Losthope

Thanks kented ! I appreciate the feedback ......Looks like my thread got hi jacked about a Cruise control switch and other randomness LMAO

Nice ride! Door handles should have a pin to tap out and not a c-clip like most cars

thanks for the info learn something new everyday. My friends and I call Explorers "Exploders" that brings a whole new meaning to the nickname..

ya I was looking at that when it was still on the ford explorer, Im pretty sure its the "cruise control deactivation switch" since theres a brake light switch on the pedal assembly already on ford explorers and rangers, which I wont be running anyways thanks for the tip ill defiantly remove it and put in a plug in there .

HaHAha! She came home from work and I had it running full bore using the wire wheel cleaning up parts that the chem-dip cleaner didn't remove, She walked in the door paused for a minute looked at me while I smiled back and shook her head and went to get out of her work cloths she came back in the room and I said " What? Its your carburetors im cleaning for your car" ! She said " I love you" and walked off to go do something..Hehehe....... Shes a keeper for sure ,one time I did dishes I had car parts and hubcaps drying in the dish rack with her dishs ,She finally saw them in there shook her head and said "Whats this? did you wash them with the dishs?" ...I just smiled.... She puts up with all my car shenanigans and our life revolves around our cars, parts, and shows..... greasey transmissions in the back seat of her car, she orders and runs around picks parts up for me when im at work before the shops close.....one of the reasons im building her this 49 Plymouth because she puts up and forfeits a lot for my car addiction felt I needed to give her something back

Couple other do-dads I got off ebay "fix your Plymouth" book, dash compass, door handle guards, and since this is my first attempt at a dual carb setup I was talking with "Plymouth adams " in the chat here on the forum I asked what type of carb synch he thought I should use and he suggested this little guy , thanks Plymouth Adams for letting me bug you and pick your brain!: and I picked up a un-known visor from a friend that will be a plan B if I don't get my hands on this fulton visor im waiting for a reply on locally :

then I went to my pops house and found a "skinny belt " style water pump pulley in the parts shed to start switching the pulley system over from the fatter style belt pulley system it had , but then I went down to the local electrical service shop here in town and a uncombed wiry white haired gentleman stepped behind the counter as I told him my belt scenario and what I was trying to do , he was very informative and told me they adapt delco remys to old tractors and trucks, etc ....all the time and handed me a pulley made for exactly what I was trying to do (still need to get a lock washer for pulley) and picked up a new gates bus & truck series belt: then I got my hands on another carter ball & ball carb: then I turned the ol' ladys kitchen table in to my carb rebuild bench: and that basically brings us up to date: still need to button stuff up on the motor going to start making my own carb linkage , trying to source out some aluminum rivet plugs for the carbs since the carb kits didn't have all the plugs for clean out passages , new brass washers and correct nuts for exhaust manifold since it had a few different types of brass and steel washers , then its onto working on the front clip...

Been awhile since ive posted , work has taken a lot of my time up. Its also been in the triple digits here the past couple weeks so after working all day in the heat its been hard to head to the non cooled shop afterwards and work on the Plymouth when the a/c at home is so inviting , but I have got some things done.... I finally got the oil lines hooked up and a filter cartridge and some fresh oil in the motor: went to the pick-n-pull yard and found a decent delco-remy alternator , and pulled a master cylinder off a ford explorer to go with the ford explorer disc rearend and disc setup up front, after a little cleaning: After looking closely at the motor when I went to install the rebuilt external water bypass water pump I got from my pops , I noticed the head didn't have the internal water bypass passage, the block did, the water pump that was on it was a external pump, and thermostat housing was a internal type....I figured when the motor had been rebuilt probably used parts from 2 motors to make the rebuild and never had a water bypass system hooked back up due to a jumble of differences in parts so I found a used external water bypass thermostat housing on eBay and installed that and a new 160* thermostat : I started to make a alternator bracket using the old generator bracket: ordered a service manual off ebay:

I recently installed the same springs on my 54 ford to replace the worn out cut coils with the same results WOW what a difference raised the car back up a little but waiting for them to settle, also have them installed on the 49 Plymouth project (not road worthy yet).....all the guys on the 52-54 ford forum that have done this say the springs will settle some after being installed awhile so expect the nose to go down some more when they settle!

