Merle Coggins

As Dutch said, the B1's ('48 & '49) are nearly fully interchangable with your B2 ('50). Even between 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks there are many interchangable parts. The only major differences are a longer wheel base, smaller rims, larger front brakes, and heavier springs on the 3/4 ton. The B3's ('51 & '52) have a different nose and hood, and the dash is different. Other than that I believe everything else would be interchangable. The B4 ('53) had a minor change with the bed and rear fenders, but otherwise they are the same as the B2's. I highly reccommend this book. It is very informative about the Pilot-House trucks and the changes throughout the years. Merle

I remember seeing that one a while ago too. I thought it fit and looked good.

Restricting the air flow to the tool will reduce it's effective torque. That's how most torque regulators work that are built into the impact gun. Also, if you can't find the correct torque for you lug nuts, you can always use German Torque... Get them Geuttentiet

As far as I know, the front and rear axles are the same, but as you say the 3/4 ton would have 11" front drums instead of the 10" on a 1/2 ton. Also the 3/4 ton trucks used 15" wheels and the 1/2 ton used 16" wheels. I don't see any reason why you couldn't keep the 11" brakes up front. I'm not sure about your spring question. I think the only difference would be more springs on the 3/4 ton. As for your trans swap... I won't make any difference on final gear ratios. Top gear of both transmissions will be 1:1. What the 4 speed will give you is a stump pulling low gear. Other than that, the 3/4 ton chassis is longer. The 3/4 ton used a 116" wheel base and the 1/2 ton was 108" It should be a good parts truck for your project. Are there any good parts on that truck that you don't need? Merle

It would work, but you'll have charging problems with the batteries. The battery that's not connected to your accessories will get overcharged, reducing it's life. I've seen it happen many times on 24v systems (2-12v batteries) where they run a radio off of one battery. Just my opinion from experience, Merle

The City Brewing Co. of LaCrosse, WI used to be the home of G. Heileman Brewing and Old Style. When they moved out a few years ago some of the employees bought the plant and started up the City Brewing Co. I don't know the reason for Heileman pulling out of LaCrosse, but their headquarters appears to be in Milwaukee now. I think it's part of Pabst now. Merle

Don't know how the vinegar would work with the electricity. The electrolytic method uses the electron flow to remove or convert the rust. The solution is only to facilitate electron transfer. I have tried it with success on some items. I used a plastic 5 gallon bucket and mixed a solution of water and Washing Soda, not Baking Soda. Use about 1 tablespoon of Washing Soda per gallon of water. Also you need to hook up the battery charger the correct way. Get it wrong and your parts get eaten away. I don't think it really matters what the voltage is, but I used my charger on the 12v setting. There's a good article on the Stovebolt web site about it. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm I also saw an article there about using vinegar. I don't think I'd mix the two methods though. Merle

Higher resistance (larger ohm value) will consume less amperage and more voltage. This can all be calculated with simple math. The formula is V = I x R (Voltage = Amperage x Resistance) Don't ask why "I" represents Amperage. I used to know, but I can't remember right now. With a little algebra we can convert the formula to find the missing value. I = V / R or R = V / I or V = I x R If you measure the resistance of your gauge and your resistor (voltage reducer) you can determine what the voltage drops will be. (Assuming this is on a converted 12 volt system, you should use 14 volts for your calculations because that should be your charging voltage.) Add up the resistance values of your gauge and resistor. Now 14 divided by your total resistance will = the amperage draw of the circuit. Now take your calculated amperage and multiply that number by each resistance value to determine what the voltage drop will be across each resistance. Example; Your gauge measures 3 ohms of resistance Your voltage reducer (resistor) measures 4 ohms Total resistance = 7 ohms 14 / 7 = 2 amps 2 x 4 = 8 volt drop across the resistor 2 x 3 = 6 volt drop across the gauge 8 volt drop + 6 volt drop = 14 volts (a way to check your math) Does this help clear it up? Merle

Sounds like they're up to their eye balls in snow in Denver.

Same here. Dead page.

Hey, cheer up, will ya? Great find. Looks like just what you need. You'll have her back on the road in no time.

