Ivan_B

Some of the questions/tips are being asked/offered multiple times, already. The starter with solenoid is visible on the pics in the first message. His solenoid is a tiny bit more complicated with a safety wire, or what not

These are just the usual little car "mysteries", nothing extraordinary about them; usually explained by the laws of physics and thickness of one's fingers ? For example, I dropped a screw into the engine bay, the other day, and could not find where it went. Ordered a flexible magnet but still could not find it. The thing just disappeared. Then, being a practical DIY'er, I dropped an approximately the same screw from an approximately the same location to see where it goes. On the third attempt, it bounced of the engine block and landed inside the frame rail, on the opposite side to where it was dropped from. Found my missing screw in there as well. I like them carbs with a sight-glass in the bowl. I might even put one into the B&B when I have nothing else to do

Unless someone already messed them up, since the car is currently not running and at least one wire is cut ? I'd recommend checking the firing order and correct connection anyway, in this particular case.

What are you talking about? Is it leaking again? ?

Good. You might also want to get a cheap digital multi-meter, for all the electrical stuff, if you don't have one.

I would start with a generic auto-store set, then, something like this. Before visiting the store, measure your existing wires (approximately) to make sure that the new ones are not too short. Or, you can even get a single wire, for a couple of bucks, just for testing. Did you guys get a set of jack-stands, etc.? I do not recall from the previous threads... That would certainly be more important than getting the new wires, if you are on a budget.

Which-ever you can find in your local parts store, that says "fuel resistant", like this.

I was just attempting to post your photo here ? If the button is the same, then we need to undo the nut at the back. Also, you can probably look-up the wiring diagram for 41 Windsor, for your electrical problem.

First of all, be careful with those wires, it looks like the old insulation is brittle and is falling apart. You will short something... Second, most of the cars work the same way. Was the car turning before you (someone) worked on the starter? Was the starter bench-tested when off the car? ? There is no need to take pictured of your multi-meter If I am seeing the solenoid (little black box) correctly, when you press the button, it should provide 6 volts to one of the solenoid contacts and than, in turn, closes the circuit between the battery cable and the starter (two large nuts below the solenoid). I am noticing that one of the nuts was painted, wonder if that's still connected to where it is supposed to be? Do you hear a click when you push the button? We need to confirm that the button wire is connected to the right solenoid terminal, and that the solenoid itself is operating.

Since no one responded, I'll take a punch: if you have not already done so, take a flash lite and a mirror and see what the button looks like behind the dash. There might be a nut or a clip on the other side. You can also try to take a picture of the back side with your phone, if that's easier.

Nothing. And any generic wires will do (either sold by foot, or universal sets). Given the fact that the engine was stuck, I would not spend too much money on the wires at this point. I would probably use the old ones, assuming they are not damaged and still pass the continuity check.

Good to know, thanks. I did not even look at it, since mine is working as expected... Just assumed it was the standard U-joint The only way I know is to use a vibration meter, measure vibration at different spots and playing around with the weights. Apparently, you can do the same without the meter, by just listening what happens. Not sure how effective that would be for an average DIY guy, though ?

No idea, but this is stated in literally every single instruction manual when removing the driveshaft. I suspect that this is because it is balanced on the vehicle, before, or due to the expected cumulative wear of the associated components. Putting it the same way back in is expected to keep the existing balance. Of course, if you balance it off the vehicle, this does not apply. I don't believe that evening-out visibly bent shaft is quite the same as balancing. Not sure about driveshafts, but you can turn your wheel rim + tire with a dial indicator and position them appropriately to even-out the combined circumference, but this is not the same as balancing which requires either a special machine or at least a spinning cone

I would also suspect that you do not need to swap the whole axle. Maybe just the back plates and associated hardware? Basically, you only need a pivoted mechanism for pushing the rear shoes apart, which you can control with an existing parking brake cable. If you do planes, maybe it is even possible to adapt something from a more modern vehicle? ?

