if anyone had suggestions. My dilemma is I understand 15's are a dime a dozen and plentiful with options. I have some fairly fresh rubber and I am hesitant to switch over at this moment. Yes my bias ply rubber bands wander with any rut on these thin treads. I do like the aftermarket full moons I have but I would eventually loooooooove to find some single flippers. Scarce isn't the word. Suggestions please? Nobody seems to sell or have anything for 16".Thanks!
  4. Juspasinthru any work done in the front springs did I miss that part? I love this stance!
  5. I think that is why I didn't get any results. Thanks...I'll adjust my search. Trust me I tried to use it ! Sorry guys...thanks for the replies
  6. If there are any other threads on the subject let me know, I couldn't find anything myself unless I typed the wrong keywords in. Bottom line is other than rainy days this car seems to run consistently well despite some slight hesitation here and there after a full carb rebuild.
  7. Thanks for all the great responses I definitely have more homework to do. Basically installing it in my other car was fine once you get the gaps straight. The improvement in MPG was minimal around 1-2 but the big improvement was in idling and throttle response. With a low compression flat six I know the way to go is the cam/dual carb/exhaust but at the moment anything I can do to help enjoy a stock setup and possibly increase reliability would be a plus. Plus I just put $2500 into fixing previous problems I didn't know existed DOH! Definitely though if I hold on to her as long as I predict my motor will get a proper teardown and rebuild with Don's suggestions. The other thing is Pertronix is pretty much plug and play and going back to points or stock is simple enough other than running the wires out and all.I remember having to open up the gap quite a bit for all the plugs but that isn't a big deal. I have to say since purchasing this car in September it has been a blast learning so much about these cars and their knowledgeable owners!
  8. Hello all! I have a great running non smoking, not knocking, honest stock P-15 with a recently rebuilt ball and ball and extensive tuneup. Other than a worn cam lobe for my fuel pump (running a key on electric in conjunction) the car is great. In a different vehicle I have used Pertronix ignition with great results and throttle response. Yes a 472 V8 Cadillac is a very different animal but could my P-15 stand to gain a bit more power if I replace the condensor and coil with a hotter than stock unit? Could this cause trouble with a hotter spark in the long run on a 12V converted car? Here are the specs and improvements over stock.... Delivers twice the voltage to the spark plugs, increasing horsepower, fuel economy, and spark plug life 2:1 improvement over points in current fall time for increased coil output Rotating cobalt magnets trigger a Hall Effect integrated circuit . ...no points to burn, ...no moving parts to wear out Epoxy molding makes our module impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture Fits entirely inside the distributor No "black box to clutter the engine compartment Stable timing ...no need for any adjustments Will trigger most multi-spark CD ignitions Use with Flame-Thrower® 40,000 volt coil for optimal performance (INCLUDED) Available for 6 and 12-volt negative and positive ground systems Thanks in advance for any advice regarding this ignition/spark system. Matt
  9. Thanks guys this clears up a ton! Going to my storage unit to locate my manual. So it isn't so much that my fuel gauge may be getting the wrong voltage but my #1 wire could be open? Thanks again I'll try to reground them to the frame and see if there is a difference. Also if I am reading WAY FULL instead of just F I probably have a grounding issue not a voltage issue? Thanks again Tod/Don!
  10. Sorry having trouble uploading the rear of the gauge...and of course my shop manual is missing.
  11. Hello all! Well... I ran out of gas. And I think I know why. NO GAS! I have a new gas tank and what I believe is a 6v/12v sending unit. My car is a 12v conversion. Car will read super full at the gauge and will read at 1/2 full, actually be dead empty. There are three leads to the gauge which from the harness I am 100% sure are properly hooked up. Two leads up top one on bottom. Which lead do I need to reduce the voltage of to get my gauge to read correctly at the dash? I am positive I am so close to this solution.
  12. Thanks! I'll locate one but as you mentioned it may be internal.
  13. What a great site thanks for the add! I have a mostly original 47 Special Deluxe I have been gradually been improving and fixing for a few months now but I have run into an unusual problem. The car was previously converted to 12v. 35 amp alternator modified to fit properly. Car idles and runs great and gauge reads that is it charging fairly well. All lights surge no matter the speed of the car or idle. Replaced negative cable and battery holds a charge well. Time to rebuild the alternator? Should I pull the negative at idle and see if car dies? Should I rebuild it with a higher amperage? Thanks! Matt
  14. Good morning everyone...first time poster and proud recent first P15 owner! I too have the dreaded speedometer chatter...35-40mph is BRUTAL listening to her chatter! Just to be clear I can shoot some aerosol Kroil lightly into the back of the speedo or through the wicking area port and relube with a light oil? I relubed the speedo cable with a heavier grease to hopefully reduce some chatter but it didn't help so I am positive the speedo is the culprit. I was also concerned the Kroil (after just a spritz or two) would damage any sensitive bulb connections or something electrical in the speedo itself but I could be wrong. The speedo moves and jumps freely so do I need to simply just put the light weight oil in? Would it reach the part of the speedo that desperately needs lubrication? Is electric spray contact and motor cleaner a safer bet or am I totally off here? Thanks guys...bear with the noob for a bit....I will learn fast!
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