deathbound

That's a beauty, especially the intake & exhaust. I need to send my carbs to George to be rebuilt. I talked to him a few weeks ago, told him I have 2 carbs...1 original from my car & 1 with a different #. He told me to let him know which 1 I prefer (my original) & he would replace the other with 1 identical to my original. They look better than new when he's done.

Air ride WITH C-notch. I went with Posies 3" Super Slide rear lowering springs, removed a couple leaves & added 1" blocks (using my stock U-bolts). Rides decent, not a lot of travel, & NO scrub line issues. Any lower & I would go with a C-notch, 4 link, & bags.

Andy, all very good advice, except I would not take a large hammer & whack the pitman arm side of the sector shaft. This will force it against the adjustment screw/cover plate & bend the plate. Use of a puller should be the only way the remove the pitman arm. To re-install the pitman arm may take a bit of "persuasion" from a BFH, but I would do it with the cover off & only enough to get the nut started & let it do the rest of the work.

Welcome.....your car looks great & the 241 should be a nice addition.

The 1071 & 1080 are identical in all specs, except the 1071 says "full flow" & the 1080 says "by-pass".

I had a Wix 51035 sealed oil filter (2nd pic)......switched it out to the type that takes a replaceable oil filter (1st pic). Found it on ebay for about $55 shipped. I'm using a Napa 1080 by pass type filter.....seen here:http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Oil-Filter-Gold-/_/R-FIL1080_0278332820

Fred, I have 25-3/4" from floor to rear fender lip (I think my fenders have more of an arch) & 7-1/4" from floor to front of rear spring bolt. Derek

Ken, sorry to stay OT.......as far as Harley BT's, '57 was the last rigid frame, '58 & later were swing arms (Duo Glides). Derek

Fred, I'm running 2" also. I don't think the axle came down on the exhaust the last time I had the rear up on stands....I would've remembered if it had. Looking at the pics I posted, it looks like the drive shaft rubs a little where it crosses over.....I'll have to address that. Paul, I've never heard the term "burrs" for the clamps. I know there is a u-bolt w/2 nuts....is the "burr" the other part of the clamp? Don, correct, there is the metal bracket that is bolted to the flexible part of the hanger sandwiched between the pipe & clamp. Advance Muffler on PCH in Long Beach.

Not sure Don, the muffler shop installed them like that & I didn't notice til you mentioned it. I'll look tomorrow. I agree, it's easier to access the nuts from below.......no smart remarks....I can hear them already!

Speed kills......just kidding. You are knocking this car out & it looks great. I would never have imaged this from what you started with......keep it up. Dig the truck also.

A few more.....1 off topic with my kid for a size reference.

I went also & seem to see more every year. Here are a few my kid & I took......... Sorry to go off topic Fred.

Fred, here are a few.....Derek

The inside diameter measurement closest to the wheel mounting surface is approx. 12-1/4", it steps out about 1", then measures approx. 15-1/2". My Plymouth Master Parts List book for 1936-1942 shows the same part #695292 for 1938 P5/P6, 1939 P7/P8, & 1940 P9/P10, including 7 passenger/limo cars....except for 1938 passenger/limo-which shows a different part#. The part# above is for both 16x5.50 & 16x6.00 wheels. All this is based on whether we have the original wheels when they were sold....they may have been switched out at some time in the last 75 years???? Hope this helps. Derek

Fred, I removed the through bolt, cut the band that holds them together (haven't replaced it....yet), left the shortest (about 12") spring, removed the next 2, left the 4 longest ones, re-installed the through bolt, installed the 1" lowering blocks.....all with the stock u-bolts. Let me know if you want pics. I don't have measurements right now for you to compare to yours, my front end is on jack stands while I'm working on it.....should be on the ground in a week or so. Also, I'm running my dual exhaust UNDER my rear axle, so no clearance issues there & still above the scrub line. My post #41 shows before/after pics with 3" lowering blocks/worn stock springs & new Posies 3" lowering springs......& post #67 shows before/after pics with Posies 3" lowering springs & after with the 2 leafs mentioned above removed (I also removed 2 leafs from the front at the same time). No pics right now with the 1" blocks installed. EDIT:I did not cut the bands that secure the springs.....don't know what I was thinking.

I'm running Rusty Hope's front disc set-up with the parts Charlie listed. I have stock 16" wheels with no issues on clearance.

Correct, no fees for transferring to your linked bank account. Be prepared to wait about 2-3 business days til it shows up. I may be wrong, but, I think the fees are higher receiving money from overseas buyers (exchange rate?).

James, I think Matt is asking about rear springs for a '54 Plaza. The Posies springs are listed for '33-'48 cars......unless they're identical for later cars.

Any updates.......did you get it??? Pics???

Fred, looks great......I like em low. I removed 2 leafs, cut my 3" blocks down to 1" & installed them with my Posies 3" lowering springs....anymore & I'd have very little travel. I cut my bump stops a bit, still rides decent, no scrub line issues. It's not a daily driver. Derek

Send some our way!

Matt, welcome to the forum. Not too familiar with the trucks.....5x5 bolt pattern....is that because it's a 3/4 ton? Maybe Charlie from Rusty Hope (I think he goes by "olddaddy" on here) can spec out a 5x5 bolt pattern rotor for his kit. Pics of your '48 & '54 are mandatory.......not really, I just like kustoms and want to see them. Derek

If you still have your STOCK original shocks, you can compress them completely & measure the eyes center to center, then extend them completely & measure the eyes center to center, you will now have your total travel for that particular shock. I took these measurements from mine, went to NAPA, looked through their big book of shock with one of the "oldtimers" & found exactly what I needed. You have to know what type ends you have on your original shocks.

I have no affiliation or experience with this seller, but here is a complete set (ignitor & coil) for 6V positive ground. Not sure what year your truck is. 1935-1950 w/Autolite distributor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pertronix-Ignitor-Coil-Chrysler-Dodge-6cyl-w-Autolite-Distributor-6v-POS-1935-50-/190732457967?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c688a57ef