TodFitch

If he doesn't listen to his father he'll listen to a bunch of old geezers?

There are several different Chrysler part numbers over the years for "Accelerator Pedal Button", see http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group14#14-01-18 I am assuming that the one you show is good for the P15 which would make it Chrysler part 945636. If I am wrong, please let me know and I'll update my database. (Thank you for posting that photo and the part number!)

I'm pretty sure I can do that. But I'm pretty sure I couldn't do that when I just got out of HS. Done a lot of studying road maps after I got an old car to tour in. 7x8 is a really odd size for a photograph. 6x8 or 8x10 are more standard I think. It's also not a standard "trim size" for a bound book. So other than 56, I'm not sure what your are getting at here. None on my old Plymouth. It does have 23 lug bolts (4 wheels on the ground at 5 each, and the rear mounted spare is held on with three more).

I've seem messages like that when I updated web server system software so I guessed that a server upgrade was in progress and that GTK knew or would shortly know about the issue.

Whats the matter with kids today?

On a couple of different occasions I spent some time going through CV boot catalogs looking for ones that looked like they'd fit the old Chrysler product ball and trunnion U-joints. There may be one that will fit but I was not able to find it.

Rain-x is marvelous stuff. Makes seeing out of the passenger side of my car possible during a rain storm (only a driver side wiper on the '33). With respect to intentionally driving in the rain, I don't do it often. Mostly because I really have to clean the car afterward and I'm lazy. And of course there is the issue of (lack of) turn signals. On nice days I just have the driver side window down and can signal at will. On rainy days I'm likely to have the window up, so signaling becomes a bit more involved and there will be some water getting into the car.

Actually, the factory had two kits one which had an inner grease retainer and the the outer dust cover. And the leather boots I got last year were setup with an inner cone that snapped into place to provide the grease retainer function. My Quicken entry for buying them in February of 2010 says "Obsolete Mopar" which I think is the business name for Mitchell Motor Parts. I'll grant you that most of the leather boots available are just the outer, but that is not all there were or are.

Let me Google that for you. http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=electrolytic+rust+removal&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 The first two links seem good: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/ I use some scrap sheet metal for my sacraficial electodes and use a 5 gal plastic bucket for the container. I generally leave my battery charger on the 6v setting but I guess that does not matter much. The hardest part for me was finding washing soda. Seems like that is not a popular item in the laundry sections of the local super markets. But one box will last basically forever if all you need is a tablespoon now and then for a new de-rusting solution.

But it seems to be a pretty good opinion.

Front or rear? If rear, the first part of this repair procedure shows drum removal. http://www.ply33.com/Repair/axle_seal

Also on my web site at http://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque

Near as I can tell, all the rubber boots available now are old stock and will fail quickly. I went for leather after having rubber boots fail having just been sitting on the driveshaft after installation but before putting the driveshaft back on the car.

Congratulations on landing a job that sounds like it will be more enjoyable and fulfilling than your last! I consider myself really lucky that nearly my entire career I've worked at jobs I've liked. Sounds like you are getting yourself into that type of position too.

I'm confused. All of the ball and trunion u-joint housings I've seen have four holes for bolting them up. On my parking brake hub there are four studs with nuts for attaching the drive shaft and on the rear axle you use four bolts. Pressing the pin in or out is done off the car. I believe I got my leather boots from Mitchell Motor Parts.

Oops.

Notice that they show the drivers getting in on the passenger side and sliding across to the driver's seat?

At least for cars, lots of states used the engine number for registration purposes. Maybe that is true of trucks as well.

I'll have to update my on line database to cover more model years on this, but I think the ones in the block were the same for a lot of years. So yours are probably http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group9#117924

Unless you mostly use it like I do, with the ignition off and the spark plugs out to rotate the engine to TDC so I can set the point timing. The few times I've actually started the car using the crank, I have been careful to have my thumb on the same side of the handle as my fingers and to only do a pull on the handle, never a push. Given how rarely my Plymouth L-6 has back fired on starting, I guess you could get away with doing it wrong for years without injury. Now a 4 banger with a manual spark lever set in the wrong position is a whole different animal...

Looks pretty much identical with the hand crank on my 1933 Plymouth.

Way back in the 1970s when I first replaced a clutch and lacked the tool an old-timer at work said he'd always just used a sawed off broom handle. I guess if you can find a wooden dowel the right diameter it would work too.

Impressive project and it looks like it is coming out very nice.

I don't have turn signals either. I do find that a fair number of drivers wave back at me when I'm signaling a right hand turn. I guess they don't realize that I'm signaling.... Not so much a problem with left turn signaling as that is pretty obviously different.

They'd be brighter still if he had them silvered or send off to Ulvira for glass coated aluminum.