TodFitch

Language is always evolving. Sometimes much faster than I'd like... SAE and, as far as I can tell, Chevrolet called the model a "coach". Chrysler used "two door sedan". And, of course Ford coined "Tudor" to go with their also coined "Fordor". One phrase I've heard in recent years that really bothers me is "old skool". Seems to be used to describe things that never were. I shudder when I hear anything described as that.

Don't have any spare for you, but the good news is that part 53553 "Axle Drive Shaft Nut" was used on all Plymouths from 1928-48 (and probably later but that is where my books stop). So pretty much any Plymouth parts car should have one if you can't find a source of new ones. http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group3#3-32-05

My experience with the vacuum bleeder tools has been dismal. Old fashioned "get the wife/girlfriend to pump the brake pedal" works a lot better for me. Even doing it myself by pumping up pressure and relying on the residual valve in the master cylinder to hold a bit of pressure until I get to the wheel cylinder works better for me. The vacuum pump that comes with that kit is good for checking the vacuum advance on your distributor but that is about it as far as my use.

cwcars88 has a very good suggestion for yet another reason: Unless you get a pressure bleeder with appropriate adapters for your master cylinder it is very, very difficult to bleed the brakes yourself. Having a club member who knows how to do the work will allow you to learn first hand and also give a second person to pump the pedal as required when bleeding the system. And regardless of the root cause of your problem, you will need to bleed the brake system if your pedal goes to the floor.

Looks like it is open now: http://www.dot.nd.gov/travel-info/ The nice folks at the North Dakota department of transportation also give links to the highway condition pages for the surrounding states and provinces on this page: http://www.dot.nd.gov/roadreport/roadreport/roadreportinfo.asp

That is certainly the case on my old Plymouth. But it is 15 years older than the ones most talked about on this forum so it might have changed over the years.

I think the more general statement is that businesses exist to make money. For periodicals (newspapers and magazines) generally, but not always, get most of their income is from advertisements. There are a few magazines out there that get the bulk of their income from subscriptions (Skinned Knuckles appears to be one), but for most magazines the only point of the "editorial content" is to be sufficient to deliver the ads (i.e. get you to buy or subscribe). I've heard that advertisers generally require that their ads be unmodified by the magazine publisher. The result of this is that a full page ad cannot/will not be over printed with page number information. Since the majority of most magazines pages are ads, the majority of pages will not have page numbers.

Been a long time since I've thought about that. First cut would be that the pressure should be 14.7 psi (1 ATM) times the compression ratio. Which would lead you to think that a 6.5 CR should have a 95 psi compression reading. But when you compress air it gets hot. I don't know what the number is for a fuel/air mixture but for straight air you'd need to take the CR to the power of 1.4. So for a 6.5 CR you'd have 202 PSI which seems very high. So then I got confused and did a web search. Turns out, if my search pulled up a good source, that the rule of thumb "in the real world" is that the compression test should be somewhere between 15 and 20 times the CR depending on valve timing, design of the rings, etc. So a 6.5CR should have a compression test (depending on engine design) between 98psi and 130psi. Given the relatively low tech head design and non-racing cut of the cam, it seems that the 110psi given in your table is reasonable. But the other numbers don't match up the same. 6.5CR => 98psi to 130psi versus 110psi 7.0CR => 105psi to 140psi versus 120psi 7.5CR => 112psi to 150psi versus 130psi 8.0CR => 120psi to 160psi versus 140psi Looks like your chart used the formula PSI = (CR*20)-20 or PSI=(CR-1)*20... Probably a reasonable set of numbers but I would not be surprised for our L-head engines using 1930s technology (updated to 1940s in your case) would yield numbers on the low side of this.

I cheated and took mine to the local brake/friction/clutch shop (the one the professional mechanics send their work out to). Found it in the yellow pages. Of course that was years ago when we still had a yellow pages book around the house.

Oh yes' date=' I also remember those prices[/quote']And I assume that you remember the wages you made back when gas was that price...

That is, in my opinion, the correct way to approach this. 100 miles is within range of a "free" tow home if you have the AAA+ card, so you are just out your time if there is a mechanical problem. And it gives you a feel for how good the condition of the car is before you venture further afield.

Should be the same location from the late 190 cu. in. engine in 1933 through the 201s, 218s and 230s. Might have changed the bolts and springs, etc. But the location should be the same. Early and mid year 1933 190 cu. in. have a totally different setup but that should not affect you.

Chrysler also issued supercedence (sp?) lists. I've seen them come up from time to time on ePay and been tempted to acquire them.

Going into lots of detail is common on hoaxes as it lends credibility to the story. Overall, it sounds like a hoax to me but I was not able to find out information on this one way or the other.

