deathbound

Unless I read the original post wrong, I think he was using the link with pictures as an example. This looks like another members car...maybe he'll chime in.

Welcome from sunny So Cal.....Derek

Anything for a 1938 Plymouth Coupe (some '37 stuff works also)? How far from the Los Angeles area & are they letting anyone else visit?

Me personally, I had my m/c & wheel cylinders re-sleeved in stainless steel.....costs more than new, but at least I still have my original MADE IN USA parts.....and I (or any future owner) will never have to worry about pitting. I had my wheel cylinders re-sleeved in s.s. here:http://www.brakeplace.com/ (very happy with the price & service). I had a local brake shop re-sleeve my m/c in s.s.

I just checked out the website referred to in the original post.....here's a link for whoever is interested (for '35-'64 Plymouth-all models):http://www.stockinteriors.com/CutSewnCarpet.asp?Itemid=7461&MakeId=22&ModelId=546#details_box_holder Also, for Chrysler & Dodge of various years....didn't see DeSoto on the list.

They are actually Langdon's cast iron Fenton repops on ebay. I'm also running Langdon's cast iron headers & very happy with them, though, they are more $$$ than Red's.

Thanks for the link. I had the arch measurement, the A/B measurements were close......just should've followed the arch of the spring instead of straight to the center bolt. Glad you're able to use them.

Hannu, Yes, there are 11 leafs in the original front set, 6 in the new front set (2 of which I removed). Measurements for the original fronts: arch:5-1/8" (measured from a straight edge across the center of the eyes) eye to eye centers:34-1/2" center of rear eye to locating pin:18-3/4" (measured diagonally)* center of front eye to locating pin:17" (measured diagonally)* Everything should be identical for the new fronts, with the exception of the arch-which I didn't measure prior to installing them & then removed 2 leafs. There are 10 leafs in the original rear set, 7 in the new Posies 3" lowered rear set (2 of which I removed) Measurements for the original rears: arch:7-1/8" (measured from a straight edge across the center of the eyes) eye to eye centers:50-1/2" center of rear eye to locating pin:28-1/8" (measured diagonally)* center of front eye to locating pin:24-1/4" (measured diagonally)* Everything should be identical for the new rears, with the exception of the arch-which I didn't measure prior to installing them & then removed 2 leafs. *I've been told another way to measure for the locating pin location in relation to the center line of the eyes, is to set the leaf springs on the ground to form an arch, mark the eye center lines, plumb down from the locating pin & take those measurements. My measurements are with the leaf springs laying flat on the ground. If you need them measured differently, let me know. The bumpers were in this condition when I got the car & it's garaged....so that helps. Yes, the tires are Firestone Champion Deluxe 6.00-16 bias ply & it's not bad to drive at all. I don't drive it as often as I'd like, but the times I've had on the freeway, 65 mph, it wasn't bad at all (I've also rebuilt my entire front suspension & steering box-which I'm sure helps a lot). Now, my 1962 Harley Davidson Panhead with the exact same tire, except the motorcycle version, is a little different....it sometimes likes to track the rain grooves on the freeway & feels a little "loose", but after about 20 years, pretty much used to it.

Congrats....good looking car!

Hannu, thanks for the positive comments, unfortunately, I didn't take any measurements of the new springs prior to installing them. I do remember the 2 front leafs springs were identical lengths with the same quantity of leafs. I still have the original front & rear sets....let me know if you need measurements from them. Your front axle looks like an I-beam type with different shock mounts (maybe because it's a 4 door....more weight or maybe even changed out from a truck???), mine is a tube type. Also, the way the 2 stabilizer bars (?) mount to the axle seems different. The rears from Posies are the same length eye to eye, not sure about the arch.....I can measure the originals, but it may not be accurate after 75 years of wear & tear. In the rear, I removed 2 leafs from each side & have recently added 1" lowering blocks. I also removed 2 leafs from the fronts. As far as the shackles, it rides pretty good considering what I've done, I'm not aware of modern style shackles with polyurethane bushings available for my car. Are the springs from Eaton stock specs or are they lowered? The work you've done to your car is amazing, looks like you've got metal work/fab experience. You should start a build thread documenting everything. Also, maybe an introduction....though not required. If there's anything else you need, don't hesitate. Derek Here are a couple current pics of my car:

All is well here.....weather is perfect! I have 2 stock carbs for my model year that I will eventually run....not crazy about the look of the Carter/Weber carbs. They run very well...electric choke (I previously converted to 12V), starts right up-hot or cold, idles smooth. The carbs are from a 1983 Ford Escort or similar with a 1.6 liter engine (about half the size of my 201 c.i. flathead 6), which makes 2 just fine. I went from a single stock carb to dual Carter/Weber carbs/manifold & cast iron headers, then shortly after, changed to a HEI system. It runs great, though it could just be tuned better than before making the changes, as I don't have any info to prove one way or the other. Here is a PDF from Langdon's for the carb: http://pages.suddenlink.net/churchill_toolboards/Langdons%20Carter%20Webers.pdf

Fred, may not be the exact answer you are looking for, I am using the same adapters on my Offy dual carb intake...got them through Langdon's Stovebolt ( http://stoveboltengineco.com/ ) with a pair of the Carter/Weber 2bbl carbs he sells.....about $5 less than the link you provided. Hope this helps.

Check out this thread:http://p15-d24.com/topic/17737-5-speed-not-t5/ Just notice you joined today....welcome to the forum. Check the search function for just about anything you will run into....it's probably been discussed. Don't forget the pics of your car(s)!

Welcome from Long Beach & congrats on the car. I don't know if I'd be much help, kinda new to the old Mopars also, but willing to help where I can. Reminds me of a saying:"I'm not a gynecologist, but I'll take a look at it"......anyways, for you local guys, a meet-up would be cool......count me in, schedule permitting.

Nailed the stance.....looks great, & a HEMI!

Check ebay, there is a lot of NOS/NORS stuff out there. It may be a little more $$$$, but better than all this crap made overseas. By the way, your car looks nice.

Sounds like you're getting a lot done.....good luck on your 400 mile drive. Selling the HD was probably tough???? I don't ever plan to sell my '62 Panhead (have had it nearly 20 years)....hopefully my now 9 year old son-hell, even my daughter-who knows, will want it when I don't.

I can't give any more advice than what's been given already, but if you're interested, here's my thread on my '38 Plymouth front disc brake conversion (with some other stuff that may be irrelevant to your car). Good luck. http://p15-d24.com/topic/26625-new-front-disc-brakes-front-end-rebuild-steering-rebuild-for-the-38-plymouth/?hl=%2Bnew+%2Bfront+%2Bdisc

Robert, are you going to install the sway bar on your '38? Curious on how you will do it with the tube axle/parallel leaf spring front end. Derek

Fred, it's not a spongy ride at all. I left the very bottom shortest leaf (approx 12" long), took out the next 2 shortest, left the 4 longest. 1938 was the last year for the tube axle/leaf spring front, but I thought I saw somewhere some of the early/mid 30's cars used IFS with coil springs??? Derek

Here's mine....just behind the rear axle/rear frame x-member. http://imageshack.com/a/img31/661/qk17.jpg

Fred, I also have heard, as mentioned in a previous post, about moving the spring pocket to the underside of the arm. Have you also considered the dropped uprights (sorry if you addressed that already)? I do agree that the front needs to come down. I really like your car, bet it will look great when you get the suspension sorted out.....FUN!

On my '38 Plymouth Coupe, the # stamped on the left outside frame rail just behind the rear axle arch matches my engine# (less the P6 part).

I wouldn't doubt if they do both....create the problem & get hired to fix it (obviously unknown to the person or business being hacked).......sort of like the glazier who breaks windows in a business district not far from his business....who are they going to call to replace the broken windows, probably him.

I haven't added any lowering blocks to the rear since I installed the Posies 3" lowering springs. I have since removed 2 leafs from them & will wait another month or 2 & see how it settles. Post #41 shows after the new springs were installed. I have also removed 2 leafs from the custom front leaf springs since that pic was taken. Winter is a good time to install the blocks (1" cut down from the 3" blocks I had-even though it only takes an hour or 2), if it doesn't settle to where I happy with it. Here are a couple pics as it sits now, without any blocks & just 2 leafs removed from the fronts & rears: http://imageshack.com/a/img809/8321/0d6k.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img7/4927/sqgq.jpg