DJ194950

A factory brick option? Factory name on it? Picture? DJ

Don you should be a pro writer with that story! Been several years 2-3, I sent them a pressure plate, clutch disc for rebuilding and asked the man in charge at the time (the smoker?) to call when done and I'd give him a CC # to pay. Only about 2 days after it was received (checked the tracking info) by them I got the call. About $65 bucks. I'd mentioned the P-15 and Don C's referral on the first call. I was asked if I needed a throwout bearing, I said yes I guess. So paid and done. Wait, received parts and also had the pilot bushing and a plastic alignment tool for the disc. At $65 Shipped! Wonder if the P-15 site mention helped the price or He remembered his drooling thoughts of Don's? Tennessee holds fond memories for Don? DJ

ROB-PA Finally got an answer from my friend with the 37 Ply. and parts info for you. He has a 49 Ply. motor, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch plate (borg & beck long style) with the original 37 bell housing/ trans and original type floor starter and all works well together for many years. Truck flywheel, clutch setup may work, not sure. Redrill flywheel for 9 1/4"or 10" v/s 11" if needed. Q. is the crackshaft offset the same on the backside of the flywheel?? Again don't know, others might.? Maybe find a car flywheel/clutch set-up even later years seems OK, more local, should not be too hard as you are now connected to the best web. forum out there!! Seems that 9 1/4" dia., 10" dia. and 11" dia. clutches were avail. for many years. Even saw an 9 1/8" clutch for export? Agree with Don C. if not able to locate a clutch setup. Call Tennessee clutch for help. If they say maybe, have Don C. call them- He's their #1 salesman! DJ

Check your oil level and consistency Possible fuel pump when bad and was putting fuel in the crankcase. No fuel to carb. Overfilled crankcase due to gas in it leaked the excess fluid out the road draft tube when tilted on the rollback.? Trans leak, bad output shaft seal that normally only leaked slightly allowed oil to leak more on the tilted bed?? A couple of thoughts. DJ

Sounds like you have one ford wheel that do have a smaller ID in the wheel center. Did you ever drive this before?. While it will fit the bolt pattern a ford wheel will will not tighten without distorting the wheel as it is not tight to the brake drum because of the center hole! Must have had one wheel that fit, But. DJ

Mark-one question is that the east side or west side of the backyard? DJ

Electronic Igns. may use hall effect(flying magnet pickup) or a system that uses a light that is triggered in the dist. (older models). newer used sensors on the crankshaft or a special crank mounted pulley. Newer diesels also use a crank position sensor for pollution controls of timing and fuel. From what I have read many times they all gas powered vechicles require resistor wires and plugs, otherwise the control module can overheat and burn out. They now make old look wires that are resistor type. Don't know if kented used them or solid type wires that Are not recommended. DJ DJ

Great picture! DJ

Check your fuel line front to back. Also take a look at the fuel tank drain plug. Doesn't take a big fuel leak to make a big smell in an enclosed storage building. Maybe also as soon as you get back from a drive loosen the gas cap to check for any pressure/vacuum buildup. Some thoughts, DJ

Maxxix tires are very low priced tire. Get what you pay for and no idea where the tire was made. Offices in US/many Asian/ some Latin America/Europe. Where was it made? Take a guess country of origin for cheap tires. All up to you. Low mileage driven at slower speeds might work, but... Many have run the size listed without problems. DJ

DJ, were you saying that the flywheel and clutch may be available? The bell housing appears to be correct; has all of the right mounting holes at least? ROB-PA's question. Rob I can try calling my friend that I gave the parts to but he is notorious for not answering his cell phone and his message box is always full as he doesn't know how to clear it out and doesn't want to. I'll keep after him though! I believe however that I kept the flywheel that was in the motor/bell/flywheel/clutch setup that I bought and just took it to my storage at my friends ranch. The motor in that setup was a later engine but I never looked up what year! I can look one of these days as it's also in storage. His 37 Ply. has the same bell housing as the one you just got and is mated to a newer 218 car engine. I can ask him what flywheel he used and what type clutch and pressure plate. I know he does not like the style clutch I gave him and that his is not that style. Time to get that new house done so you can get on the important stuff- the 35!! DJ

