deathbound

knuckleharley, it's in me when I ride my rigid frame '62 Panhead with suicide shift, springer front end-no front brake, rear mechanical brake. Others might have other words for it. As far as the front shackles-they were toast.

Something which has barely been discussed in this thread.....SAFETY. Always have a charged fire ext handy with the correct rating, (or water hose if outside-don't spray the welding machine), ear plugs (if you've ever had a dingle berry fly in your ear-you know what I mean), long sleeve shirt/welding sleeves or jacket & welding gloves.....we are all tough but arc/slag/spatter, etc. still hurts (I think there is a pic in this thread of someone with a short sleeve shirt & no gloves), make sure ALL flammable materials/liquids are well away from any welding operation. I'm sure some will add more, but this is just the basics. I hope I don't sound like a safety nazi....I've done a few of these things myself & have the scars to prove it. The point is to have fun & be safe at the same time..... 48dodger......I've never used gas shielded flux core (dual shield) since I work out in the field....I do use Lincoln NR-232 flux core .072 diameter wire in all positions....flat, horizontal, vertical up, & overhead. I think the shop uses dual shield....it produces a nice looking weld.

Thank you! I have since removed a couple leafs from each of the front & rear sets for an even lower stance (& may still add 1" blocks in the rear) which may not be the taste of most here. I will post pics soon.

Check out/search:http://www.garagejournal.com/ Sister site of the HAMB. Welders have been discussed to death there.

Personally, I wouldn't give a penny to Harbor Freight for anything they sell....but that's a discussion for another forum. I understand most people are on a budget, but a welder will come in handy & once you have a good one, you will use it more than you think. Check craigslist for a name brand (Lincoln, Miller, etc) welder, 220v, flux core/mig capable, a proper hood w/auto-darkening lens, (hand held shields are a joke). I don't weld much light gauge.....I'm a structural welder by trade, so I mainly use .072 flux core wire on a daily basis. Oh yeah, when everything is dialed in, it DOES sound like bacon frying. I'm going to get something to eat.

Exactly what I did when I replaced mine recently, I went with brass. Sure, the cost was quite a bit more, but at least I or any future owners won't have a problem removing it.

Congrats on the find, holding out for what you want, & NOT settling on something you would regret. I love the '40/'41 Coupes......just love MY '38 a bit more. Waiting for pics.....

Thanks Robert, that's exactly what I've seen in my service manual, but mine does not have one. May have been removed by a previous owner.....possibly a mid-year change??? Have you driven your car without it & if so, any noticeable difference?

Thanks. My car doesn't have any anti-vibration device on the front that I can see-may have been removed by a previous owner. I have seen a few pictures/diagrams of a part that looks like what you are describing....located near the rear of the front left spring only??? If you have a pic or 2, that would be great. I replaced a couple of the bushings for the shackles....the others were re-useable. I have seen some type of anti-sway bar device (for lack of the correct term) listed for '38 & up, but not on my car....may have been a mid-year change???? Good luck on yours.

Knuckle....you're correct (except the "buttons" fit into a recess in the spring below). I have the Posie's rear lowering springs. Here are a couple pics: P.S.....PANHEADS RULE!!!!!!!! LOL!

I had a similar problem with the drum wanting to turn when I beat on the dogbone. In order to stop it, I used a pry bar wedged to counteract the turning action.

UPDATE......I installed the 2nd set of new leaf springs & they were better, but the front end was still a bit too high. I ended up removing a couple leafs & very pleased with the look. It came down about 1-1/2" in front, with adequate clearance to the stops. I still want the rear a little lower to even out the stance from a slightly raked look (which I also like). I also installed Posie's 3" lowered rear springs a couple months ago & though it lowered the rear some, it is still a bit higher than the stock sagging springs with 3" blocks.....see this thread for details:http://p15-d24.com/t...-the-rear-end/) new front springs BEFORE removing a couple leafs: new front springs AFTER removing a couple leafs:

Doug, it is a Mini HEI (as referred to by Langdon's) & is based on a GM 2.8L "S" truck 1982-84....and uses all the insides from that distributor, so they are readily available. It made my car more responsive, though it may have needed adjustment prior to changing over to the HEI.

Can't help you with your switch knob, but I would repost this. Look at the first thread in this forum (top of the list of threads) for a link to buy/sell parts....or click on this link:http://p15-d24.com/topic/33410-wanted-and-for-sale-ads/ Good luck.

Welcome to the forum. I converted to electronic ignition using Langdon's HEI kit (distributor & coil) & it works good for me. Some have used something from Petronix & should chime in and I believe others have converted slant 6 dizzys....not sure if they're electronic or not though. Also, before the police come, try the search function, should find lots of info.

Yes, new tie rods will make a big difference. If the tires are out of round, isn't there a machine they can put 'em on & shave 'em to get them round or very close? The Potholder is a couple blocks from where my brother lives, never heard of the Honey Bucket bar, & if you're talking about Marri's Pizza on Stearns, it's about 1/2 mile down the street from me.....very good pizza. Sounds like you know Long Beach well.

I was reading a thread on the HAMB last night about bias ply tires & was going to add the link to this forum/thread & noticed you copied the above post on the HAMB thread. Was any of the info helpful? Here's the link if anyone is interested: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=790196 55Fargo, I just purchased & installed new bias ply tires....w/tubes. It drives very nice....had it up to about 70mph recently on the freeway with no complaints, holding on with a light grip of the steering wheel. Have never had it on gravel, so I can't comment on that. I completely rebuilt my steering box, front suspension (new leaf springs, shocks, tie rods, drag link end, king pins) so there is literally no play in the steering. I haven't noticed much rain groove "tracking" either. I'm sure radials are a smoother ride than bias ply, but since my car is not a daily driver, it's no big deal to me. I also think these cars/trucks look more "correct" with bias ply. You stated the wallet dictates the choice & that may be true sometimes, but me personally, I'd rather pay the difference for something I will enjoy & not "settle" for. Don't get me wrong, I will purchase radials in the future.......for my wife's daily driver. Good luck with your tires & truck, from what you've described, you shouldn't have a problem.

You're welcome. Not really sure. Before I changed the fan, I had the water pump rebuilt, replaced the water dist tube, & changed from a 185* thermostat to a 160* thermostat. I only drove it a few times before changing the fan, so it's hard to tell. It is running noticeabley cooler since all the work prior to changing the fan.

Welcome to the forum from a So Cal neighbor. Very nice looking car.

You'll pass right by my house when you go through So Cal.

I thought I'd add my .02 re:the 6 blade fan some have upgraded to. I recently changed out my stock 4 blade fan for a later 6 blade fan (purchased from the P15-D24 store link above). The 6 blade fan profile has a different pitch than my original (the blades hit my gennie pulley), so I added 3/8" thick collars to get the clearance I needed from the gennie pulley. I also used longer grade 8 bolts. I now have about 3/16"-1/4" clearance from the pulley and about 3/4" clearance from the radiator. I put about 75 miles on it the other day at freeway speeds with no issues. original 4 blade fan: replacement 6 blade fan: