hkestes41

I drove my 12V converted car for about 8 months after I installed the OD with a 6V solenoid. I had some wiring issues and changed to a 12V solenoid during resolution of the wiring issues. Bench tested the 6V solenoid after I had the wiring issue resolved and it still worked fine. I then sold it on Ebay and the purchaser informed me it worked well when he installed it in his car. There are threads on the HAMB discussing this issue and several guys say they have been running 6V solenoids on 12V systems for quite some time. So, I would say if you can find a 12V soleniod for the right price buy it. If not then run the 6V until you come across the right deal on a 12V unit.

Bob, You are actually off a week. The HAMB Drags are the weekend of the 22nd. http://www.hambdrags.com/Nationals/index.html

David, Up in post #8 of this thread there is a link to a Tech Post from the HAMB that goes through the steps for making the shroud. Basically you take 2 pieces of plywood, one the size of your radiator core and one about 1 1/2 inches larger diameter than your fan. Use 4 blocks of wood between the 2 pieces of plywood that space the round piece out far enough to leave about 1/2 inch of your fan blade outside the shroud. Then start attaching fabric in the center of the round piece of plywood with staples and work out to the edges pulling the fabric tight. Then work aroud the plywood cut to the size of your radiator core and fold the fabric over the edges and staple on the back side. It is important to get a fabric that has some stretch to it so that you can get it pulled tight over the sides and work the wrinkles out. You want it tight enough that the weight of the fiberglass will not make it droop. Once you have it all stretched around the plywood, mix up some fiberglass resin and brush it on the fabric, then start laying on fiberglass cloth and resin to build up the shroud. You only need to go slightly over the edges on the round part and onto the back side of the core sized part. Once you have as many layers of glass cloth as you want (I did 3) let it set-up. Then drill a hole in the center of the round plywood and use a jig saw to cut out to the edge in a couple of directions so that you can remove the wood. Do the same on the core sized piece. I used my dremel to clean up the edges, then sanded it all, put on a coat of bondo, sanded again and painted. I did have to make a modification once I tried to install the shroud as the lower radiator hose would not let the shroud fit all the way to the bottom. So, i just marked around the hose cut a portion of the shroud out to fit around it. Then I found a heavy plastic cup cut it in half, layed it inside the shroud to make a recess and fiber glassed over it. Did a little more clean up and repainted. There are 2 pieces of aluminum angle that I used to mount it to the radiator supports on either side of the radiator. Really not all that difficult and if you make sure to take into account the lower hose you could have it done easily in a weekend.

My wife said she saw him on the Today Show and he said he learned to drive with the car racing video games. Said that was his favorite thing to do. "Was" being the key word in that statement. Parents said no more driving games.

I had mine originally wired like you with just a toggle switch and it worked fine for a while then just quit working. I bought a new switch, rewired it with a heavier wire, even got another solenoid. Nothing. So, I wired it like Pete has his, per the factory wiring diagram minus the circuit which temporarily cuts power to the distributor and it has worked great ever since.

Just remember the folks "running" this program are the same ones who want to take over 1/5 the US economy with their healthcare reform. God help us.

Finished installing my shroud on Monday just in time to head to the airport. Will need to raise it just a hair as the fan scrubs on the top of the opening when under heavy acceleration. Used some stick on rubber weather strip from Home Depot between the shroud and radiator to seal the gap and prevent rattles. Seems to work well, car ran noticably cooler to the airport Monday afternoon and Thursday evening. Once I move it up a bit and clean up the top edge where the fan nicked it I will be set.

I had posted above a link to a Tech article on the HAMB for fabing a fan shroud. Here is what I came up with using that method. Will have to fab up a couple of brackets and try and get it installed this weedend. Kind of hard to see in the pictures but it has good smooth compound curves so the air should flow nicely through shroud. Was really a pretty easy process. I just worked on it several evenings after work, but it is something that could probably be finished in a good solid day even allowing for the curing time for the fiberglass and bondo.

Right in my backyard, unfortunately my bank account is probably not even big enough for a look-see.