Get back from the pristine mountains and good skiing to find that a relative newbie it getting grief about an area that is fairly simple but different than one working on newer (last 50 years) is used to... 1. Your 230 came with either no oil filter or with a bypass type filter. 2. Bypass type filters take some oil from the block, filter it, and return the cleaned oil to the pan. 3. Because there is no immediate harm done to the engine if the bypass filter clogs up, it is possible to fit a filter that removes much smaller contaminants than a full flow filter. Though in practice the filter element fitted don't always filter that finely. Still, the possibility is there. 4. On Plymouth/Dodge (and I assume other bypass filter fitted Chrysler products) since late 1933, the return line from the bypass filter to the pan goes through a passage built into the oil pressure relief valve so that if the pressure to the engine gets too low, the flow through the filter is restricted or shut off. So the pump will never have to "work too hard" (what ever the heck that means for a positive displacement gear type pump). Mostly it means that you will have good pressure to the bearings when the engine is at hot idle. For "modern" technology, if a full flow filter becomes clogged the engine could be run without oil. A very bad thing. So all full flow filters come with a built in bypass valve that opens if the pressure differential between the input and output gets too high. This means a couple of things: 1. The filter media has to be more porous. So all oil goes through the filter but the filter is not as good. 2. You don't want the bypass valve to open because if it does all the gunk the filter did trap will be dumped into your engine. 3. Since you don't know how much dirt is in your filter and you don't want the bypass to open, you should change your filter at every oil change. 4. Full flow filters are designed to be thrown away. That is the are designed to be cheap to sell which means they are cheap to manufacture which means they are likely to have cheaply made bypass valves. Google around for that and you will find that some brands of filters are wretched and have leaky bypass valves to begin with, so the filter is doing absolutely nothing. What it comes down to is the full flow oil filter system is different than the bypass oil filter system. One is not better than the other on all counts. Do some more Googling and you'll find that the people who really care have both a full flow system AND a bypass system on their engines.

The 947450 looks like a part number. Agree that the DPCD stands for Dodge,Plymouth,Chrysler and Desoto

That is one photogenic pooch. Why is that calendar so empty of handwritten notes? No doctor appointments, no errands to remember? You must be retired and have nothing better to do than just drive around taking photos everyday.

I don't remember how that is put together on those "new cars" from the late 1930s and 1940s, but on the first generation downdraft B&B fitted to the early cars like mine, the actuation of that enriching circuit is via a brass piston in a pot metal cylinder inside the carburetor. Between wear and years of pot metal aging, that piston no longer worked in my carburetor. The problem manifest itself as a starvation issue when transitioning from the idle circuit to the main jet circuit. Thought it was the accelerator pump at first but it turns out the pump was working. Too much clearance between the piston and cylinder, which was dealt with by grinding a groove in the piston and fitting an O-ring. Two take aways: Just because it is hooked up correctly does not mean it is working, so it might be worth putting a vacuum pump on it and watching the operation. Second take away is that in the case of my car, the mileage was not affected. I drive my 1933 pretty hard and it has the original 4.375 rear end and 190 cu.in. engine. It also has the aerodynamics of a barn door. With all that against it, I've been getting between 14 and 18 MPG depending on speed, load, etc. The 1940 should have the 201 with higher compression (i.e. better volumetric efficiency) and a 4.11 rear end. It is also a bit more rounded body shape. I'd expect mid to high teens for MPG if you drive it like I do and maybe into the low 20s if you are gentle or put an overdrive on it.

It is my impression that "conservation" in the art world means stabilizing the item to prevent it from further deteriorating using materials and techniques that are known to be reversible. The concept being that past efforts at "restoration" (i.e. attempting to return the item to original condition) have sometimes been found to actually be harmful to the original item. Totally disassembling a vehicle, cleaning, refurbishing, refinishing and/or replacing many or even all the parts still strikes me as "restoration". Changing the vehicle further away from how it was at some time in the past (i.e. changing out the drive train) is not "restoration". It may not be "rodding" but if what you are doing is for safety or reliability, perhaps that activity should be called "updating" or, to borrow a term from real estate, "remodeling".

Looks great!

The fake wood pattern on my 1933 is supposed to be a burled walnut. I was able to do something close enough for me using a base color paint and printer's ink for materials and wads of cheese cloth for the tools. http://www.ply33.com/Repair/woodgrain I think the grained pattern you are trying for is more difficult than what I was aiming for. I really like your imaginative approach and your documentary photos so that others can learn from you as you discover a technique that will give good results. Don't give up! And keep posting the photos.

Could you cut one out of thin sheet rubber from the local hardware store?

I hadn't looked through all the posts on this thread until just now. You've done an incredible job of bringing that car back from the grave. Wow!

"Squirrel!"

Sounds like you are correct about them not being compatible. What vehicle is this for?