Merle Coggins

Thanks guys. The Steele Rubber Products will cost over $300 more for all of the pieces I need, but it sounds like the lack of agrivation will be worth it. Dave, I looked through Steele's catalog for the fender filler, but didn't find one listed. If someone has an original that they can send in to them, maybe we could voice our opinion to them and get them to reproduce them. Merle

I've been pricing weatherstripping for my truck. I've seen guys post things here about molding from Roberts regarding installation struggles and fit. But Steele's rubber is a lot more expensive. For example, Vulcanized Windshield Weatherstrip from Steele is $149.70, whereas stuff from Roberts or Bernbaum is only $55. Is there really that much difference? It looks like the cheaper stuff isn't a 1 piece vulcanized unit. Do they seal up OK? The molding that I took out is 1 piece vulcanized type. Is the Steele stuff a better match of the original? Also, rear window molding from Steele = $126.10, from Roberts = $40.00 Corner window molding from Steele = $118.90 for the pair, from Roberts = $40.00. And Bernbaum has a complete set for $80.00. I'd have to guess that Roberts and Bernbaum have the same stuff since their prices match. I don't mind paying more if I know if I know I'm getting more quality. But it's considerably more. Any comments? Merle

On mine there are clips on the back side of what the call the rollers. It's actually just a pin that slides in the slot along the bottom of the glass. Reach around under the regulator and glass and slide the clips off of the pins. As you say, there's not much room to work, but once you get the clips off, the glass will come out through the top. You'll have to remove the 2 rubber bumpers on the inside door lip to get it out. Good luck.

I got 'em off. One came off using the needle nose plier tip. The rest I had to use the pliers wrapped with tape tip. But all of them wouldn't budge without a little heat from a small propane torch. The wiper switch pulled right off as described by Charles. Piece of cake. And again the tapped pliers did the trick to remove the nut to get the entire assemble out. Thanks Guys. Merle

I see that Roberts has glove boxes for our trucks. Has anyone tried one? Does it fit well? Has anyone tried to fabricate one out of sheet metal or other material that may be stronger than the cardboard type material of the original one? Or is it not worth the effort for $22 for a replacement from Roberts? Merle

A while back there was a thread regarding the cowl vent seal and the lack of proper fit. Has anyone come up with one that fits properly? I remember someone mentioning a cut to fit version too. Maybe I just need to go back and search the archives, but I'm feeling lazy tonight. I pealed mine out today, and nearly got it in one piece. But I don't think there's enough there for a sample to make one. Maybe I'm wrong though. Merle

OK... what's the trick for removing the nuts that hold the light switches and choke/throttle cables? There are 4 small dimples that look like you'd need a special tool to fit into them. Is there a tool available to loosen/tighten these? Is there any other way to get a grip on them without destroying them? Also, how do you remobe the wiper switch lever? Everything else has been removed from the cab except for these pieces. I don't want to have to paint around them if I don't have to. Merle

That would be the Harold that started this thread, Norm.

Did you check the thread in the "Announcements" section relating to that topic? Merle

I'm not familiar with the early '40's truck glass, but the Pilot-House ('48-'53) glass is all simple flat laminated auto glass, except for the corner glass. If Flat glass will work for you, you could have any auto glass shop cut a piece to any size you need. Merle

Ed, that guy lives near me. I saw that truck last summer at the Iola show. Todd B and I talked with him for some time. Found out that he lives about 10 miles from me. He uses two cabs to make that one. It has a Ford Ranger box and a Ford 9" rear end, but it looks good. It is nicely done. Merle

I was planning on using Steele Rubber. Any objections? As I remember, when I was removing my glass, the rubber lip goes to the inside of the cab. This lip also covered the edge of the interier panel. So you'd be installing the glass from the outside in. Merle

I just bought a new drum puller from my Matco guy. He had it on his truck so long that he took it off and stored it in his basement, so he gave me a good deal on it. But I believe they are still listed in their catalog. Merle

That's too cool. Merle

I believe you put the rubber around the glass first, then pull the lip on the rubber molding through the opening in the cab.

Looks good Dave

They've been pretty good the past few years. They won the Calder Cup a couple of years ago, and lost in the championship series last year. It's hard to keep up with the players since about the time they get real good they get sent up the the NHL. It's also a shame that they don't play a lot of the games on local TV. I think the last Admirals game I saw on TV was when I was in Ontario, in December, and they were playing the Toronto Marlies. Merle

I believe shortly after that they started putting up the netting above the glass at the ends of the ice. Generally when they clear the glass at the sides they don't have as much velocity. My local team is the Milwaukee Admirals, part of the AHL. Used to be in the IHL. The closes NHL team is the Blackhawks, but I have a real hard time rooting for a Chicago team. Merle

Those pictures that we looked at on Saturday got you goin' eh? Merle

When I got my engine back together and ready for oil I had some Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30 handy and I didn't feel like running out to get dino oil for it. So it has the synthetic in it and runs fine, so far. No long term reports yet. Merle

A 3/4 ton truck should have a 218 engine. The one ton used a 230. I think you have to get up to the Ton and a half to have the big block engines.

Hockey is so cool (no pun intended) Merle

I say, if it's "Calling out to you" than go get it. Provided the engine and power train is OK it could be a driver as is. I agree with Lou on the brakes. Regardless of their condition I'd go through them and check them thouroughly. Replace any questionable lines and hoses. Take it to Macco for an inexpensive 'DuPont overhaul' and have a decent weekend driver. Merle

I work for a Volvo Construction Equipment Dealership and we have equipment that uses a remote reservior for the brake system. They are about 5.5" tall and 3" diameter, which may be larger that you'd need, but it is a nice reservior. Volvo P/N 4872244 shows a list price of $48.86. Comes with the mounting bracket, cap and a barb type fitting at the bottom to connect a hose. Merle