TodFitch

Agreed that 212F is overheat for a non-pressurized system at sea level running pure water. At altitude it will be lower. But if you are running with anti-freeze it will be higher. An unpressurized 50/50 mix of ethylene-glycol and water will boil at 222F (if I've found the correct references).

I think there is a vendor list on the main section of this web site but I also have one on my web site: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/vendor

I'd like to know too. But I well say that my local automotive machine shop did not charge an excessive amount to do it. So I'd probably still go that way in the future but it would be nice to know of alternative techniques.

The usual suspects for old Mopar stuff. I'd check with Roberts or Mitchell's first and somewhere down the list Bernbaum.

My old GE lamp reference says that a 4015A is a 35w, 6.2v PAR-36 bulb with an amber lens. The 4015 without the A suffix is the same bulb with a clear lens. Looking through my newer Phillips lamp guide for 6v PAR-36 bulbs that are currently available I see: 4510, a 25w "auto utility" bulb. 4511, a 30w "auto tractor" bulb. 4515, a 30w "auto spot" bulb. 4516, a 30w "auto spot" bulb. Maybe you can get one of those and paint the lens with some translucent amber paint from a hobby store....

What makes you think the hydraulic brakes were converted in the 1933 Plymouth DeLuxe Six (engineering code PD)? All Plymouths ever built came from the factory with hydraulic brakes. Did the placard state it has O.D. or were you taking the freewheeling/automatic clutch control to be a O.D. control?

Sounds like the rod from the brake pedal to the master cylinder is adjusted too long. If you look in the master cylinder you will see two holes. There is a very small one that the piston cup must retract back past or you will build up pressure and have the brakes lock.

Turns out the later 1942 P14 also used that same part. I've updated my database at http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group19#19-27-2 to show usage for the "steering arm" a.k.a "pitman arm"

The 1936-48 master parts book shows part 957621 as used for all P15 years 46-48.

The Joplin event is listed on the Wikipedia page for F5 tornados. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_F5_and_EF5_tornadoes It also had this interesting quote:

1271104 also crosses to NOS 18880 at NAPA Online, same as I had for 663602. I've just added 1271104 as a "supercedes" number for the 663602 in my database.... Thank you for the information.

You're probably talking about a 47 Dodge because I don't think that Plymouth offered fluid drive. But if it is a 46-48 Plymouth: 663602 Drive Pinion Bearing Oil Seal Assembly Interchange/Vendor: NAPA NOS 18880 670752 Mainshaft rear bearing oil seal assembly Interchange/Vendor: NAPA NOS 15620 Those, and many other Plymouth part interchanges, brought to you via my database look up page at http://www.ply33.com/Parts/numeric If you are dealing with a Dodge, I'd suggest you get a parts book for it. It is amazing the number of parts you can find at, say, NAPA Online by entering the Chrysler part number and looking up if they have an interchange.

No supposed to I think. But I know I've done it. Fortunately there is a gap where the clutch pedal goes through the floor and a stiff wire with loop can be fed up to hook over the door handle. And on my 1933, you pull the handle down to unlock.

I think if you search the forum you'll find where David Maxwell showed how to renew the speedometer colors on your existing plastic.

I thought that "whistle stop" was a generic railroad term for a small town station where the train only stopped if it was signaled. Too small to have a scheduled stop. I think there are multiple "whistle stop" cafes in every state in the country. I wonder how that Plymouth stayed on the track. Does not seem to have flanged wheels on it. Maybe those carts are attached tightly enough to guide the car... I'd like to know about the story behind those photos.

I think we are dealing with two different requests on the same thread. The 54 Plymouth engine was in the other request. Kind of confusing.

But modern fuel has components that can and do vaporize at temperatures easily found at the location of the fuel pump on our cars on a hot day. And those pumps don't pump gas anywhere as well as they pump fluid. So far my fix for this condition is to pour a little water on the fuel pump to get it me started. Then the air flow across the pump as the car moves down the highway is enough to keep things going. This is a pretty recent development for me and has only happened, so far, when restarting after a long hot drive in 95+F heat. Which, fortunately does not occur where I actually live near but not near the town that claims "climate best by government test". And I did not have this problem prior to the introduction of alcohol into the fuel here. Not sure if that is the direct issue of if there are so few cars with carburetors on the road nowadays that they oil industry just does not worry about volatility like they used to. The higher pressures of fuel injected systems with the pumps located inside the gas tank are not affected by that.

As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, a good wheel puller is probably the one specialty tool that you'll need. The rest is pretty garden variety. At least on my car you can actually get by with a crescent wrench, pliers and a flat bladed screw driver and a feeler gauge. Having a set of socket and open end wrenches does make things a lot easier though.

You mean those little pry bar/chisel/reamer/wedge tools with the handle that is inexplicably designed so that you can rotate the tool with your hand?

Insufficient information... What is the compression? Is it even across all cylinders? How much do the dry readings vary from the wet? What is the oil pressure when warm at speed and at idle? Any indication that its been run too hot? If you don't know the overall condition and you feel obliged to rip it open, I would suggest starting with the valve covers and dropping the pan to clean out the sludge and to get a visual on things.

According to the excellent Dodge truck decoder at: http://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php Serial Number 82192292 Year 1950 Make Dodge Model B-2-B Engine 217.76 Flathead Six Wheelbase 108 Rating 1/2 Ton Engineering Code T172 Plant Detroit, Michigan Build Number 52292 The "P25 297868" looks like an engine number for a 1954 Plymouth to me. Haven't got a clue about the other numbers.

I wonder how that rear engine was cooled, I don't see any plumbing for coolant to or from it...

I wouldn't trust any NOS rubber for a safety critical application. If they aren't visibly corroded or damaged and the piston is still stock diameter should be okay to reuse them. The cylinders I got back from Joe at Sierra are works of art. Almost a shame to hide them inside a brake system instead of mounting them on a display case. I guess if you're a good machinist you could do your own but for me it is "send them off to the pros" and Joe is good.

It is fairly common to use some dielectric grease for that type of thing nowadays but I think that was a fairly recent (last 30 or so years) practice. Seems like it wouldn't hurt and it might cut down on the corrosion/oxidation on the contacts going forward.