Merle Coggins

I was just looking through the Members List (I like looking at the pics) and I noticed a lot of members with 0 posts. Of the 501 members I counted 200 with 0 posts. OK, some may be new members that haven't contributed anything yet, and that's OK. But some have been there a long time, and some even have some nice photos shown, but still no posts. I just thought it was odd. I also noticed that BobT has reached a new level. He is now a "Guru" at 500 posts. Congrats BobT. Merle

Attached is a pic of the internal thread chase that we have. Internal thread chase on the left, with misc bits, and external thread file on the right (available almost anywhere) I don't remember where we got it, but it is from Widell Industries http://www.widell.com/ Looks like Fastenal is one of their distributors. Maybe that's where we got it. We do a fair amount of business with Fastenal. I don't know if this helps you or not. Good luck Merle

I remember one on ebay a few months ago from Tomah, WI area that had that same green carpet all over it. Must have been this one's twin

Got any pictures? Where are they located?

I believe this came up a while back, and the consensus was that 48-50 wipers park at the center bar and 51-53 park at the bottom. Merle

There are internal thread files available too. I think we have one at work, somewhere. It works like a reverse pliers, spreading the jaws when you squeeze the handles. There are differnet thread pitch bits than go on the ends. If I think of it tomorrow, I'll try to find it to see what brand name is on it. It works pretty slick. Merle

There's a car in that picture? Merle

Yea, but you guys need to see the inside. WOW!!! Todd, do you have any pics of the interier? I didn't take any pics when I saw it. Merle

I had my rebuilt engine running Saturday. I don't remember the exact pressure, but as I recall it stayed up around 30-40 psi at idle, or just above, even warmed up. Rebuilding or replacing the oil pump is usually standard practice with any rebuilt engine. That may be something to consider, especially since they are so easy to access. GTK has a good point too. Cam bearings are often overlooked on a low buget rebuild, but are critical to proper operation. Also commonly overlooked are the con rod wrist pin bushings. Did you replace them? Merle

Does the serial number match? My '50 B2C is registered as a "51 and the serial number has a typo in it. The last 5 is printed as an S. I'm hoping to get it corrected when I finally get around to transfering the title to my name. Merle

Success, Todd That looks familure. Where's the trailer? Merle

There are two ways to post pictures. One way is to use the "Insert Image" button at the top of the text box where you type in your message. It is a small yellow square with a little picture of a mountain in it. This only works, though, if you have the picture stored on another web site. (I use Photobucket.com) The other way uses the "Manage Attachements" down below the text box. If you scroll down below the text box to the area titled "Additional Options" you will find the "Manage Attachments". This will open up another small window that lets you browse your computer files and attach picture files directly from your computer. It doesn't like large files, however. If your file is over 100KB you may need to resize it with a photoshop type software first. Good luck, Merle

That looks like the desposable canister type. From what I've heard/read these are no longer available. Merle

Yes, by-pass oil filters do filter finer. In general, from what I've read, a full flow filters run in the 20-30 micron range, whereas a bypass filter could be down around the 10 micron range or lower. (smaller micron # = smaller particles) As for comparing different filter brands, check this site http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html Merle

Yes. Red = Positive Black = Negative Doesn't matter how it's connected to the vehicle unless you're not connecting directly to the battery. If, for example, you are connecting to the starter cable at the starter, connect the Black lead to the cable terminal and the Red lead to the chassis. But it sounds like you're connecting to the battery, so Red to positive and Black to negitave like normal. Merle

I guess it depends on what filter you have. After reading the posts I thought I had mine backwards, but I copied a picture I took of one of Todd B's trucks. (some of you may remember Todd. He was active on the old forum and has a 2Ton Pilot House with a cabin camper on it). I went out and looked again at my filter and just below the upper fitting is stamped "OUT". This would indicate that I got it correct. I've attached a pic of a close up of my filter canister, hopefully you can make out the lettering, and a couple of the pics from Todd's truck. Merle

I used pipe dope (pipe thread sealant) when I assembled my engine. So far so good. Merle

When I got my truck it didn't have an oil filter either. I found one on ebay, listed for late 40's - early 50's Dodge Truck. I bought it and when I got it and opened it up it looked like it was packed full of grease, but it was sludge. I feel sorry for the engine it came off of. It didn't even have the correct filter element in it. Anyway, after some cleaning, painting, and help from here, I got it mounted and a new filter installed. Here are a couple of pics of it. It is a Deluxe (name brand) filter and specifies a Deluxe JC filter cartridge, which crosses to a NAPA 1011. Merle

Nothin' like a little Skynyrd to get things rollin' Cool video. Merle

You've got a lot of work cut out for you, but it looks like you may have a few spare parts already. Steve may be right about the dash, but it's hard to tell. Do you have any better pics of the interier? The front clip is 48-50, including the hood. It has the notch for the upper stainless piece. It looks like your spare hood panels are the same way. I've never noticed any differences with the doors between 48-50 and 51-53, I always thought they were the same, but I won't argue the point. If you take a wire brush to the side of the frame just above and slightly forward of the left front wheel, you should find the serial number. Then go to http://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php and type on your serial #. It will tell you what year it actually is. It's possible that someone changed the front clip with an earlier version sue to a wreck, or it could have been a newer version cab replacement onto an earlier chassis. As for what to do first... Take lots of pictures, label parts as you dissassemble. Using freezer bags to keep the hardware works great. You can write on the bags with a Sharpie to remind you what the bolts are for. I also highly recommend this book Good luck, and welcome aboard. Merle

Welcome Jerry, I'm guessing you've already figured out that there are is a great bunch of guys here with an abundance of knowledge. By the way, you've got a nice looking ride.

Well I guess this still doesn't answer your question then, does it.

You're close. But actually it is exactly the same as what I refered to. Whether it's a series 12v or 24v system, you are doing the same thing. Using your analogy, "inner battery has the more constant draw servicing the needs of the car and the outer battery is servicing the accesories", actually both batteries have to work together to make 12 volts but one of the batteries is also called on for the 6 volt system. So this battery is doing double duty and the charging system charges accordingly which overcharges the other battery. If you are dead set on using this type of system, I would recommend a Bettery Equalizer. These are designed for this use and will keep the batteries charged equally. I'm not sure where to get one for 6/12v systems, but I have seen them for 12/24v systems.

Look again Dave. There is a center divider bar. And in the upper corner of the passenger side glass is written "1950 Dodge" Also looks like "For Sale" with something else in the rear window. And who was asking a while back about clip on mirrors for the trucks? It has one on the drivers door.

As Dutch said, the B1's ('48 & '49) are nearly fully interchangable with your B2 ('50). Even between 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks there are many interchangable parts. The only major differences are a longer wheel base, smaller rims, larger front brakes, and heavier springs on the 3/4 ton. The B3's ('51 & '52) have a different nose and hood, and the dash is different. Other than that I believe everything else would be interchangable. The B4 ('53) had a minor change with the bed and rear fenders, but otherwise they are the same as the B2's. I highly reccommend this book. It is very informative about the Pilot-House trucks and the changes throughout the years. Merle