TodFitch

Skied in that area a couple of times and visited there a couple of more times in the summer for hiking, etc. I do enough hiking, camping and backcountry skiing that I am fairly good at recognizing terrain. Expecially terrain I've been in before.

If I got it recognized properly, the ski area there would be Winter Park/Mary Jane and you can see US-40 switch backing up to the pass going to I-70.

They do however, along with Home Despot and my local hardware store, have a barbed hose fitting with the appropriate pipe thread for the vent/cap on an original '33/'34 Plymouth master cylinder.

That is an interesting question. . . I wonder if the rubber on the seal face needs a little oil on it to keep from wearing and if so would the outer seal fail. On the other hand if the inner seal is working then you don't need the outer seal. Anyone on the forum know enough about sealing technology to answer?

So 25 feet of chain and a D6 crawler is required to re-install too?

Those who live in the area will know better but my recollection from driving that way in the past is there is a high pass just east of Steamboat Springs. At least in a modern car not too bad, just a long grade. I think my '33 would do that one okay. The steep, winding, difficult one on US-40 is between Winter Park and I-70. Even that would be okay in an old car except for the traffic. I haven't driven US-34 so I don't know how it is. Seems to me that there is another high pass going by US-40 in Utah when you are heading northwest into Salt Lake. But I think if you are going to Helper you are off US-40 by then.

Seems like aluminum would have been on a strategic materials list in 1942 and use of it for trim would be unlikely. But that is just a wild guess.

Depends on the gasket. Don't know what size you need, but here are some NAPA gaskets that are just single rings: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=FPG773_0147594557 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=FPG5019_0314968006 A decent counterman should be able to match up one for you. Or if you have the original Chrysler part number, use the cross reference tool on NAPA Online. You do have a parts book don't you?

Yeah, they seemed to have trade marked that phrase for US50 in Nevada. But I don't recall more than 75 miles or so between small towns when I drove it a few years back. And there was traffic. Not a lot, maybe a car every 15 or 20 minutes. I should have taken a photo of the "next services 100 miles" sign on California 62 just east of Twentynine Palms when we passed it driving the old Plymouths to Tucson in April. And by "no services" they really meant there is nothing. No houses, no cellphone coverage, no traffic, no nothing. Just four old Plymouths, the asphalt and the desert. Much more lonely than US50 in Nevada. I understand there are several sections of the Alaskan Highway with huge distances between stops. Don't know about the traffic there. So, in my opinion, there are other roads more lonely than "the loneliest highway".

Take the bowl to the auto part store. . . The key thing is the inside and outside diameter and the bowl will show them that.

Sure is easy to suggest plans for other people. My car has beam axles and a 4.375 rear end, so I suspect its closer to your '40s truck than a '40s car is in terms of how it drives and the speed it is comfortable at. My round trip to the Tucson show with the other driving in the area was 2113 miles. On the return trip did about 500 miles on first day and about 400 miles on the second day. My take away from that is the car does fine but I'm a lot better off at maybe 250 to 300 miles per day with time for stretching and sightseeing. Whole point of driving the old vehicles is to enjoy them and that is easier if you're not sore from sitting and tired from driving. You do have to drive the old vehicles, not just point them down the road. So plan on that 2100 miles taking at least 5 or more likely 7 days. For those of us who are still working, than means a minimum of two weeks off work. If you are doing that type of trip it makes sense to add in a bunch of seeing the USA. There are a bunch of national parks, historic sites, etc. that you can easily include, so really 3 weeks or a month would be better. For me that means after retirement rather than before.

My "local better auto supply" had fuel bowl gaskets available. Can't remember if they were sent in from the warehouse that day or if they were in stock. There are, I believe, a couple of different sizes. What I know about those gaskets is at http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group14#14-80-05 which is Plymouth centric but if you know the part number for your Dodge you might see the number in there.

Amazing story. The work on my puny little car was at the limit of my patience, skill and resources. The effort on that tank is orders of magnitude greater. I stand in awe of that restoration and, more to the point, the person who did it.