HAHA It was found on ebay from a seller first thing that popped up on google search for water distribution tube figured he was really trying to sell his iorn tubes!, When I read it the first thing I thought of was all my other non-flathead engines with brass freeze plugs in them .... yet again I never took chemistry class either so wanted to hear your guys input!

I know this is a older post, I just removed my rusted out tube and looking for info and the best priced tube and ran across this thread on a brass tube, I also ran across this in my search and thought it was interesting info : Chrysler Corp's L-head engines incorporated formed sheetmetal tubes to direct coolant from the output of the waterpump to each cylinder. These "water distrubution tubes" were originally made of galvanized steel and of course rust-out over time which leads to engine overheating. We offer a distribution tube kit on which also includes new core (freeze) plugs. Frequently we are asked if we can supply the replacement tube and core plugs in brass. The answer is NO. Because the engine block is made of a ferrous metal (iron), everything in contact with the iron block and the coolant water should also be made of an iron-based metal. If you remenber your high school chemistry class, you leanred that if you immerse two dis-similar metals (iron and brass) in an electrolyte (the coolant water), you will have created a galvanic battery cell that will rapidly erode the least "noble" metal part (your engine bock). You don't want that! Making sure that any metal parts used in the cooling passages are made of a ferrous (iron-based) metal will keep the erosion to a minimum. Because of this, you probably won't find a brass water distrubution tube but there are mechanics that will try to install brass core plugs into your engine's water jacket. Don't let them! Atlas Obsolete Chrysler Parts I was just interested in a iorn tube anyways but see if any of you had any input in the galvanic battery cell theory?

Awesome! dual quad! thatll look great in the 34 ford and be bad- a$$! I always wanted to build a t-bucket powered by a y-block instead of the typical SBC everyone uses... I gravitate to anything at car shows with a y-block LOL..... Im a big y-block fan, the 1954 ford I have was my first car and the 239 y that came in it from factory is what engine i learned to work on...it ended up taking a crap and i replaced it with a low mile rebuilt 272 y, over the years ive found parts at the swap meets for it like the dual exhaust , quad intake, factory chromed vavle covers( not the new cheap repops) ,carter afb500 cfm carb,the later model better distributor i also have it running out some glasspacks and 1 1/2" pipe really got a rap with the y-block rumble ...nothing fancey looking yet on it and i really need to pull it back out and repaint it something besides the red (how i got it)but i dont ever leave the hood open anyways: And the y-block for the 26 dodge project was basically free besides the labor to take the galaxie apart, it was more of a gift from my cousin and a couple friends because they know how much of a y-block fan i am and it would go to a good home , it also has a finned valley pan and alot of little bits have been chromed i believe its a 1954 mercury 256 y-block its one of the odd ball y-blocks and its not the desirable 312 but itll do the job ...it was definitely a major score for how much the uprgraded parts cost to buy nowadays ..

Sellers name is classic parts "classicparts4u" , what i didnt do that i usually do was look at the sellers feedback reviews which i should of did before i bought , seller has some bad feedback of poor/bad fitting products of floor pans, rockers, wheel archs, etc from different model and makes of classic cars.....even if its not the same seller id suggest checking feedback on seller before you buy. if your looking at the roll pan kit from "Hotrodderplymouth" his feedback is %100 in the past 12 months and looks like at the moment he only sells 36-39 parts and reviews say great quality parts specifically has great reviews on the 37-39 plymouth roll pan kit also! p.s what could go wrong from buying from a ebay seller named "Hotrodderplymouth" HAHAHA

ya the rocker panels are giant turds i would suggest buying them to any one to replace maybe to use as patch panels...@ falconvan thats my point of view also !

some of my time was taken up lately from getting the drivetrain from a wrecked 62 galaxie , for the 1926 dodge project , engine,trans,driveline ,and 9" rearend...Payment for stripping all the usable/sellable parts and cutting the galaxie up ...