Radcliffe

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54864068@N03/ This will hook you up to my wife's Flicker site for pictures. I've had this truck for years. It got a new rebuilt engine three years ago. You name it brakes, clutch, radiator, basically everything, I've fixed it. The thing is I broke my leg over Labor Day and my wife took care of me. Some how I promised her I'd take her to Paris this spring and the only way that's going to happen is if I sell my truck. I'm in Portland, Oregon. I've got 12 grand into this baby and need to see $7500 back. I'll trade cash and plane tickets if that makes it easier. Call me at 504-606-6156 or send an email.

I've replaced the gas, adjusted the float, checked the spark. The engine was running with great compression when I took it out of a deck welder. It's been sitting for a few months without running. Will starting the engine without priming the oil pump cause damage? I poured a couple of ounces of motor oil in each of the cyclinders to make sure they had lube. How do you set the fuel mix screw for initial startup? I was told to seat it all the way in then back it out a turn and a half. Is that right? At this point I don't want to damage the engine. It turns but its very tight. Any suggestions?

I know the engine in my truck is a 230 (T223). I can't figure out in the manual what the timing should be set at (TDC?). I figured the spark gap at .035 but what about the points gap. I'm excited by the way I've been working two years to get a good engine in this truck again. I've gotten it turned over and now all I need is fresh gas and a simple tune up and then I'm going for a ride. I'm about 10k into a 5k truck but it runs again. I don't care what my wife says, I'm parking it in the front yard! Chris

We cut the input shaft and the thing bolted in. We'll see about the starter, I hope its not a problem.

The machanic is going to cut back the input shaft and cut deeper splines. The stomp starter should engage as it normally would. The crankshaft flange is actually set at the same point on both the 218 and 230. The tail length of the crank shaft is longer on the 230 but has been machined out to use a bushing around the pilot bearing. This is a steep learning curve. Thanks for your input, I'll update when I get resolution.

It took me a while but I found a running 230ci flathead in a dock welder up in Forks, Washington. The serial number showed that it came out of a weapons carrier made in 1943. I bolted it into my 49 pickup and sent it to the shop to have a pilot bushing made for the crank and to hook up the three speed. The transmission shop just called and told me the crank shaft is too long, can this be right? Aren't the engines simple exchangeable assemblies? Is there a thread I missed that covers this. I'm 10k into a 5k truck, please tell me it ain't so.