deathbound

Any work for me, with enough notice. Hot Rods have headlights and taillights......the only downside I see is Friday afternoon/evening traffic.

Getting close, where are you thinking Jon?

I think this is his ebay store, hopefully someone will confirm: http://stores.ebay.com/The-Old-Plym-Cafe?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

I believe the engine# should be stamped on the outside of the drivers side frame rail.....somewhere around the rear axle, maybe just behind. It may take some CSI to find it & the locations vary slightly, but if the #'s match, it's the original engine. Welcome & nice looking car. Dig the picture of your Grandfather, looks like it was a mild kustom.

No big deal, just FYI.....cylinders are #1-#6, starting at the front of the engine. If you rebuild, may as well take take some off the block/head, regrind the cam, dual carbs/exhaust......an expensive snowball.

Do you know the wheel mounting face to face dimension? What axle ratio & wheel/tire size are you using?

NOS or NORS is always the way to go, if available, otherwise rebuilt original parts. I prefer to keep as much original/NORS, MADE in USA parts as possible.

Who needs the Plymouth Doctor???!!!! When are you going to start taking orders? Excellent work, as always!!

Reno Room, 3636 Club, Pot Holder still there. I'm less than a mile from Marri's Pizza. How about The V Room? I grew up about 15 minutes north of LB in Downey, my wife has a BS from CSULB. Hmmmmm, how about those tires? (There, back on topic)

I have NO reason to be in those parts, but a friend and I ran out of gas off the 110 Freeway in Watts in the early 80's......couple punk teens stuck out like sore thumbs......as for the Honey Bucket, never heard of it, maybe before my time?

Not me. Still running bias ply with tubes on original wheels and very happy with it. If ladies did it back then, I should be able to now. I drive on the freeway and stay around 60 mph, up to 70 occasionally with no issues. **EDIT** Original size 6.50-16

As far as attachments....if you click on your user name at the top right, click on "My Profile", then "Edit My Profile", click on "Manage Attachments" in the left hand column and you will see your attachment storage. Yes, delete to add more when storage is maxxed.

I'm in too. Where are you thinking of meeting?

traveller....just a tip, if you want to quote more than 1 post, click on "MultiQuote", then a box will pop-up to "reply to x posts".....not a big deal, just reply below each post you're quoting. BTW, beautiful car, that grille is sleek.

I did the same thing on my '38 P6 your doing on your '37. I went with Valley Vintage (link below) for NOS ends. The 1 with the "cage" goes on the drivers side curved arm the attaches to the drag link (1 with the cage is a drag link end vs. a tie rod end). http://www.vvap.com/ **EDIT** Just checked they're website and noticed they no longer carry NOS parts.

Earthquakes......how about temps in So Cal in the upper 80's....some areas in the low 90's last week AND this week in FEBRUARY!!!!!!! El Nino who?????

Looking great, just needs about 3"-4" off the top.....

Mopar wiring code information Very small wire that is Solid in color is 18ga. Small wire that is Solid base color and 1 stitch of tracer color (either Black or White) is 16ga. Medium wire that is Solid base color and 2 stitchs of tracer color (either Black or White) is 14ga. Large wire that is Solid base color and 3 stitchs of tracer color (either Black or White) is 12ga. Large wire that is Solid in color is 10ga. Very Large wire that is Solid base color and 1 stitch of tracer color (either Black or White) is 8ga. (these Very Large wires would run from Ammeter to Starter, and Ammeter to Ignition Switch) Also - you may find some wires that are what we call a snakeskin pattern where the base color is two different colors with any number of tracers. The number of tracers on snakeskin wire designates the same gauges as above.(1 tracer=16ga. 2 tracer=14ga...etc...) This information was supplied by Rhode Island Wiring Service Inc. www.riwire.com

Lock washers on mine, believed to be stock.

Great picture Tony. Open Thursday-Friday from 10-4 isn't much of a window for us working stiffs. I have a few friends in the area, may have to check it out on a weekend.

T This is all I have.

Dual fishtails, nice. Ran a couple different types on my Panhead 20 years ago.

You can safely lower the rear of your car without "scrub line" issues, just not cheaply (key word). I used Posies Super Slider 3" lowered rear springs, removed 2 leaves, & added 1" lowering blocks. The ride is a little hard, but for as much as I drive it, I can deal with it. Page 44 in the following link: http://www.posiesrodsandcustoms.com/wp-content/uploads/2014-Posies-Cat-PROOF-4-4-14.pdf

I got there late and think a lot of the cars outside the Suede Palace were gone. Here are a couple I did see....a 1933 for TodFitch for a little inspiration ( ) and a T&C, which I'm not a big fan of.

I saw this car at a car clubs (forgot which one) anniversary party in Ontario @Citizens National Bank Arena this past September, with a few other Mopars: