deathbound

Par for the course with most forums......although, sometimes great info. BTW, it's coming together nicely.

dlrides....huge difference, much better stance & the wide whites look perfect!

When I did my brake job, I had my rear wheel cylinders (stepped bore) re-sleeved in S.S. here:http://www.brakeplace.com/. Very happy with the work & 10 days from the day I shipped them to the day I received them. Maybe a little more than re-popped foreign junk, but I still have my original MADE IN U.S.A. wheel cylinders that will never pit. Here's a link to my brake work, along with some other stuff:http://p15-d24.com/topic/26625-new-front-disc-brakes-front-end-rebuild-steering-rebuild-for-the-38-plymouth/

Steve, I know it's only been a week......any progress pics.....I'm anxious!

Bench grinder on the kitchen table......you've got ball$!!!!

Sort of similar story....my wife & I met on a blind double date, but, our first real date was a week later. I picked her up on my Panhead (rigid frame), lick-n-stick back seat pad on the rear fender & took her to an Friday night motorcycle swap meet, then dinner, THEN met her mom. Been 17 years & still good, though she doesn't ride on the Panhead anymore. Good Luck!

Very interesting, as my location on the map in my profile puts me within a few hundred yards of the Long Beach Courthouse & Juvenile Court! May be a default in the system.

Very nice Flatty!!!!!! I'm running a pair of the same ribbed steel foot boards on my Panhead.....I believe they were only produced for a few years during the war (also have an original pair of the rubber/rivet style).

Every car will have different requirements. I included the directions from my 36-42 Plymouth service manual, because it pertains to the OP's car.....a 1937 Plymouth. Some may take 1/4" free play, another may take 17/64", another may take 35/128" & on & on & on.....

Here's mine after my newly acquired Edgy head, Sharp dual carb intake, new ARP studs (to replace the stock studs),oil filter with homemade bracket (head does not have studs to mount the oil filter bracket). I also made copper lines from the water pump to intake to heater core. Previously installed Langdon cast headers, Carter/Weber carbs & HEI from Langdon also. I don't have any dyno #'s or anything like that, but it sure feels like this 201 has a bit more power.

It's "laynrubber's" engine/post, not "kented".

Not sure where you're measuring the free play, but in my 1936-1942 Plymouth service manual, page 77, says: (1) "Free play in the brake pedal should be from 1/4"-3/8". This free play may be readily felt by hand and is the movement of the pedal before the push rod touches the master cylinder piston. If necessary, this free play may be altered by changing the length of the piston push rod." "CAUTION:piston cup must clear port when pedal is in released position." (2) "After the free play is taken up, and the pedal is pushed slowly for an additional 5/8"-3/4", fluid should be forced up through the relief port in the master cylinder. If it does not, and the free play is correct, the master cylinder should be disassembled and checked for swollen cups or improper assembly of parts. The additional pedal travel of approximately 1" is required to move the brake shoes outward against the brake drums." This is verbatim, except where it references a couple of figures. All measurements are taken at the foot pedal pad.

Pics......we need pics!!!!!

First off, this is the first and last time I try to reply from my phone. Steve, are you referring to the 2 bars(?) that clamp to and hold the front axle from moving forward and backward? As far as installing a fixed leaf spring mount like the passenger side, I think that would have a similar effect like the rear axle is secured. Do you have to alter the steering arms that connect to the spindles to lower the rod that ties each side together? I'm asking because I'm thinking there might be clearance issues. I'd love to see pics of the install because I have looked at those dropped axles for a while. Good luck, Derek

I know it doesn't help the OP with his problem, but, this is 1 of the reasons I have my USA made original parts rebuilt, re-sleeved, etc.....usually for a little more $ (and piece of mind) than new overseas made junk. Original part out, original rebuilt part in.....should be no problems. Good luck.

I installed a 6 blade fan on my '38 Plymouth. Can't say how much cooler it runs than with the 4 blade fan previously, since I also installed my rebuilt water pump & new distribution tube at the same time. I did have to use 3/8" spacers & longer bolts to clear the generator (either because of a different offset of the blades/hub or different pitch). The spacers moved the blades closer to the radiator, but still enough clearance to not have to remove the radiator to install the fan. I did use a special fan blade wrench, similar to this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Snap-On-S9470B-1-2-12pt-Fan-Wrench-FREE-SHIPPING-/301212661450?hash=item4621ac76ca&item=301212661450&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

Like the title says.....just sold......for $3.5 million!!!!!!

Here's 1 from an earlier car, but may be similar (& not cheap)????? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1936-1937-1938-1939-1940-1941-Dodge-Plymouth-Chrysler-Brake-T-Switch-MoPaR-/111368081031?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ee0e0e87&vxp=mtr

What is the ebay sellers ID......I'm watching a '37-'39 Plymouth Coupe roll pan kit & don't want to end buying something that will need a lot of work after spending just shy of $300 with shipping?

Glad to see another Union Iron Worker on the forum (me.....Local 433 Los Angeles). Prior to this, worked as a commercial diver in the Pile Drivers Local 2375, prior to that, retail sales for Home Depot (nice 401K) & working for a swimming pool contractor (double duty after the divorce), prior to that, worked at a truck body manufacturing shop. Hope to pull the pin in about 12 years.

Sta-Lube multi purpose hypoid 85W90 gear oil, API/GL-4. I rebuilt my steering box a couple years ago & this is what I used. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Gear-Oil-Automotive-1-QT-CRC-85W90/_/R-SLRSL24229_0006410049

Any pics of the '38 Plymouth?

Can you post a link to the carpet kit supplier? The window frames turned out great.

Here's an AAJ rear disc thread....maybe the member has some info:http://p15-d24.com/topic/33806-disc-brakes-1950-desoto/?hl=%20rear%20%20disc%20%20brakes