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TodFitch

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Everything posted by TodFitch

  1. Do you have an original parts book? It is amazing how often the original Chrysler part number can be looked up on Napa Online and return a modern part cross reference.
  2. To me, the key item in that thread is the link to the Timken documentation. That link (stripped of Google tracking cruft) is: https://www.timken.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/5556_Bearing-Setting-Brochure-1.pdf And in that document, the section that applies to us says:
  3. I have never used a torque setting for tapered roller bearings as used on the front wheels of every RWD Plymouth I’ve ever worked on. While rotating the wheel, tighten the castle nut until there is slight drag on the wheel. Then back off to the first position on the castle nut where you can get a cotter pin in.
  4. The lubrication chart in the 1936-42 Plymouth Factory Service manual seems to show the front brake hoses going to a fitting to the rear of the centerline of the front wheels. But that illustration is quite cluttered and its primary purpose is to show lubrication points so I could be interpreting it wrong. There are also some photos/illustrations in the brake service section that seem to show the hoses going to the rear of the wheel cylinders. I am not an expert on the 1939 models but my strong impression from the service manual illustrations is that the hoses should go to the rear, not to the front.
  5. A weak coil could cause symptoms similar to what you describe.
  6. FYI, my 33 Plymouth is registered in California using the serial number.
  7. To the best of my knowledge, the serial number is not stamped anywhere on the car and is only present on the tag on the front passenger door hinge post. On my 1933 PD the original engine number, not serial number, is stamped between the running board supports on the outside of the driver (left) side frame rail.
  8. I haven’t looked closely at the P15 era master cylinder but my impression is the cap is a threaded plug. If so, can you get a spare plug and create the needed adapter from it? That is what I did for my 1930s master cylinder which has a pipe threaded breather attached to the cover plate.
  9. Friendly reminder: Requests or offer of parts must be made in the classified ads area.
  10. Proper tool is available for cheap at your local auto supply store. That said, a loop of fairly strong cord can be used for spring removal. Just put the loop behind the spring and bring the two ends out by the shoe then pull.
  11. [begin rant] Not just these days. I purchased a new Jeep Cherokee with a manual transmission in the early 1990s. In fairly short order the hydraulic clutch failed and the dealer and Chrysler refused to fix it under warrantee as it was part of the clutch system which was specifically excluded. I am well aware that an idiot can burn out a perfectly good clutch in a few minutes and, in general, it makes sense that they would exclude clutch parts. But the pressure plate, disk, etc. were all in perfect condition by their word and they agreed that nothing I did could have caused the clutch hydraulic slave to fail. But even though they agreed it was just a pre-mature failure they would not cover it. For what it is worth, on that vehicle the clutch slave was a donut shaped thing that fit over the input shaft to the transmission. So to replace it you needed to drop the transfer case and the transmission, not something I could do laying on my back in my driveway. There were enough other design and manufacturing problems with that vehicle that Chrysler refused to cover that I have not purchased a new Chrysler product since. [end rant]
  12. We installed solar about a year and a half ago. I am tracking costs including interest and figure it will pay for itself in a bit over 5 years. Then for the remaining portion of its 25 year guaranteed life the electricity from it should be free. The investor owned utilities don’t like that and are working hard to change the rules for home roof top solar. California requires EVs sold in the state to have a 150,000 mile 15 year warranty. So I am not too worried about the battery failing as the dealer will have to replace it and the manufacturer will eat the cost. In the meantime I am averaging $0.02/mi in “fuel” costs if I haven’t made some huge mistake in my spreadsheets.
  13. The “Vehicle Number” is the serial number Chrysler used to track the car. My VIN/serial number tool at https://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin has this to say about that number: Serial Number 95511556 Found in range 95509001 to 95513633 Serial 2556 of 4633 Year 1951 Make Plymouth Model Code P23-1 Plant Windsor Engine 6 cylinder L-head The trim and paint codes on your body tag look different than I am used to so I guess Chrysler Canada used a bit different scheme. Maybe one of our Canadian members can shed some light on those. The manufacturer ID plate has no car specific information, just identifying that the manufacturer was Chrysler Canada.
  14. All the door handle and window crank handle retaining pins on my car started their lives as the shanks of nails.
  15. Does the paperwork you have show the engine number or the serial number? Do you know if the engine has ever been swapped out? The Chrysler Historical collection might be able to help here: The have many of the original "build cards" and they store them by serial number. The build card shows the original body number and original engine number so if you can get a copy of that it could help convince the verifier that everything matches up.
  16. On many (most? all?) clutch discs there are coil springs arranged in a circle near the hub. Are those springs offset to one side or the other? If offset the side the protrude on will be away from the flywheel.
  17. On my older car the center of the disc extends farther on one side than the other. If you try to mount it with the thicker side to the flywheel it won’t fit. Maybe the newer ones are the same. . .
  18. See: https://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque
  19. If that is a recent manufacture (or rebuilt) fuel pump, look for the pivot pin to have backed out. Originally I think they were staked but nowadays they just seem to be loosely pressed in. The better rebuild kits have a longer pin with some way to secure it. The last one I got had two grooves on the pin and came with cir-clips (sp?) to hold it in place.
  20. Doesn’t sound too much like the dark side to me. That '64 300K sounds like a great road car.
  21. "Hardtop" would be the name for that body type when and where I grew up with in the 1960s. I don't recall seeing a Plymouth hardtop from the early 1950s though.
  22. Off topic but. . . When I was in my late teens and early twenties I was cocky enough to think I could understand anything given a little time and the desire to study it. As I have gotten older I have noticed more and more things that I am certain I will never be able to understand. Most of the "I will never understand this" items are about human behavior. You have just added one more item to my list. Why would anyone think that was a good idea?
  23. And why were the inspection plate screws so corroded if the brakes were recently rebuilt?
  24. You can get a new driveshaft for less that $100 or so? Looks like the tools start at about $85: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=cv+boot+spreader Edit: It looks like there are even lower tech kits: if/when the current boots wear out I will be seriously considering something like this.
  25. Seems like the approximately $65 and a universal boot as mentioned by Go would be cheaper than having a new driveshaft built: Here is what I think Go is talking about:
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