There are several styles of brake switches available. Here is a link to a page from Sachse Rod Shop's catalog here in the Dallas area. They have low pressure hydraulic switches and a couple types of mechanical switches available. http://www.sachserodshop.com/pdf/181.pdf

Might want to consider a fan shroud. Here is a tech post from the HAMB with a very straight forard method to make a custom fit fiberglass fan shroud. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=380196&highlight=shroud I started mine today. Got all the fiberglassing done, now I just need to cut it off the boards, sand, putty, sand, paint install.

Need 3

Anyone have any of the lefthand thread lug bolts they could spare? I ordered some from Roberts on July 11th. When I got home from a business trip this evening I checked the order status online and it still has not been processed. All I can figure is that he is out of stock, but they will not be open again until Monday. If you can spare 3, I will pay for shipping and then will ship the parts from Roberts back to you when I get them.

When I cleaned out my tank I found about a 2/3 of a cup of gravel, a few quarter size pieces of rubber, some broken glass, a popsicle stick, a couple of drinking straws and a fork (unfortunately it didn't match our silverware pattern).

Fred, Check out his thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51399&highlight=home+depot+insulation&page=5 from the HAMB. Starting with pot #94 on the 5th page 63ChevyII does some fairly indepth testing on various methods. I used the home made Lizzard Skin, followed by Peal-N-Seal then a layer of foil backed insulation from JC Whitney and am very happy with the results. I have not done the roof section yet but did everything else inside the car. To make the Lizzard Skin i ordered 2 bags of the micro beads from Wickes Aircraft and mixed it with elastomeric roofing paint from Home Depot. The elastomeric paint is somewhat rubbery when dry so I thought it may help with noise. I live in Texas and the Peal-N-Seal has gone through 2 summers with multiple 100 degree days in a black car. So far I have only one piece of the Peal-N-Seal come loose. That was on the kick panel where the factory had all the large open areas so there was not a lot for it to grip onto. I did use my wife's hair drier to heat the sticky side of the Peal-N-Seal before sticking it down and am convinced that this is the reason it has stuck so well. Again, I am very happy with mine, heat through the floor and firewall were cut significantly as was the noise inside the car. The door also sound much more substantial when they are closed now. Last thig is that some claim Peal-N-Seal smells like tar, I have not had this issue even in the Texas heat.

Some previous owner of my car must have been a Halloween fan as the dash and window surrounds of my Black coupe were painted bright Orange. And they did a mighty fine job of painting the engine.

Bob, Will you be back in Joplin by Aug 22nd (HAMB Drags)? Was hoping we could hook up while I'm in town.

I actually just used vinegar in my radiator this past week. Rmemebered mom always using vinegar to clean the scale out of the coffee pot so thought it might work with the radiator as well. Drained the radiator and removed the hoses from the engine, flushed the radiator with the hose. Plugged the ends of the hoses, filled the radiator with vinegar and let it set for about 7 hours. Flushed with a lot of clean water afterwards. Got quite a bit of crud out the bottom hose when flushing. Never started the engine so didn't circulate the vinegar only used it to clean out the radiator.

Andy, maybe you could have Moose fab up one of his long runner intakes that goes up and over the top of the head but instead of an intake, make it a header. Should have all kinds of room on the other side.

Todd, I have looked at your instructions a few times. I looked for a donor gauge with s similar temp range but all I found were gauges with a much higher range. Would it make a difference to the reading of my repaired gauge?

There is one on ebay right now for $180 bucks. I need one too but I'll be danged if I'm going to pay that much for one.

Don't know if mine was one of the videos you watched but here it is just in case. Running cast iron headers, 2 inch dual exhaust with a cross over, balance tube, H tube what ever you want to call it and 2 14" turbo mufflers. It has picked up a little in volume since the video was taken the day the exhaust was installed, but it is not a big difference.

Nope, don't remember those as I didn't show up on the scene until 61.

OK, the description says "Treated to a cosmetic re-do in the past several years, this car is finished dark blue with complimenting blue and white vinyl seating and a white top." Now I will admit that I am partially color-blind but that thing sure looks pale yellow to me and those don't look like vinyl seats except for the caps.

James, I agree 100%. I am running dual Carter/Webers and Offenhauser intake on my 0.060 over 218. I think they are running just a hair on the rich side but it is a very slim hair so I haven't done anything to correct it.