hkestes41

I am using the Newport Engineering http://www.newportwipers.com/app_main.html motor on my 48 P15. Took a total of about 45 minutes to install start to finish. Was a piece of cake. Uses the stock arm linkage and bolts to the stock location under the dash. Comes with new bushings to fit in the linkage as well. Switch fits in the stock hole but you have to but their adaptor if you want to use your stock knob. They also offer an intermittent switch, but I just used the 2 speed version. Very happy with mine. None of the wipers slowing down when you pull away from a stop light.

There has been some discussion on here a few times concerning interior insulation, when I stumbled across this I though some of you may be interested. Good to see another new P15 product on the market. http://www.quietride.com/docs/mopar_cars_fw_catalog.pdf I know nothing about this company or product but it sounds good. If it fits and works like they say it does then the price is not too bad.

Bob, No I haven't but it has been several years since I talked to him. My mom still talks to him every once in a while but never mentioned his truck.

WatchingWolf, I am still interested in the fender spears. Currently don't have either one so as far as I am concerned for the price of shipping, I can spend some time smoothing out the small dents.

My 73 Cuda. Was pale yellow/white vinyl top with a 318 auto when I bought it with a pretty rough white interior. Had minor rust in the quarters. So took it to a family friend's body shop for new quarters and primer. Then painted it a GM Black Cherry color in my dad's garage. Kohler's Upholstry another family friend in Joplin stitched up a new gray interior for it. Added Weld Wheels 3 inches in the front and 8 inches in the rear. Had a good friend at Reeves tire who worked with me to put as much tire as the rear fender wells would hold. Bought my grandfather's Plymouth wagon for the 727 and 383 which I had bored 60. Bought all the Mopar Direct Connection catalog part recommendations for an 11 second car. Ran mid 12's on street tires at Mokan. Never got a chance to run it with slicks. Drove the car every day for about a year and a half until I got married and had my first kid on the way. Had to be more sensible so I sold it and bought a Toyota Corrola.

I have a dead OD solenoid and am looking to replace it with a 12 volt version. There is a local source with multiple solenoids to choose from but I want to make sure I am getting a 12 volt version. Does anyone have a part number for a 12 volt OD solenoid or know which years that the 12 volt R10 OD's were used? I know that most manufacturers solenoids will interchange so it doesn't have to be limited to Mopar solenoids.

I used the home made Lizzard Skin followed by peel and seal then a foil backed insulation from JC Whitney on the floors. Used an elastomeric roofing paint from Home Depot to make the Lizzard Skin. Stays a little pliable once it is dry so I thought it would offer some sound insulation properties in addition to the thermal insulation. Painted inside the doors and inside the area under the rear quarter windows and the kick panels. Then added the peel and seal. Even with a black car in Dallas it has gone through a summer parked in the driveway with only a single piece of the peel and seal coming loose and that was on the kick panel where the large cut outs are. So, that piece had very little to stick to. Replaced that piece and it has remained in place. Very happy with the results in both sound and thermal insulation. Have not done the roof yet but will be doing so before summer. Will not use the peel and seal on the roof. Hoping for even better results once the roof is done.

James, I have the dual Carter Webbers on my 218 and have never hooked the choke up. While I am in Dallas, I drive the car everyday and there have been some 30 degree days when it fired right up. Pete is running the Holly Webbers on his and if I remember correctly he does not have his choke connected either and it does get a little cooler where he lives.

Seems like several folks have used the 89-90 Dakota rear. I have a line on a decently priced rear from a 90 4x4. For the 89-90 Dakota Rear are the 2wd and 4 wd rears the same? Which is the right one for the swap into a P15?

Sometimes. Other times I can let off multiple times without it going into OD.

OK, this thread seems to have gone to a general OD thread so I am going to ask a totally different question. I have mine currently wired with a toggle switch directly to the solenoid and none of the other connections wired. Will be doing a full wiring job at some point in the future but this has been working great up to now. This is a 6 volt solenoid running on a 12 volt system but others have said they have done the same for years with no problems. Now when I flip the switch i hear a rapid clicking noise kind of like if you were to hold onto a socket and spin a ratchet handle around rapidly. Sometimes it will go into OD sometimes not. So far I have replaced the toggle switch, replaced the wire, verified all good connections, removed the solenoid cleaned the plunger and the cavity it fits in with emory cloth, filed the two sets of points and cleaned it in general. Still getting the clicking. What now?

I came across this and thought I would throw it out there for anyone interested. I have not used/contacted/ or heard any reviews of their parts just trying to let folks know that there may be a potential source. PRECISION BODY AND SHAPING: '46 - '48 Plymouth Floor Pans, Rockers and other sheet metal parts. Located in Des Moines, IA, Contact Gil at (515)288-1603

Several sources for the P15 Skirts JC Whitney - $199 http://www.jcwhitney.com/CUSTOM-FIT-REAR-FENDER-SKIRTS/GP_2008769_N_111+1948+200729068+600013079_10101.jcw Fender Skirt Depot - $139 http://fenderskirtdepot.com/Chrysler/main.html Big Jim's - $149 http://www.bigjims.net/moparsk.htm Fender Skirt King - ? http://fenderskirtking.com/FenderListings/ Agape Auto - $225 http://atechworld.com/agape/index.htm

Here are a couple of pretty good threads from the HAMB on using ABS for door panels. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177348&highlight=abs+door+panel http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=318310&highlight=abs+door+panel

Back in the early to mid 70's my uncle who is about 6 years older than me had one of those old wagons. Had a 289, painted green metal flake, chrome wheels, shag carpet in it that the fibers were all different colors, and bean bag chairs in the back. Had lots of fun in that thing.

Thy this link. http://www.walkerradiatorworks.com/fan_shrouds.cfm

Don't remember how I found it and have never used this product, but with their Kits there is some pretty good pricing. If it is as good as they claim it is. http://www.paintforcars.com/

Some of the guys over on the HAMB where I found this work with this technology on their jobs. They said that the scanner is about $3K and the small printer is about $14K. Where the big cost comes in is the plastic that the printer uses. One said it would be about $2K to do an intake manifold. They said one way that the plastic parts are used is to verify fit, then they are covered with a ceramic material and the plastic melted out leaving a mold to pour the metal to cast a part. Others said this technology also exists for "printing" with sand to make molds and cores for casting metal parts. There is also the capability to print layers of metal powders that are melted as they are being printed forming small metal parts. Not real stong yet but I imagine as time goes by the process will evolve. What I found amazing was that they can print usable moving parts fully assembled which require no secondary operations.

Will all your goodies fit the 25 inch block?

Amazing new technology. http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/video_player.shtml?vid=944641

I would suggest you take a look at this site. Lots of good info there. http://shadowmtkustomz.blogspot.com/

Don't defile the Mopar with GM transplant.

I think it was around 52 or 53 that the car engines went to a two piece neoprene seal that can be changed in the car with the tranmission bolted to the engine. You just remove the rear main cap and push the old upper seal out around the crank. Oil up the new seal and push it in around the crank where the old one cam out. Bottom half is easily replaced in the cap, then bolt it back on, torque it down and replace the pan. Don't know if the truck engine used the neoprene or still used the rope. If I remember correctly you can change the bottom half of the rope seal with the transmission still bolted up, but to replace the top half you have to remove the transmission/bellhousing.