TodFitch
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Everything posted by TodFitch
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My understanding is that it takes maybe 5 or 10 minutes. With respect to what type of filter is "best" there are issues with both full flow filters and bypass filters. Seems like those people who are serious about oil filtering use both. And they use a "depth type" media on the bypass filter. Do a web search on "bypass oil filter benefits" and you'll come up with a number of arguments why a bypass filter, especially if used with a full flow filter, is a good thing.
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OT traveling from California to Mississippi any places to visit?
TodFitch replied to 1940_dodge's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Someday I think I'd like to visit this place: http://www.theshadydell.com/ Also in Southern Arizona, this place was discovered after I moved out of the area and sounds interesting: http://azstateparks.com/parks/kaca/ -
I like that idea of using the compression plug for the adaptor to the master cylinder. Great idea!
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But how do you know? I'd say that if there is any perceptible play it is bad. So I agree with ggdad1951 but thought I'd give you the reason too.
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Oil is a global commodity. Going to be tough to reign in that demand in India and China or world wide depletion of the conventional oil fields by coming down on speculators here. On the plus side, I guess, is that I expected gas to be consistently above $5/gal here by now. That is why I bought a "daily driver" eight years ago that has gotten 45 MPG since new. I was wrong on my prediction about prices but I don't really worry about a "measly" $3 or $4/gal because of it either.
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Decades ago during a low budget "shade tree overhaul" I decided I could just replace one piston. Turns out that there was a significant weight difference between the new piston and the other five. Way past the weight variation limits given in my '33 Plymouth's Operator's Manual's standards of adjustment section. Just saying, you shouldn't replace one piston without at least seeing if it's close enough in weight to the others in your engine. Probably just easier to get a matching set of pistons and rings....
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Huh? I don't understand that at all.
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There was a vacuum canister behind the front bumper on the right side for the heat/AC controls on '91 Jeep Cherokee I once had. You can get vacuum check valves at any auto supply store. You can get PVC pipe and end caps at any home center. Between the two you can make as big a vacuum reservoir as you'd like. Just need a place to hide it on your vehicle.
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I'm still waiting for winter to arrive in the Sierra... Seems like water will be a problem later this year unless the weather changes really soon.
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See: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group7#7-42-01
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So the engine runs okay with the brake applied if it is stationary? Per previous posts, I'd look carefully at your electrical system.
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Would this work for you: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/fuelsender.html
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Not sure how your drag link is constructed compared to mine, but on mine there is a threaded plug on the end of the drag link that compresses a spring that holds the outer seat for the ball. There is a long cotter pin that goes through the housing, along the length of the slot in the plug and out the other side to keep the plug from changing positions. I wouldn't be too surprised to find that cotter pin is two or three inches long.
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Annual winter run in Jyväskylä Finland today
TodFitch replied to Uncle-Pekka's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I'm not quite sure that hero is the right word... -
Annual winter run in Jyväskylä Finland today
TodFitch replied to Uncle-Pekka's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Hardy folks in those open cars at -22F. I don't think I'm up for that. Is salt or other rust inducing material used on the roads there? Looks like fairly pristine snow in the photos so maybe not. -
Don't know when they started and it may not apply to the 50's electrical temperature gauges, but the '63 D200 I once had used a device mounted on one gauge to reduce the voltage to the fuel and temperature gauges. It was a thermally driven switch but as I recall it seemed to reduce the effective voltage on the gauges from 12v to around 6v. If they were using something like that earlier then there is a chance that the 12v sending unit was the same as the 6v one. You'll have to check the parts book for the numbers to be sure, but there is a chance...
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Using an acid, even a mild acid like diluted vinegar, to strip rust will probably also eat good metal. I personally like the electrolysis method. Faster than mild acids and less damaging to parts. Chances are you already have the battery charger, a plastic bucket and some scrap metal to use as sacrificial electrodes. All I had to get was some old fashioned washing soda as all we had in the laundry area was new fangled enzyme and/or oxi type boosters. And, from what I've read, there is nothing toxic to plants in the waste solution when you are done so it is easy to dispose of.
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That sounds strange to me. If the choke were functional then I'd expect that there would be a huge difference in how the engine runs, if it can run at all, in various positions of the choke control. Is it really connected properly?
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Glad to hear it has worked out for you.
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OK Pilot housers, explaination needed.
TodFitch replied to greg g's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
It does look to me like the trailing single wheel axle might have been the original front axle for the truck. The current front axle appears to use totally different wheels than the rear. I don't see any control linkages between the cab and the chassis. I guess the steering could have been linked hydraulically and it might not be visible. Same for the clutch. Maybe cable for the throttle... It would be nice if the photo weren't so dark under the cab so some of that detail could be seen. -
All of the "mechanical" type temperature gauges I've seen or heard of work that way. There are electrical gauges that use just a wire to carry the signal but that is a totally different setup than came in older (30s, 40s, etc.) vehicles.
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Use that same cheap mechanical temperature gauge that you bought for the bushing to repair the original. As mentioned by Dan there are some instructions on the web to do that. You can Google "mechanical temperature gauge repair" and click on the first unpaid, non-ad link. Or you can just go to my Plymouth web site directly and navigate to http://www.ply33.com/repair/tempgauge I agree with Dan: If someone had jammed a bolt into the pipe threads on the head you may have to get them cleaned up to get a water tight connection when you go to install the gauge.
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Reinstallation of Pitman Arm
TodFitch replied to Barry Maxwell's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Sounds like they improved the design after they built my car as all the splines on my steering box are identical and it is very difficult to get the pitman arm back on in the exact right orientation. -
I think you are referring to the adaptor bushing that the gland nut on the bulb screws into. I haven't seen them sold separately but there is usually an assortment of them in the universal mechanical temperature gauge packages at your local bubble wrap auto supply store. Last fall the cheapest one in my local store was selling for US$17, so that should be the upper limit to your cost of buying one if you throw everything else in the package away.
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See http://www.ply33.com/Backmatter/lightbulbs http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group18#18-FB and http://www.ply33.com/Repair/lights The 1110 is a double contact bayonet bulb with both high and low beams at 21cp. They were also used on Plymouth from '28 through '34 (on PF, PE used 1116 which had a 32cp high beam and a 21cp low beam). The usual replacement for those nowadays is a #1000 which is 32cp on both high and low. You can also get a direct replacement plug in quartz-halogen bulb for that. See the above links.