TodFitch

I'd schedule a rebuild ASAP. Back in the 1970s I had this happen to me on my 1933 and tried to nurse it along (I was 300 miles from home). In my case, the second time the noise happened the bit of ring sitting on the top of the piston caused the piston to rock enough to break the piston skirt. I was lucky and stopped it before more damage occurred but I can imagine that a rod through the block could easily have happened.

What adjustment hole do you have the accelerator pump set on?

Big project but cool looking when done. How the heck did one get to Sweden? Must be a story there too.

That sounds pretty high to me. Float valve in the carburetor may not be able to close against that.

This is different: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-13160950

See http://goldenstateregion.com/events#376 Also, a write up is on the region's home page at http://goldenstateregion.com/

Based on your most recent post about the symptoms, I think I'd put my money on Don C's post. When I had that happen to me decades ago the initial sounds were at camshaft speed, I guess because it was only making noise on the power stroke.

Also near the #2 cylinder is where the fuel pump lever rides on the cam. If one of the springs in the fuel pump broke then the arm won't ride the cam and it will make some noise. Which brings up the question: Does the noise sound like it is at crankshaft speed or camshaft speed? Might also have a bearing on if it's a stuck valve as that would also be at camshaft speed.

To see if the car is currently 12v, look at the battery. 6v batteries have three cells with three caps for checking the fluid level. 12v batteries have 6 cells and if not "maintenance free" will have 6 caps for checking fluid level.

I don't recall having posted on this thread but will admit to being an avid follower and have looked forward to the posts detailing your journey. I am a little disappointed to have to wait until March of next year to read another thread on your travels in the Dodge.

I do know from reading the factory service manual that I had for my 1963 Dodge D200 that oil bath air filters were used on extreme service vehicles after passenger cars and light duty trucks switched to paper element type filters. Not sure if that was due to better filtration (capturing smaller particles) or if it meant that it did not clog immediately in a dusty environment.

Years ago I had a 63 D200 with a 318 V8 fitted with solid lifters. On that engine the valve lash adjusters were just threaded weird so they were tight in the rocker arms. No other locks to hold them in place. First long trip after I did a valve job, at night crossing the desert to Tucson, the engine started making a hellacious racket. Pulled into a rest stop and slept until morning then I isolated the noise to the driver side valve area. Pulled the valve cover and isolated it to a very loose valve. I did not have feeler gauges with me, so I just adjusted it until the noise went away. Put the cover back on and drove the remaining 200 miles. Once at the folk's house, I pulled the cover and measured the lash: It was within spec. So either I got really lucky, or the spec on that engine was just where the tappet noise goes away. I did pull the adjuster screw out and modified the threads (with a hammer) so that it would not work loose again, put everything back together and never had a problem there again. Anyway, my take away from that experience was that you can get close to the correct adjustment by using your ears.

There is a group of Model A owners in my area that drive their cars to breakfast every Friday who also call themselves "ROMEOS". I guess the term and phrase "retired old men eating out" is more common than I thought. Or maybe it is yet another club.

Could be the distributor is different than Dodge because the engine was designed by different engineers.

I'm surprised that California is not on the list: http://www.mainstreet.com/slideshow/lifestyle/travel/worst-roads-us

I did not see reference to Plymouth parts or the list either and would like to get a copy or a link to where it is on the Metal Rubber web site.

My father got a used 61 Ford for a commute car in the mid-1960s. First car I'd seen with vacuum wipers as all the other cars we'd had were 1950s or newer Plymouths with electric wipers. Don't know when Ford stopped using vacuum, maybe that was the last year...

In the old days a lot of people still used alcohol based anti-freeze solutions. If you use those in a system with a 180°F thermostat, the alcohol will evaporate out and then your engine was unprotected against the cold.

That sounds way too tall for your 1941 201cu.in. engine. I wouldn't go taller than something in the mid to high 3s. 3.9 to 3.7 maybe but I don't know enough about what is out there to give a specific year/make/model recommendation. If most of your driving is at 45 and if your 90 mile once a month trips are okay at 65 MPH, then your current rear end with its 4.11 ratio is probably fine. Your 29" mounted tire diameter sounds a bit tall, but if that is accurate then you'll be turning over 3300 RPM at 69 MPH. Even at a more likely mounted tire diameter of 28" you'll be doing 67 MPH at 3300 RPM. The Plymouth engine design was put through 50 hour tests at max BHP at 3600 RPM before the design was approved. So if it's not worn out it should run just fine at 3200 to 3300 RPM. I've got a 4.375 rear end in my 1933 and if I'm trying to get somewhere in a reasonable amount of time run it between 60 and 65 which works out to between 3200 and 3400 RPM. And my little 190 cu.in. engine does not have the addition 8 years of refinement that your 1941 engine has. See: http://www.ply33.com/Misc/speed

It looks like this thread is now winding its way through tough terrain littered with volcanic debris.

No. It was just Nick's (the POC president) personal email that was hacked. The "on vacation in London" email hack and social engineering scam has been around a few years. The first I saw it was a couple years ago when we got one of those emails from a colleague of my wife. I double checked the email headers and verified the mail was actually from the person's account. My wife tried calling the number given and became suspicious, so we called the colleague's cell phone and found out the real story.

http://www.hellsbellescarclub.com/hbhtml.html

http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/egads

They've been doing that since the 1920s when a salesman named Ned Jordan decided he could build and market a car with nothing more than image: "Somewhere west of Laramie there's a bronco-busting, steer roping girl who knows what I’m talking about. She can tell what a sassy pony, that’s a cross between greased lighting and the place where it hits, can do with eleven hundred pounds of steel and action when he's going high, wide and handsome...." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jordan_Motor_Car_Company

If my notes are correct, the rear axle nuts on my car are 3/4"-16 with a 1 1/8" hex and are 5/8" tall. Dorman lists several castle nuts with the same thread and hex size but a little taller at 13/16": 220-017, 615-002 and 814-067 but they say to look at the application notes for usage. I did not see the notes on their web site so I can't say which might be better. I assume since the physical size is the same there is a material difference. The stock image photo indicates a little different shape to the top where the pin fits than what is on my car. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/campers-world/castle-nut-34-16-for-4-cyc-differential/ezgo00518G8 http://www.gatehousesupplies.com/84-SH-76-Castle-Nut-3-4-16-p/84-sh-76%20%28d%29.htm and http://shop.mccoys.com/hardware/fasteners/anchors/p.33110 all show a castle nut image that matches very closely to the ones on my car. Sounds like you might be able to get that nut at a local auto supply (Dorman) or commercial garage door supply. Of course having a forum member send you a spare is a good way to go too. But if you are in a hurry, maybe some of the above possibilities might get you going.