Merle Coggins

I don't know much about them, but from what I've read it is the M6 "Automatic" that was used in the Chryslers and DeSoto's. It came out in '53, which is what that truck is. I know he has it listed as a '52 but he's wrong. I saw the listing earlier. I have it in my "Watch" list. If I wasn't in the middle of my current truck project I'd probably jump in the bidding. That's the first one of those I've seen. Merle

Maybe it's a Right Hand Drive???

Got mine at Farm & Fleet (similar to Tractor Supply) in the farm tractor parts area. As Tim stated, they have 90 deg ends with boots and are cut to length with terminals at the other end. The look and work great. It also allowed me to run them through the tubes on the sides of the coil bracket like the originals.

Yikes!!! :eek:

I love those trucks too. If I didn't get this Pilot-house project I probably would have looked for a Power Giant like that one. Cool Truck, Merle

Thanks Norm, I have a Kanter catalog. They don't list anything for Dodge Trucks. In fact in the listing under Dodge, they have "Call". Something about too many variations to list? I haven't called them yet, but thought about it.

The Illinois toll road system, especially around Chicago, uses Oasis stops like that too. It's kind of interesting sitting there eating lunch and watching the traffic run under you.

I just dropped mine off at a local radiator shop that we use regularly here at work. They explained to me that the honeycomb cores are nearly impossible to repair. Also if they would have to remove the tanks they'd never get it to seal up again. They said if they recored it, it would be a regular tube and fin type core and wouldn't be "original" anymore. They are going to try to power flush mine. It looks OK but is full of mouse fuzz from where is was stored before I got it. From that conversation I assumed that it could be recored, just not with the honeycomb type core, which isn't even available anyway. Good luck, Merle

I'll use Andy B as a last resort. I've had a couple of issues with them on previous orders, primarily regarding his shipping methods as you mentioned. Also, I tend to be more comfortable with name brand stuff rather than off brand. I got my master cylinder from Napa for $130 (I don't pay list price) and Andy B lists his at $115, but I didn't have to pay any shipping charges and it was delivered to my desk here at work. By the way... did the fittings from your old cylinders not fit the new ones? Why couldn't you have used one of them for the one that was missing? Merle

Sometimes people will do crazy things to get a job accomplished, and it's not always the safe way. At least your rigging didn't look like these setups, Ed

I know this has been brought up here before, but I can't seem to find it. Maybe it's on the old forum, which I can't seem to access either. (what's the status of CD's or DVD's of the old forums?) Someone posted the Napa part numbers for the wheel cylinders at one time. Who still has those, or part #'s from other sources? I pulled 1 rear drum and 1 front drum over the weekend. The shoes show some wear, but have a bit of life yet. However the cylinders are kind of iffy so I'll feel better if they all get replaced. I've already installed a new master cylinder and am running all new lines. Thanks, Merle

I'll bet it was pulling hard, right up until it went BANG!! Probably just like this one did...

Please read the post with the same title on the Pilot-house side. I need some answers regarding Fluid Drive badges. Merle

I have been on the lookout for a "Fluid Drive" emblem for my 1950 B2C truck and have a post in the "want add" section of this forum. Now for the dilemma... Glenn (aka morson82) was kind enough to contact me regarding a pair that he found, but I declined his offer because they were different from what I had. Then Reg Evans was kind enough to let me know there was a set of emblems for sale on ebay. (these Mopar guys are so helpful, aren't they?) But alas they are the same ones. I thanked Reg politely but informed him that they don't match what I need. However they apparently do match the ones on his 1950 truck. So what gives? Mine looks like this and the ones that Glenn is selling, and what Reg says match his truck look like this Does anyone else have a Fluid Drive truck, or car, that can let me know which emblems may be correct? It seems odd that Reg and I both have 1950 Fluid Drive trucks, yet the badges are different. What do the cars have? Merle

I think the car filters are taller than the ones on the trucks. I've read through Norms conversion which gave me confidence to tackle the project on mine. I have it ready to install a filter now, but haven't had the chance to find one yet. I have a Napa master filter catalog at work and it gives dimentions of the filters, so I was hoping I could find one that way. I might be able to get to it tomorrow. I'll post my findings, but if someone has already done it, by all means let us know.

I guess they're just not in Wisconsin anymore. As I recall they were up to $129.95 before their commercials dissapeared from TV. But that was probably 10-15 years ago.

This pic shows the name on the building up there. I know the Macco shop you speak of. I've heard that they to good work. When I see a paint job like on this car I always think of Earl Schieb - "I'll paint any car for just $99.95". I think he's been out of business for a while now, but from what I heard he would spray the car in what ever condition it was brought in. If you wanted a good prep job you'd better do it yourself. And if you didn't want some parts painted, you'd better mask it off or remove it before you brought it in.

I know where you talking about. They did mostly custom van conversions. I think they are still in business, although I don't see as much activity over there lately. It's a block or 2 from here. I saw that car on my way to Iola to see a customer yesterday. On the way back I stopped to get some pics and have a closer look. Up close it's showing it's age. I guess it's what some would call a 100 footer. It's had a cheap paint job without fixing some previous paint/body issues, and the top is a little ragged on the edges. But otherwise it looks pretty good for a 60+ year old car. The cars are parked as if they were for sale, but none had any signs or window stickers indicating that they were. That's probably a good thing as I don't really have funds to bring it home anyway, or space for it if I did. Merle

I got solvent from my local Farm & Fleet store. It is parts washer solvent (don't know exactly what it is) and came in 5 gal buckets. I believe it was around $20 per bucket and I used 3 in my 20 gal parts washer. It works pretty good. Merle

Thought you car guys might appreciate this one. I saw it yesterday and had to stop and snap off a few pics. I'm not up on my car model years. Can someone inform me of what year this one is? Merle

My house and garage need a new roof too. You scratch my back...

Cucamonga... I know it's a real place, but the name makes me chuckle. I guess out there on the left coast they ran out of normal names like our Oconomowoc, Weyauwega, Wonewoc, Shiocton, or Chenequa.

I thought I remembered something attached to one of the trans cover bolts when I pulled it out, but there wasn't much left of it. And I'll have to come up with a good location to add a ground strap/cable to the chassis too. Dave, I've been using the threaded boss on the oil pan flange to connect the battery for a test fire, and it worked well. I was hoping to get some insite into the original connetion location, and it seems I have found that too. And No, I didn't replace the pedal bushings, although I probably should. If I knew of a source for bushings I probably would have/will. Ed, Nice seats. Are they comfortable for long trips? Merle

I got the engine set in this weekend, so it's starting to look like I'm making progress. I will be making up new battery cables as the Neg one looks to be original and the Pos one looks like a newer replacement, but too light. The Pos cable was laying loose in the truck when I got it. Can anyone tell me where it connects to the engine/chassis? the Neg cable was still installed so I can copy it pretty close, but I'd like to do the Pos cable correctly too. Merle