As advertised, here is the specific technical information and wiring diagram If you know how to do this, you don't need to read all this and can just scroll down to the last illustration for the complete diagram as applicable to a 1940 P10. If you are not very familiar with automotive wiring, I am offering a bit more information that could be useful if someone is interested in making a similar setup. Our main objective, here, is to use OEM lighting, without any modifications what so ever (besides disconnecting a couple of cables), so we'll use relays because it seems to be the most convenient way to do what we want, I think. You can either keep the OEM incandescent bulbs, or switch to LEDs. If you switch to LEDs, you'll need to use a LED compatible flasher. We need to flash existing parking/brake lights. Since they are already connected to an existing parking/brake lights circuit, we will use a 5-pin relay to switch the bulb between operating with their respective OEM circuit, and our new flasher circuit when necessary. The automotive relay is a simple switch operated by electrical current. Here is a generic 5-pin relay: Contacts 85 and 86 are connected to a magnetic coil, which operates the "switch" inside the relay, once the power is supplied. The 5-pin relay has 3 contacts for its switch: 30, 87, and 87A. 30 and 87 are connected by default when the relay is not engaged (no power supplied to the coil). Once the relay is engaged (power supplied to the coil) the relay switches pin 30 to pin 87A and continues to hold the switch in this position as long as the relay is engaged. The basic principle, here, is that we can use this relay to switch a light bulb (pin 30) between working of its original circuit (brake/parking light) (pin 87) to the new flasher circuit we'll install (pin 87A). Below is a complete basic diagram of how this looks. This scheme is for a 6 volt positive ground, but it will work exactly the same with either voltage and ground. You just need to use the correct relays (6 vs. 12 volts, there are no positive/negative relays) and correct flasher (6 vs. 12 volts, LED/incandescent). This basic scheme can be used to flash anything we want. We just need to find a place to disconnect the OEM circuit to the applicable bulb, somewhere, to re-connect it through our relay (dotted line). Once we pull the flasher switch, it supplies the power to the relay and the relay switches the bulb from the OEM circuit to the flasher circuit. For turn signals, you will need to use at least 2 relays (left and right). I used 4 relays (one for each bulb) because it was easier to integrate it into my existing wiring this way. Here is the complete diagram of how everything was connected: The scheme should be self-explanatory. Two relays for the front lights are mounted under the hood, two for the real - in the trunk. The flasher and switch are located under the dash. The red "X" marks is where the OEM circuit is disconnected and re-connected through the relays. Below is the complete list of parts I used (excluding 16 gauge wire, harness tape, connectors, and shrink tubing). LED light bulbs: front 68574 (1129 analog), I used the amber ones, although the OEM are natural rear 68465 (1158 analog) I just looked for the brightest LEDs available; you can use any bulbs you like, just make sure that they fit your existing lights, or keep the OEM ones. Flasher: 84787. This one is labeled as 6 volt positive ground. I've no idea what would happen if I use a negative ground instead... The voltage is obviously important, though. If you use LEDs, make sure that the flasher is LED-compatible. Otherwise, you can use any generic flasher from the auto parts store. Some flashers have just 2 pins, some more. All of these will work the same. The extra pins are usually for a separate ground and a pilot light, if you want one. Some flashers also make the beeping noise. The one I used just ticks while in use. Note: the above flasher I ordered from LEDLight.com turned out to be defective (it would work fine of a 4 AAA battery pack, but would not flash with the car battery). After spending countless hours trying to figure out why the flasher is not working, I bought exactly the same flasher on Amazon. LEDLight refused my request for a refund because I bought it 4 month ago, so here am I, giving them bad rep ? Switch: Pollak 34593LQ, this is a D.P.D.T. On-Off-On switch, which can operate two different circuits at the same time. I am just using half of the pins for a single-circuit operation. Any toggle On-Off-On switch will do. I bought this one because of the long lever. Relays: generic 6 volt 5-pin relays from Amazon. If your car is 12 volts, you'll use the 12 volt ones. This is it.

