TodFitch

Joe at Sierra Automotive did a very nice job on my brake cylinders Sierra Specialty Automotive 3494 Chandler Rd. Quincy, CA 95971 Telephone: +1.530.283.1886 Fax: +1.530.283.4845 email: joe@brakecylinder.com http://www.brakecylinder.com/

Interior plating was typically nickel, not chrome. The 1933 PD (DeLuxe) was definitely plated with nickel. Passenger side was an option that my car is not equipped with so I can't say for sure on it but I'd be surprised if it was anything other than nickel plated.

At least some hot start problems are due to fuel expanding in the carburetor float bowl and then flowing into the manifold flooding the engine. Setting the float a little lower than spec can help for that issue. If the problem is the fuel pump getting too hot the you can often start the car but then it will die after a little bit and not restart until you cool the fuel pump down.

I think you are careful and thoughtful about how you approach technical issues on cars. Seems like that mitigates the need for luck. Regarding bolts for attaching the ring gear: The 1920s and 30s automotive trade magazine made a big deal about how ring gears should be riveted in place rather than bolted. The reason given was that the shank on a rivet expanded as the head was set and that took out all clearance between the fastener (rivet) and the holes in the ring gear and carrier. My take away from that is that the shanks on bolts used to hold the ring gear in place are probably manufactured to much closer diameter tolerances than generic bolts. Since the numbers for those bolts are not in the standard parts list it makes sense that they are different from generic bolts in some way and I'm guessing that it is a combination of hardness and close tolerances on shank diameter.

If you don't have the specialty tool, looping a piece of strong cord or wire under where the spring hooks into the shoe and pulling works pretty good. The tool does a pretty good job too and is available at pretty near any auto supply store.

That is a fairly famous transformation. At least among vintage Plymouth owners it is fairly famous, I doubt that anyone else would notice.

The part numbers in the "standard parts" section range from 100021 through 193460. All of the numbers posted on this thread are well outside that range. So these were not standard fasteners but ones specifically designed for the application.

Actually it was a little tougher than that: The 50 hour test was at max BHP, so it was at wide open throttle with enough load on the dynometer to keep it at 3600 RPM. So that was 3500 miles of running uphill at 70 MPH...

Sounds like a bad ground on the passenger side lamp assembly to me. (Since it involves two circuits, the headlamp an parking lights. It is only on one side. And the wires, superficially, look okay.) I'd be digging out my volt-ohm meter and verifying voltage at the sockets and connectivity between the housings and ground.

Ouch! I hope that it was not raining too bad during that too. It poured at my house just after I returned home. I don't have a DeSoto parts book, but the 1930s long wheel base Plymouths used part 308282 which is the same number as used on the later 1930 30-U Plymouths through the P1 and P2. P3 and up non-long wheel base Plymouths used part 663481. It might be that your car uses the same bolt as my 1933, but I don't have spares... And I don't have a cross to a modern equivalent.

The Standard Parts List shows that to be a 7/8" Diameter by 5/32" thick carbon steel woodruff key.

If your question is not answered by the time I get home from work, I'll look up this information in my parts books...

Year/Engine number? It might be possible to look up the Chrysler part number with that information and, with any luck, then find the description of that key in the standard parts book...

Finally followed your links to see you have a 1933/34 block with the rectangular water pump outlet and without the full length water jackets. Basically the same engine I have except you've done some nice performance mods. I like how your wood graining came out.

1000 turns per mile on the typical American speedometer/odometer. If your drill turns 3600 RPM that would 3.6 miles for every minute the speedo is on the drill. But you'd be pegging the speedometer at 216 MPH.

Looking good. I thought on a different thread you wrote that it was a later engine but the oil pump looks like a mid-year 1933 version. Is that a '33 engine?

Ditto.

Like he said. I fan out the wires around the whole threaded cap. I do have an aftermarket coil on the shelf that uses a more modern press in connection like you find on the distributor cap but I think all the original had the screw on connectors.

The lab mix I once had (mixed, I think, with Great Dane as he looked like a well proportioned lab but weighed 120 pounds) was a lousy watch dog. He loved everyone. Of course there were some people who were afraid of him just because he was big... Seems like a more territorial breed would make a better guard dog. Our sweet Akita that died a while back, though considerably smaller than the lab, was much better about protecting us and our property. But some breeds bring on the need to be careful about liability...

Starting two threads at the same time on this? Its been covered many times before, maybe we ought to have a sticky thread on it. Grousing over, I believe that you can run the engine continuously at 3200 to 3300 RPM. Assuming, of course, that it is in reasonable condition to start with. Depending on your tire size and rear end ratio that is around 65 MPH on the cars for most years. Trucks are typically geared differently so the speed there may be different (probably lower).

My engine leaks more after it was rebuilt than it did before. Unfortunately the main culprit seems to be in the area of the chain case in front. And to get to that I have to pretty much pull the whole front end of the car apart. I do wish I'd been as smart as Don Coatney and run the engine on a stand first to check for issues and fix them before the engine went back into the car.

My solution was that I had 98000 showing on the odometer when I rebuilt everything. So when it rolled around to 00000 I figure I just had the engine broken in and was ready to start counting miles. Not sure if that was 98,000 or 198,000 or 298,000... Probably 98,000 because the original factory standard size pistons were in there with CPDP stamped on them. Must have been hard miles though based on the condition of the running gear and body.

Probably would slow them down by a couple of minutes.... I know a fellow with a number of early 60s slant 6 A bodies who found an otherwise perfect gas tank that had been punched to drain it when the car was junked. Turned out it was the best he could find so he repaired the hole.

http://www.archive.org/details/rough_road_to_panama

Don't know much about school bus design, but the body seems very close to the 1940s and 50s buses that were in service in my school district in the late 1950s and early 60s. I'm wondering if that is really a mid to late 1930s school bus body...