TodFitch

I strongly suspect that enough of the grease used in lubricating the joint will migrate to the leather and work as a waterproofing agent.

Please keep requests for parts and offers for parts in the classified ads area.

There are several different styles of leather boots that I have seen. The fanciest one had an inner cone that snapped together and the outer portion overlap on the leather was held with some bend over metal tabs..

I had a car with a marginal coil. When the coil was cool the engine would start and run fine. When the coil got hot it no longer produced any spark and the engine would die. The way it died was similar to an engine running out of gas so my trouble shooting was always first directed at the fuel system. By the time I got to checking the ignition the coil had cooled down enough to start working again. Took me months to figure it out. Anyway, my lesson learned was that a coil can cause issues that may be temperature related.

You seat/seal a dome style welsh plug by putting it in place then flattening the dome. With that in mind, the dome side must be away from the king pin. Your factory service manual should give you the specs for shimming the thrust bearing.

I am not well schooled in translating different tire sizes so take this with a grain of salt. The number after the "R" is the rim in inches. So that will be the same as the "16" on your "600-16" tires. Many (most?) of the tires of that era had an aspect ratio of 80% to 85%. I think that is the second number on the modern sizes. So you are looking at ???/85R16. Not sure but I think a 600-16 typically had about a 28" to 28.5" "mounted diameter". Looking at a tire calculator website and playing with some numbers to get the diameter right. I think a 185/85R16 would be close. If they make it. That site suggests a 205/75R16 as a possible substitute. It is over 3/4" wider than the 600-16 so there might be some clearance problems and it is not clear to me if it would require a wider rim. Looking at the usual antique tire websites (Lucas, Coker, Diamondback, etc.), I think some of them have radial tires listed in the old style sizing. You might want to check on those options (might be more expensive than the discount tire place down the road from you). Speaking of the discount tire shop down the road from you, if it is a good one they can probably help you figure out a modern size that will fit your rims and have enough clearance on your suspension.

Gentle reminder: Any request or offer of parts must be in the ads, not one of the general forums.

You beat me to it.

The numerical index for the 1936-48 Plymouth Parts books shows part 1163939 being on both page 121 (parts group 8-39-3) and page 126 (parts group 8-50-175). Looking at page 121 under "Head Lamp Beam Indicator" for "Cars with Direct'n'l Lamp", that part is used on 1941 P11 through 1948 P15 except for 1941 PT125 where a star indicating "not used" is shown. I guess the Plymouth trucks didn't have turn signals. Page 126 shows the part as "Directional Signal Indicator Lamp JEWEL Ass'y" with the same applications as above. All that said, most of the parts for 1941 are below 1100000 so it might be that this is a post-war part made available to pre-war cars. I guess you would need a year specific parts book published the year your car was built to know that for sure.

See: https://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

A decent hardware store should be able to sell you a thread gauge. And, assuming they used something reasonably as far as diameter, a good scale or set of calipers should get you the diameter.

Broderick Crawford and Buicks are the first two things that come to my mind when I am reminded of that TV series.

My parts books show that for the P10 two different sets of rear brake cylinders were used based on serial number of the car. Unfortunately, other than original Chrysler part numbers, I don't know anything about the cylinders.

The Colorado River Basin is fed from Colorado, Utah and even, I think, Wyoming. Maybe some from Idaho too though I think that area is more likely to drain into the Columbia River. So hope for lots of rain, or better, snow for those areas. Snow melt is more likely to soak in and help the local area where it fell while rain is more likely to run off. Snow level has been pretty high here in Southern California. Most recent storms seemed to have snow above 8,000 ft. Again, better if it was a bit colder to get the snow level down to maybe 6,000 ft. Again, it soaks in better and provides moisture longer into the spring and summer.

Serial numbers were assigned in blocks to various assembly plants so you can tell what the engineering code (type) of car it was, where it was assembled and where it was in the production run. From your serial number: Serial Number 9852467 Found in range 9850446 to 9858536 Serial 2022 of 8091 Year 1948 Make Dodge Model Code D25 Plant Windsor Engine 6 cylinder L-head Wheelbase 117 inches Note Canadian Dodge version of US Plymouth P15

No, it should just be a smooth cylinder. That one must have had a lot of metal to metal rubbing to get that bad. I guess it could be spray welded up then machined to size but it will probably be cheaper to find a replacement from somewhere.

The pedal going very high and tight is a classic symptom of the relief port in the master cylinder either being clogged or that the piston cup is not clear of the port when the brake pedal is released. I'd check the length of the push rod going into the master cylinder to assure there is a slight gap to the piston. The pedal should move about 1/2 to 1 inch before the rod contacts the cylinder. The other thing to check is that the relief port in the master is not clogged with some debris.

And how many towns in the western US are named after towns in the eastern US (which were often named after towns in England).

On those occasions where I had a dry fuel system I have been able to simply remove the spark plugs (to reduce the load on the starter) then crank the engine over, in 15 second spurts with a cool down between, until I saw fuel filling the sediment bowl. Then install spark plugs and attempt to start. As long as there are no leaks in the plumbing and the pump is in good shape this should work.

Do you have an original parts book? It is amazing how often the original Chrysler part number can be looked up on Napa Online and return a modern part cross reference.

To me, the key item in that thread is the link to the Timken documentation. That link (stripped of Google tracking cruft) is: https://www.timken.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/5556_Bearing-Setting-Brochure-1.pdf And in that document, the section that applies to us says:

I have never used a torque setting for tapered roller bearings as used on the front wheels of every RWD Plymouth I’ve ever worked on. While rotating the wheel, tighten the castle nut until there is slight drag on the wheel. Then back off to the first position on the castle nut where you can get a cotter pin in.

The lubrication chart in the 1936-42 Plymouth Factory Service manual seems to show the front brake hoses going to a fitting to the rear of the centerline of the front wheels. But that illustration is quite cluttered and its primary purpose is to show lubrication points so I could be interpreting it wrong. There are also some photos/illustrations in the brake service section that seem to show the hoses going to the rear of the wheel cylinders. I am not an expert on the 1939 models but my strong impression from the service manual illustrations is that the hoses should go to the rear, not to the front.

A weak coil could cause symptoms similar to what you describe.

FYI, my 33 Plymouth is registered in California using the serial number.