Reg's pan looks an awful lot like the one on my truck engine, which would make it for a late 40's - early 50's truck engine.

Is your resistor connected to a load when you measure the voltage? If not you won't see the voltage drop. A basic rule of electricity regarding resistances in a series circuit... The voltage drop across each resistance will equal the total voltage. The voltage drop accross each resistance will be dependant on how much resistance each has. Does that make sense? Here's a basic diagram to help explain. This is from my Basic Electric course that I have taught to our technicians. Construction equipment is commonly 24V, which is why I used 24V in the diagram.

I just checked the Gates web site. It only lists the Green Stripe hose in Coolant applications. I couldn't find the Red Stripe hose. Maybe they don't use it anymore. For fuel fill applications it shows a hose like what some have mentioned with the wire in it. It probably helps keep it flexible without kinking. If the hose you see on ebay is Gates brand I wouldn't use it for fuel hose. If it is another brand, Maybe it's OK. Different hose manufacturers would have different designations for their hoses.

Someone mentioned the Gates brand hose. As I recall, the Gates Green Stripe hose is for coolant and will swell when used with oil or petroleum products. For those applications use the Gates Red Stripe hose. It is resistant to petroleum products and doesn't have the wire in it. The hose with the wire spiral through it us usually used for hydraulic systems as a stronger hose for pump suction or low pressure return piping. So it would be OK too, but more difficult to work with. My 2 cents worth. Merle

Welcome aboard. You're close to a couple of us. I live in Waukesha and Norm (AKA Norms Coupe) lives on the north side of the Milwaukee Metro area. We have a gathering planned for Jan 20th (see "Upper Midwest Mopar Gathering" post in the "Announcements" section). If you're free then come on up. Merle

Ed's got a point. It'll probably run you around $100 to sleeve one cylinder, and you may need a new piston for that one too. It all depends on how severe the damage is. You'll have to completely disassemble it for the machining work, so you'd need a gasket kit. But if all the other parts are new, you could probably reassemble it and have it running again for only a few hundred bucks. It could be more than that for your other engine, depending on it's condition. Merle

Norm, If you have an open the gauge wouldn't move regardless of the sender position, and if it has a short it should peg the gauge and again the sender wouldn't have any effect on it. Are you sure the gauge is OK? Did you try checking the wire continuity with an ohm meter?

The Standard cab didn't have the corner windows and wouldn't have the vent windows. The Custom and Delux cabs have corner and vent windows. I believe the Ram's head is the same on 48-53 models, but I think there was some type of Ram's head on Dodge trucks since way back.

I agree that it doesn't sound possible to run that head on an engine with the internal water pump bypass, unless it was able to seal the port completely when installed. However if that is the case I would think there would be some sort of problem with the cooling system if the bypass was plugged. If it does plug that port in the block, maybe you can switch to an external bypass water pump? Just a thought... Merle

What were your motorcycle restoration projects?

Do you have your preferences set to NOT show signitures? The link he was refering to was part of his signiture.

Dave, any idea where you've seen this "elusive critter"? My fluid drive engine has the oil pressure relief built into the block just above the pan flange, and it's on the opposite side of the block from the pump. At least I believe that's what that little poppet and spring are for. Merle

Machinist? No. Just a mechanic that has had a lot of experience with various hydraulic systems and fittings. The info on the racing equipment shop came from a few years ago when I was looking for an upgrade replacement for my motorcycle brake lines. And like most things, I've seemed to keep the catalog. Good luck with your brake lines. Merle

The male end looks to be a SAE 45 degree seat or JIC 37 degree seat in a -3 or -4 size. That should be easy to match up at your hydraulic shop. The other end, however, looks to be some kind of straight thread with a sealing washer of some sort on the end. Does it have an inverted seat like a brake line fitting? I dug out a catalog from a few years ago from a racing equipment supplier here in the Milwaukee area. They have several types of brake fittings, but without being able to positively identify the fitting type it would be difficult to know what would work. Do you have a race shop or raceing equipment supplier in your area? Maybe they could help. They may be able to come up with something, even if they have to make different hoses to fit their fittings. the downside may be that it'll be steel braided lines, which are better but wouldn't look authentic. Good luck, Merle