How's the float pin clip doing? When you put the top on, it should press the clip down to hold the float pin in place. If you press the clip down with your finger, is the float still moving? ?

I see, so this set simply allows you to convert your system to an later type with the fancy switch and no relays, I was referring to. Also, it looks like you do need to convert the front lights to a dual filament and run a separate cable to each brake light for it to operate, right? I don't know, it looks like what I did is more simple, since you do not need to modify anything on the car. Moreover, I really don't like those aftermarket column switches. They don't fit into the interior very well. I did find a good looking column switch from the 40-50s, on e-bay, made in Canada. But it was for sale for like $200, so I did not get it

Did not know that, good to know

If the vibration happens while driving, it is likely something that rotates while driving. Check tires and driveshaft. Both should be balanced. Tires should be also checked whether or not the rims are straight. To DIY this, I would first take the tires to the shop and confirm they are within specs. Driveshaft is a non-DIY item, unfortunately, but you can also take it off the car and take it to the balancing shop. And yes, it must be installed the same way it was at the factory. So look for some paint marks on the flanges to see if they still match. Also, just in case, check your exhaust to make sure it does not bang on the frame, etc., while shaken

Yes, I did not do anything with the factory wiring. Front is just a single circuit LED now Well, this is just a multi-function turn-signal switch (performs the same as my toggle + 4 way). If you install it with some aftermarket light-bulbs (4 additional bulbs), then yes, maybe. How would I wire it into my existing system, though, to operate the OEM bulbs? ?

Well, if you believe that the level should be correct, the aforementioned test will pressurize the system. If everything is working as it should, the fuel flow should stop as soon as the float is up. Just like in your toilet ? Alternatively, the gas will go over the edge and leak out of the accelerator pump lever because that is the lowest exit point on an assembled carb. Make sure to put some rugs around the carb, while testing

Bob, thanks for the feedback. This is by no means the proper wiring job, not according to code, anyway, so any kind of constructive criticism is always very welcome The scheme is pretty simple so if I sell the car, I trust that the next owner will be able to trace the wires with a multi-meter, in about 5 minutes. Without too much cursing, I hope ? The above animated illustrations are actually with the parking-lights on. The front will always flash, no matter if the parking lights are on or off. The rear will also always flash the brake light circuit (the higher brightness one) no matter what you do. If the brakes are applied while turning, only one side brake light will activate. The other side will be flashing. I was considering hooking up the flasher to the rear parking lights (instead of the brakes) as well, but decided against that. I figured that most of the time I'll also be braking while turning, and applying the bright brakes will "block" the less bright parking light from being visible, so no one will notice that I am also flashing. An operating flasher, on the other hand, also attracts other motorists' attention, just like the brake light. So I believe that flashing the brake light is preferred over the parking light. I believe that this scheme is very similar to the OEM configuration of some later vehicles, where the front/rear parking lights were used as flashers and the brake light was moved to the center of the hatch. The older cars used a fancy 2-circuit switch, instead of the relays, though.

Ha, it is simply leaking over the acceleration pump inlet. I am 100% positive, you are overflowing just like I was, a few weeks ago. Take the seat and the needle out and inspect them for proper operation. Also, check your float, to make sure it actually floats and has no gas splashing inside If you really want to test this out: take the plugs out, disconnect the ignition coil, and ask someone to crank the engine with the carb cover removed, and see what happens.

Good point. I did not have any doubts (and never-ever specifically did the "panic stop" tests with any of my cars) before Joe mentioned that his apparently "good" looking line just let go. Now I have doubts ? Having a hose blow-up is something expected, this is why I always get new ones if I see any cracks or other signs of aging in the outer layer. But a steel line exploding, this is something completely new to me.

You can throw an extra tire in the trunk, if you plan to do that often. Just hang it over the bumper and push it away... ? But seriously, a road emergency kit (including a tow strap) could be useful.