Sources I've seen for the serial number plate simply sell the blank plate. http://www.sears.com/search=steel+letter+number+stamping+set?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools&autoRedirect=true&viewItems=50&redirectType=CAT_REC_PRED Or http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/stamping.html But if you want the character shapes to exactly match the factory original then you will have to do some searching and/or have a custom set made. Be aware that even if you are exactly matching the original plate the laws covering vehicle identification marking may be violated. I toyed with the idea of replacing the serial number plate on my '33 as the original was so covered with paint as to be nearly invisible. I ended up spending some quality time with a Q-Tip and paint remover and made it readable. Still has lots of patina and in no way looks pristine. You, however, have a different problem as your tag is missing.

Experimental TV broadcasts of various types were done back in to the '20s. First normal scheduled broadcast black and white analog TV format in the US, which could be viewed with a any "modern" TV up until they turned off analog a couple years back, was in April of 1939 coinciding with the NY Worlds Fair. According to Wikipedia, the BBC had some sort of scheduled TV broadcast as early as 1936 but it was suspended in 1939 as they worried that the Germans would use the signal for homing in on London.

Don't see anyway to do that. . . Since you've only got two posts so far, both on this thread, perhaps the easiest thing to do would be: 1. Change the display ID on your new account to something you don't care about. 2. Change the display ID on your old account to chopt50wgn

1936-48 parts book lists the "Directional Signal Lamp Switch Ass'y" part type code 8-50-80. Looks like 1942 P14 used the same switch as the P15 but a different housing is listed part type code 8-50-87 for 1941, 42 and 46-48. There is also a listing for the 1941 in that column with a different part number. Actually it tells you to go to note 7 which has a long list of other parts that you are supposed to get at the same time as the switch. Anyway, it looks like factory turn signals were available starting in 1941.

AutoLite wasn't always owned by Ford. And the look I get when I order Delco-Remy parts for my Plymouth (Chrysler used Delco-Remy through 1934, switched to AutoLite in 1935).

Should be tight from the beginning. Don't know where you can get new frame mounts. For my older car I think the only source would be a parts car. Your truck is newer and, I think, interchangable with more years so finding something should be possible. When I had some spring work done in the 1970s the (explititive deleted) shop took a torch and removed one of my rear frame mounts. They reinstalled it with bolts, facing the wrong way so the shackle couldn't pivot. When I had everything apart years later I was able to repair the frame, redrill the mounting holes and rivet the mount back on. End result is I know you can remove and replace the spring mount. Just have to find a source.

If it was properly rebuilt then the synchronizers should be in good shape and the originally specified fluid, which in this case appears to be 10w motor oil, should be okay. Factory engineers weren't dumb they had been using gear oil in years prior but specified 10w for yours. So they knew about both and made a decision. Now, 60 years on, you dig into a never ending conversation, mostly between non-engineers, about what they think. shel_bizzy_48 has it right: "I suppose you could pick one, try it, then change if necessary to the other." But I'd start with the factory recomendation for the first pick.

Definitely possible. Clean off some of that paint or run a ground wire.

My '33 doe not, to the best of my knowledge, have any brass or bronze parts in the transmission or rear. I guess that came later when they added synchros. Or maybe other makes that did not use steel roller bearings through out. So I've used hypoid gear oil for 40 years now with no issues. Anyway, every time I read "don't use hypoid gear oil, it will cause problems" I go out and check the label on the stuff I have in the garage and every time it says it is safe for use in vehicles with brass or bronze parts. I believe that early hypoid oil was achieved using additives that were harmful but it is not clear to me that all current hypoid oil nowadays has that issue. Like greg g wrote, read the label.

If you have cross references a lot of auto stores will have the parts. Just that your application is not in their computers. Were your car a Plymouth you could use my cross reference information. . . Started collecting it 40 years ago reason being that I'd prefer to get my parts at my "local better auto supply".

You have the right attitude about it so I'm sure you'll succeed.

Noticed that too and haven't found a control for it (yet).