Reg Evans

Neil Riddle on eBay has them too. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1940-41-47-48-49-Plymouth-Dodge-Decals-1950-53-54-Mopar_W0QQitemZ280253255877QQihZ018QQcategoryZ42606QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

Wish I was closer. I like those 39's.

Don, Oh...well....even my 52 pickup,which I converted to 12 volts,will drain the battery sometimes after a month long sleep trying to pump the carb full of gas. Rockwood, No....I seem to regularly get gas right after a BBQ.

Hey Don, How did your car do with DCS before you converted to 12 volts?

I've got to agree with De Soto Frank and Niel Hoback about the newer fuel formulation maybe being the cause of "DCS" . I've had to keep several gas filled mustard squeeze containers in the garage along with some starting fluid for a long time now. I don't remove the air cleaner to prime the carb. I just loosen the wing nut in the center of the air cleaner and fill the indentation on top once or twice. I'm not a stranger to these old Flatheads. My first car back in the mid 60's was a 33 Plymouth with a tired L6. I don't remember ever having to prime the carb to get it started unless I had run out of gas. There were times when I was away from it for 4 or 5 days and it would always start up. Some of the first things I do to one of these old Mopars when I drag one home is to make up a set of heavy 6 volt cables, tune it up with new parts,and install a kit in the carb. All of this and my old cars still suffer from DCS. Very frustrating !

I think Ed Juneau on the forum says the same thing. I have a 35 Dodge,a 38 Dodge,a 40 Power wagon,a 42 Dodge,a 49 Plymouth,and a 52 Dodge truck. All flatheads and every one of them WILL NOT start if they have sat for nearly a week unless I prime the carb. Sometimes I even have to get out and give it another prime before the carb delivers gas to the engine. All of these have had new fuel pumps and NOS or rebuilt carbs over the last few years and none of that ever help the dreaded "DRY CARB SYNDROME" in all these cars. I'm leaning out of my garage window right now yelling......"I'm as mad as hell and I'm not going to take it any more" Some of you might remember that movie. I wonder what the devil the difference is I think a survery might be in order.

All of my flatties have to be primed after sitting for several days. The float bowls go dry and it takes way too much cranking before the gas flows back into them. I just installed an electric pump in my 38 coupe last Friday and am going to let it sit for a couple of more days before I start it up. If the new pump eliminates me having to look for some gas to prime the carb:mad: after cranking until I'm worried about over working the starter and battery I'm going to install one in all my cars. http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(zanae055q1j5c445tdj1tq45))/Detail.aspx?R=NFPP4259_0006346221 For my other cars I'll be using one like this one on eBay. Much less expensive than the NAPA one and easier to install. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6-volt-Electric-Fuel-Pump-for-Fords-with-unleaded-gas_W0QQitemZ190241278691QQihZ009QQcategoryZ34198QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

When is it? This weekend?

My sister in law who lives in Reno saw this on her local news chanel and sent the link to me. http://www.kolotv.com/home

Very cool Dennis ! Are those signs magnetic or paper? I still like that rim color.

I like that dark blue color Todd. Send photos as the reconstruction progresses. I see two tail pipes. Did the truck have a flat 6 w/a split manifold?

Now that's funny Bob ! How about this one. Now Tim can join Sergeant Peppers Lonely Hearts Club BANNED.

To make sure everything is oiled remove the plugs and turn the engine over until you have 40lbs or so of oil pressure. Re-install the plugs and you should be good to go.

Well....assuming the carb. has been rebuilt correctly and the float level is correct there isn't much else left to do but adjust the idle mixture screw. I turn the idle screw all the way in and then back it off about 1.5 turns. Make sure you have the linkage return spring installed and start it up. Then adjust the linkage idle to about 475 rpm's. Now turn the idle mixture screw in a little at a time until you can hear the engine stutter or slow down. Then back the screw out about 1/2 a turn.

Possibly a weak fuel pump or your float level has changed.

Nah....just a socket with an extension should reach the nuts just fine. That is if you meant the 2 hidden ones on the exhaust manifold.

I hope yours doesn't turn out to be as stuck as mine was. I had all 13 fasteners removed and the thing would still not budge. This was on a 40 Plymouth and I think the manifold had never been removed. I tried heat,PB blaster and a big hammer for a week. The exhaust manifold had a big crack in it so I finally had to torch a hole thru the manifold where the 2 lower long studs had become part of the manifold and burn thru them. I had removed probably 15 of these in the past without this problem. Good luck with yours.

Was the compression check done after the engine was warmed up or when cold? Either way those numbers aren't too bad but if the engine was cold those numbers are real good. Can you remove the muffler to see if the smoke goes away ?

I have been dealing with a slow paying non communicating buyer since June 18th when one of my auctions ended. It took 3 emails to him and finally a "non payer" complaint to eBay to hear from him and get paid. 35 days to get paid. I'd like to give this guy neg. feedback but am sure he will do the same for me. I just sent the manifold to him yesterday. # 120271918626. After the fact I see that he did the same thing to another seller or two and he only has about 6 transactions. I'd like to ban this rude slouch.

I do likum Fred and YES...they all run. Well, as of yesterday anyway. It's fairly early morning here now.

Only my 35 Dodge sedan has it's original engine. My 38 Dodge bizzy coupe has a 52 Dodge 6. My 42 Dodge bizzy coupe has a 48 Dodge 6. it's original engine is going to be rebuilt one of these days. My 49 Plym. Suburban has a 59 Dodge truck 6. My 52 Dodge truck has a 50 Chrysler 251.

Thanks Chet ! I sent you a PM.

Now to confuse matters more here's a 3rd alternative for polarizing a generator ] Here's what the regulator looks like in my 42 Dodge

Well...I have a special problem there. I was going to try that until I discovered that the cheap decal on the top of the reg. had faded and the locations for Batt, Arm, and Fld are not visible anymore.