Ivan_B

I do not believe that this would actually be the case. Our cars feel heavy, etc., but they are not really that heavy if you compare the actual weight of many modern full-size sedans with the older versions. In addition, despite using lighter sheet-metal, the newer-style structures (especially the main cage/skeleton) of modern cars is likely stronger. There is a YouTube test crash of an old and new car, everyone's seen. Yes, I know that the condition of the old car is questionable and they probably chose an "X" frame on purpose, there. But still, the old boats are not actually as hard as they feel Moreover, I think that no one will argue that seat belts make the car safer in almost (99.9%) any crash. In fact, they used seat belts in the 40s crash test and stunt vehicles too. Whether or not any particular person needs them installed in their classic is another question. I do not have mine installed, right now, and just drive 45, as an excuse 😋

Sorry, Dave. A Millennial here 😅 Plymouthy is correct, TS - stands for topic starter, this is similar to OP (original poster). I'll make sure to watch my vulgar internet jargon... As for the vacuum advance - I do not remember what I had, down south, I just dialed it all the way up, and then took it down an inch, to be safe

The TS is from Florida, we use the same US scale in Florida 😅 I suspect that either the gauge is not working properly, or it has multiple units on it, and something was confused with something else.

Thank you very much for the info! 😀

Isn't that way too high? 😮 In defense of the OEM carbs, yours appears a bit weathered. Although, if the new one comes with a bowl drain, that's definitely a plus

That's the company name 😁

Sorry for the off-topic, but doesn't any of your fellas have grand kids to recruit for your automotive maintenance needs? 😅 My grandpa used to do this, when he became a bit outdated to climb underneath the car, but was still occasionally driving. Sounds rather extreme. I would just attempt to clean them off with carb cleaner

I've read general bad reviews about Chinese retro carbs but did not try them in person. Also, you can always use the good-old OEM + rebuilt kit. Someone in the States can buy one for you and ship it over.

Yep, the other side is properly trimmed exactly to the door size, and it is the correct profile (the right one on the image) as is the rest of the car. My passenger door certainly has something funny about it. It does not line-up with the B-pillar edge very well either (bulging at the center, or the pillar is recessed). I took the interior out and noticed some welder-cut metal in there. At the same time, i could not identify any obvious damage/body work to the door/pillar skin. Since they were changing the bodies every year back then, and my car was produced in November of 1940, maybe the factory was just using what ever doors/panels they had, and did some manual adjustments to them? 🤨

I bought a more expensive set, with the retro style aviation buckles... Seems to be the normal quality, did not notice anything unusual about them, and they certainly look better than any OEM belts from more recent cars. Do not recall the company name (it was a few years back) and I never got a chance to install them either 😋

Hello Fellas. I've noticed that my 40 2-door sedan passenger door has an incorrect trim installed. It is not the proper profile and about 1/2 inch too short. Does anyone know what this came off? Maybe a 39 or a 41? I need to get rid of it and find the proper one for the 1940. Also, has anyone attempted to install the driver's trim to the passenger's side? Are they the same (or "the same" with a little adjustment)? Sorry, I do not have the parts book

There are a couple of companies (including seat belts plus) who offer the classic car belt kits in various shapes and colors

Yes, I was mainly concerned about the are underneath the floor reinforcements, as well as inside the doors, and all the door/fender seams. Not sure if the POR15 will take care of that. I would personally use a liquid rustproofing, for something like this, but since you are re-painting the surface, this is obviously not an option.

Unless you are a chemist, you can probably just tell apart the castor\glycol\silicone-based fluids.

How did you remove all the rust from the hidden cavities on the body panels? 🤔

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1176230786960105 Just noticed on Face Book. Appears presentable, at first glance. Would love to see some underneath pictures 🤔

Everything mentioned, thus far, is a possible culprit. Most usual, that comes to mind, is gas boiling over into the intake. Had that myself; using non-ethanol helps a bit. It still does it, but just not so much Easy to check, warm-up the car, shut it off, wait 10 minutes, take off the filter - do you see\hear gas leaking into the intake? That's it. However, as mentioned, it could be anything... More information needed here.

What a collection of stands... Only I would oil these-up so make them last longer. Also, never saw discounted lumber at HD. I usually find all the bad wood right at the shelf, so I have to pick and choose the more-or-less decent pieces 🤣

Do it again, tomorrow, see if the smoke returns

Your lines look fine, you've got some great bending skills For the spark issue, I assume you've already tried swapping the coil, so I would not suggest that. I suppose the condenser might go bad with heat too. Another way to check is to try cooling it down (maybe using an air can spray, etc.?) to see if your spark comes back without the need to wait for the engine to cool down.

So many mistakes... 😅 You should've taken the good example from the person who sold it, instead 😇 When I catch myself browsing classic cars ads, I stop and tell myself: "You've already got one, do you want another one? If so, you should sell the one you've got, first, are you ready to do so? No? In this case, stop looking around!" 🤣

Loose chain should not affect the shaft/seal operation, only timing... For parts - check NOS on eBay

Got it. You really should not need to take it out to put in a new condenser, though. It is just two screws - one holds the condenser, another one - the wire lead. It will probably require more effort to get to the distributor clamp screw and pull the vacuum line off For bending metal tubing, so that it looks professional, it us useful to just get a cheap manual tube bender (groovy cylinder with a handle). If you are getting a simple flaring tool (and you are, if you plan to do your own tubing), some of them already come with a simple bender as well. The local parts store probably have all those for loan too.

Good point, but you have to read those amazon ads carefully. They do say it is nicop, but do not actually state that it is 100% nicop (reminds me of the free vs. absolutely free stand-up joke). Anyway, technically, this is not a misleading/false advertisement. They just list the best point (line is nicop) but hide the worst (only nicop-coated). Also, I just found-out myself that "fill synthetic" and "100% synthetic" motor oils are actually not the same thing. The adjustment you need to do is very-very minor... Also, does your vacuum unit still holds vacuum? Mine sure doesn't Do you actually have the equipment to do the timing/vacuum advance on the bench? Also, how would you close-fit the metal line without having everything mounted on the engine? Or are you talking about taking the old line off and duplicating it on the bench, or something like that? 🤨

Simple forms like that you can probably just cut yourself from applicable sheet material Otherwise, if you can do a CAD model or 3D scan, you can print anything you want.