kbuhagiar

It was a challenge, but I think it worked out well. First of all, if it was my choice, I would have never removed the factory door latches and locks. The ones used on the P15 were ahead of their time and perfectly adequate. And I will never again purchase a vehicle with any portion of the door latch/lock mechanism modified, shaved, or removed. However, the previous owner had the bear claw latches installed and the outside door lock cylinders removed and a remote door lock system installed, so I had to work with the hand that had been dealt to me, so to speak. I originally considered re-installing the outside door lock cylinders, since the latches installed on my car do have a provision for locking. I decided against that after I determined that it would have been far too difficult to fabricate the inside linkage necessary to connect the lock cylinder with the latch. Besides that, I still could not devise a method to lock/unlock from the inside using the factory door handles. Also, the existing remote door lock system was unreliable. After locking myself out of the car, and having to get in by removing the back seat through the trunk I decided on the following: (a) remove and replace the existing remote entry system with one that was reliable; ( devise a method for manually locking/unlocking the doors from the inside; and © fabricating an emergency door lock release system, in case of lock-out. First I removed the old remote entry system and replaced it with a new setup from Electric-Life. The plungers in this system were much more robust and reliable, so this restored my confidence. Next, I fabricated a manual lock/unlock button setup, which looks very much like a typical factory setup with the door lock buttons coming up through the window garnish moldings on either side, very similar to the rear door locking setup on four-door P15s. It was kind of scary drilling holes into the factory garnish moldings, but after much measuring and summoning up of courage I did the deed. I think it came out OK. Another benefit of the door lock buttons is that when you pull up/push down on either one it also unlocks/locks the other door in unison. Lastly, I fabricated an emergency-release cable which goes through the passenger side door and exits adjacent to the upper door hinge and comes out in the front wheel well. It utilizes a locking cylinder with a key which helps with my peace of mind (I'm no fan of the emergency release cables which merely terminate somewhere under the car and would allow anyone who knows about it to walk up and reach under and unlock the door). To operate, you insert the key, turn it a quarter turn, and remove the entire cylinder, which is attached to the release cable, and pull on it. After you have unlocked the door, you replace the cylinder in its holder and lock it back into place. Let me know if you have any questions.

What kind of locking handles are you going to use? Are they from another make/model, or were you planning on modifying the stock handles? Just curious, as I just went through much effort coming to a "locking" solution with the bear claw latches on my P15.

Welcome aboard, Matt. Post some pictures if you have a chance!

I agree - enjoy it just the way it is. ...but what does your wife think? After all, it is her car...right? :D

I agree - I can't stand it when they insist on writing the history of the world in the ad....

Thanks Mark, Saw the video - great work as usual. There is a custom bright red P15 in a couple of scenes in the video - do you have any information on it? Thanks

:D:D

Don, the car looks great. I really like that shade of blue - was that a factory color?

Congratulations! The car looks great; good luck with the inspection. Are those digital gauges I see? Did you fabricate them, or get them from a particular vendor? Also, on the 350, are you using the stock mechanical fan for cooling, or an electric fan setup?

The weatherstrip on my P15 is mounted to the trunk lid. But my channel below the trunk lock is missing on my car also - how critical is it to have it replaced?

Tim, In your first post you mentioned the "POC Forum". "POC Forum" is what I Googled originally. My results included three pages of Power of Chaos Forum, Point-of-Care Testing Forum, and People of Color Forum. Subsequently I decided to ask for assistance. Don responded with the "Plymouth Owners Club" answer, which I appreciate. However, he added "Google it" to his response, which I interpeted to mean 'Next time, do your homework and check Google first '. If I misinterpreted this response I apologize. Don, sorry I called you grouchy. Tim, sorry I didn't know what 'POC' was.

Hey Grouchy, I DID Google "POC Forum" before I asked, and I got three pages of Power of Chaos Forum, Point-of-Care Testing Forum, and People of Color Forum. Jeez Louise, lighten up!

Pardon my ignorance, but what is the POC forum? I will venture that perhaps it partially stands for Plymouth and Chrysler...

Hello Ed, I highly recommend Wilton vises. I have a 20-year-old #63199 with 4 1/2" jaws, and it is a beast. Paid around $180 for it new, worth every penny. http://www.wiltontools.com/us/manufacturing/en/wilton/product.html?node=4546&product=273874

Welcome from NorCal!

Yes - a Rolex that has been modified. If he is happy with how the new Timex movement works, and he doesn't try to pass it off as anything but what it really is, it doesn't matter. In fact, he may even argue that it is better with that Timex movement, because it wont cost him a small fortune to get it fixed if it ever breaks. Of course, it may be worthless and blasphemous to a diehard Rolex afficianado since it is no longer 100% original. But it still has worth to the owner, and to many other folks out there. The Plymouth is still a Plymouth, regardless of what is under the hood. Cars are primarily known for the bodies, not the engines within. Jensen Interceptors of the late 60s & early 70s were all factory equipped with either 383 or 440 Mopar engines - does that make them Chrysler cars? No, they're still Jensens. Look, preferences are like belly buttons (remember those?) - everybody has one. You are not crazy about MoPar cars with non-MoPar engines. I get that, and it is perfectly understandable. But to imply that the owner of that custom Plymouth is somehow embarrassed by his Chevy drivetrain? Nope, I don't see it. That doesn't look like a car that has anything to be embarrassed about. Disclaimer: My 47 Plymouth Special Deluxe Club Coupe has a Corvette engine and a Turbo 350, so my view may be somewhat biased! Best Wishes to you and to the Spirit of Lively Discussion of All Topics Automotive!

So I'm curious - what would you have him do? Perhaps he should put a disclaimer on the hood? Or maybe he should remove all references to Plymouth, based on him drivetrain blasphemy? Better yet, he should not be allowed in the company of the real P15 aficionados, instead banished to the farthest corner of the fairgrounds? Just wondering.

If you are looking for a brand new Offenhauser 2 carb intake manifold... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-Offenhauser-Plymouth-Dodge-2-carb-intake-1946-48-/230643819869?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b371655d Good luck!

Very very very nice!

Pretty cool: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130539719827&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

Yes. Yup.

Was included in post #5 - engine is a stock 1986 Corvette TPI. 50-50 mix regular Prestone - 195 degree thermostat. Thanks.

OK, did some testing this weekend, using an infrared thermometer, with the car completely warmed up and idling in the driveway. With heat gauge indicating 200 (yellow arrow), readings are as follows: At cylinder head, where the heat gauge bulb is installed, 210-215 degrees. At thermostat housing, direct center and top, 180 degrees. Are the readings consistent with other similar applications, i.e. should there be a 30 degree discrepancy between the thermostat housing and cylinder head? Is this be normal for a SBC? Which reading should be used to determine actual cooling system temperature - cylinder head or thermostat housing? Thanks again.

Touche - point well taken. Now, where did I put that kitchen thermometer...?

Kenneth = Kenny = Ken Kenneth: What my wife calls me when the UPS man delivers another package Kenny: What my high school buddies know me as Ken: My "grown-up" nomenclature