Whats up about a flywheel. Got one the fits the crank and inside the bell housing. Called a friend that got the trans, clutch, and pressure plate from the motor that had the 37" ? bell housing you got from me. The one (his now) that was on the motor and trans setup I bought had a 10" diameter clutch & pressure plate (very odd style-old??). What diameter is the truck setup? Some of the slightly newer 50's? had 11" and pressure plate fingers have a larger spread between the fingers for a larger throwout bearing to work with the larger input shaft of many trucks. 47 trucks used ?? dia. pressure plate and discs. Measure the OD of the 37 input shaft and compare to the OD of the truck input shaft or the ID if the truck throwout bearing -whichever you have? Some truck guys are on this forum and i'm sure they can help fill some blanks. This forum is super in that respect! Some flywheels are drilled to match both. All can be worked out, The fun of mix/match! Enjoy the journey! DJ

ROB, Might try the cutting torch by putting a piece of scrap steel bent to cover the back side area behind the bolt being cut. Turn down the oxy. pressure on the torch to about 10-15 psi so that the cutting action is very limited and not have the blow threw that probably happen if preesure is left to the more normal 30 psi of oxy.. Just a thought, can't see the bolts and where they are, up to you. Drilling the head off carriage bolts is a real pain as the square part is always left under the head. Drill all the way through the bolt and cold chisel the nut off.?? Others must have faced this at some point? DJ

Like I said no experience with these, however vintagepowerwagons does, therefore my thought for them to be contacted. If the model wc he has is the same rear end as the cars there is a fair chance that the rear end was swapped out somewhere in it's life. My interchange book can get Very complicated when it comes to Dodge truck rear gears. DJ

Loved it! Bookmarked for a friend who has a car just like in the sales movie. Tks. for the post- never saw it before. DJ

As long as everyone has their own seat belts you're good to go in Ca. DJ

Check with: vintagepowerwagons.com. In their online parts book however says the last wc 1/2 ton was 1945. No experience with these myself, but they have some Large ring and pinions for these and some they describe as the Small 8 1/4 ring and pinions for those years? Call them I have head they are very helpful. DJ

I agree Tim but I've only made one swap meet in the last 5 years due to walking issues. Way less vendor trucks loaded with parts shown on the table- most are smaller tables and a salesman with catalogs at one! Don't see what you need? It may be available from the catalog. Ask the salesman. Times are tough for the vendors with the internet nowdays, Someone will almost undercut the prices. Many internet sellers do not even have the parts they are selling. Drop ship-drop ship. They don't own the parts just sell them from a large warehouse. Or many many warehouses. They vendors have a second problem-protecting their name-products must be of a good known quality or risk negative feedback, lose customers. Most stock the products they sell - extra costs. The internet seller may or may not be of good rep. and may not be in bus, for long, At least under the current name. All that said I have loved to look, examine quality and purchase at what was a competitive price. Missing the Old Days already!? LOL. DJ

Seems at a time not to long ago You used this nick name? What does your wife object to the multiple names added later to the PP?

I'd like to see something on a new forum post besides the short main headline that indicates that a picture(s) or attachment is on a post before clicking on the post and deciding to bypass the post. DJ

Some interesting info after a web search for"installing an old windmill" showed up. No experience with these at all but used to see many out in the country to feed cattle. Almost all gone now. Miss them, part of the expanding USA history from back in the day. DJ

P-20 steer diagram. attached. Upper pic is P-19 &20--D33-34 Lower is desoto and chrysler Book parts list two "end packages with only 2 diff. part #'s" -can be assumed that is 2 per package??, as pic shows four rod ends. DJ correct application #'s

P-20 steer diagram. attached. Book parts list two "end packages with only 2 diff. #'s" can be assumed that is 2 per package??, as pic shows four rod ends.

Merle, What did you use as your heat source to remove the old solder and redo as there is a lot of metal to get hot enough to solder?? DJ

Red from the turn signal wire goes to the Normally open terminal of the brake switch wire, tie into that wire where closest to the turn signal controller , or carry to the switch itself. Battery wire from the flasher unit I would hook to the Ign. power at the switch or tie into a wire that has power only when the ignition switch is is the On position or maybe the best would be the accessory terminal of the switch so as to have 4 way flashers for parking when needed, switch in access. position.and also in Ign position that way. Other thoughts?? DJ