Merle Coggins

Fred, did you get the blue color from all the blue collars?

LED's run quite cool compared to an incandescent bulb. The issue comes with the low current draw on flashers. Some flashers won't flash because there isn't enough load. Usually a heavy duty one will fix that, or I've seen resisters that can be wired into the circuits to increase the load for the flashers. As for the polarity sensitivity... it is a Light Emitting Diode. A diode will only allow current to pass in one direction, unless it's a Zener Diode but that's another topic. The only way I can see these lights working on a Pos ground system would be to insulate the lamp assembly and wire it in reverse.

The knobs came unscrewed from my choke and throttle cables on my truck. Are they that different on cars? The outer chrome piece threads on to the cable shaft. The end of the shaft has a flat spot that alligns with a matching hole in the inner part of the knob. This keeps the inner piece in the proper orientation even though the outer piece turns. They were stuck pretty good, but I kept working them and they eventually came off.

If I were doing it, I would use our metal band saw to cut it close, then carefully grind or sand the edges smooth. A good plasma cutter would probably work well also. Merle

I see your delima now. How does the right side light mount to the arm without another bracket? I suppose one could be fabricated out of heavy sheet metal without too much trouble. That would probably be cheaper than buying a license plate bracket for $20. Merle

I've seen those cast type from Roberts on Pilot House trucks too. I never liked how they stuck out though. I like the setup on my truck better. These from VPW look the same to me. If you don't have the mounting holes for that type, maybe this one would work, It only needs one bolt. These were copied from the VPW catalog. Merle

What type of tail light brackets does your truck use? These are the ones that Robert's has, listed for '28-'53 Mine looks like this. It looks like one of the types listed in VPW's catalog. I'm hoping to get a matching RH one from them some day.

Ed, did you check Vintage Power Wagons? They have several different tail light brackets. http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/catalog/pdf/group6-electrical.pdf

Apparently these trucks could be ordered in many configurations. I stand corrected. I was only repeating what I had read in Don Bunn's book. Merle

I've used him for parts in the past. For the most part I got what was ordered without problems. But one time I got the incorrect head gasket and had to argue with him about it because he claimed I couldn't possibly have an internal bypass block and head if I had a 1950 engine. I finally let him think he had won, and he agreed to exchange it for the one I needed. Another time I ordered a tune-up kit from him. It wasn't packaged well at all and the center electrode in the cap got smashed. When I called him about it he was very rude and hung up on me. After I calmed down I called back and got a different person. He agreed to send me a new cap at their expense. So, I've had mixed results myself. I tend to look elsewhere now. Merle

You'll notice that this truck also doesn't have the corner windows. This is the Standard Cab, without corner windows and without vent window. The Deluxe and Custom cabs had the corner glass and vent windows. To convert to a non-vent side window you would would need the glass assemblies and front track from that type of door. Then you would need to remove a couple of tabs in the door where the front track and vent window mounts. The window regulators are the same, so you should be able to reuse yours. Also, all necessary holes should already be there to mount the other track. I found all of this out when I got a replacement door last year. The door was a single window setup. I made the tabs for the door to mount my vent wondow setup. So, it wouldn't be difficult to do what you want to do, but you would need some different pieces. I have a glass assembly and front track for a driver's door that I could send your way if you ask nice. Here are some pics for your reference. The tabs in the door. You'll find them when you remove the vent window assembly. I would recommend bending them down out of the way instead of cutting them off. This would make it easier to convert back in the future if so desired. I fabricated tabs and welded them into my replacement door. It was a bit of a P.I.T.A. Single window with front track. Roll up window and front track for vent window door.

Left front is different. The other 3 are the same. Merle

Thanks Ian. My VIN tag is missing. That's good info. If the max horsepower is rated at 3600, I guess it should be capable of spinning at least that fast.

That doesn't look like a Pilot-House setup, Don. I think the one Charlie Ackers used will only fit if the steering box is moved forward slightly. Merle

I was just browsing through my service manual and found the specs for Max RPM on governed engines. The spec is 3200. I guess I'll use that as my "Redline RPM" and go from there. As for the 16" wheels... I don't think they would be correct for my 3/4 ton truck, but that was a thought too. Thanks, Merle

I was just browsing through my service manual and found the specs for Max RPM on governed engines. The spec is 3200. I guess I'll use that as my "Redline RPM" and go from there. As for the 16" wheels... I don't think they would be correct for my 3/4 ton truck, but that was a thought too. Thanks, Merle

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I posted this over on the truck side first, but thought you guys may have some insite for me as well. I've been thinking about tires today. From what I can find, I'm thinking of going with 235/75R15's. The only drawback may be that these tires are recommended for 6" wide rims. Aren't the stock rims 5"ers? This is one issue I've been contemplating. I'm thinking they would probably work. But now to the title question. What's a safe / max RPM for these flat head engines? I've been playing with some calculators and have determined with my 3.73 gears and the 235/75 R15 tires at 28.8" diameter, I'd be spinning around 2500 RPM at 56 MPH. If I spun it up to 3000 RPM I could get 68 MPH out of it. Now 3000 RPM doesn't sound very high by modern engine standards, but what can I expect from this relatively long stroke flattie? Merle

I've been thinking about tires today. From what I can find, I'm thinking of going with 235/75R15's. The only drawback may be that these tires are recommended for 6" wide rims. Aren't the stock rims 5"ers? This is one issue I've been contemplating. I'm thinking they would probably work. But now to the title question. What's a safe / max RPM for these flat head engines? I've been playing with some calculators and have determined with my 3.73 gears and the 235/75 R15 tires at 28.8" diameter, I'd be spinning around 2500 RPM at 56 MPH. If I spun it up to 3000 RPM I could get 68 MPH out of it. Now 3000 RPM doesn't sound very high by modern engine standards, but what can I expect from this relatively long stroke flattie? Merle

It would definitely need a front clip of some kind from what this guy told me. I actually thought about it, for a second. However, as I said... I don't have the spare cash, I don't have the space, and I just sold my 360 to wilmont Andy so I wouldn't have an engine for it, unless I could get it back to stock and use my parts truck engine. Either way, the first 2 problems seal the deal. Merle

I just talked to the guy. It is a '48 1/2 ton (B-1- It is in pieces. As he told me... The cab is setting on the chassis with a coat of primer. The firewall has been modified. He was in the process of "Smoothing" it. He says all of the sheet metal is "pristine". Even the box is in exellent shape. It is a 5 window cab. The corner glass is good, but it'll need all other glass. There is no powertrain. The previous owner had a Ford 289 in it and had hacked the frame for engine mounts. The frame has cracking around that area. Also the front suspension has been modified, in a bad way. He says it's bad. He was going to put a Mustang II suspension under it. It has a 8 3/4 rear axle in it, which will go with the truck. Sounds like a good candidate for a Volarie clip. He says everything is there, excpet for the engine & trans, and in very good condition. He'd like to get $3000 for it. I let him know that a good rolling chassis would only bring in $1500 tops. A nice completed truck might fetch $5000, and a really nice one could go as high as $8000. He's willing to entertain offers. He even asked me what I thought it would be worth. I danced around the issue stating it would be hard to determine without seeing it. Apparently someone told him it would be worth $3000 due to it's age and condition. Maybe it would be if it were a bowtie or blue oval, but unfortunetly not our Dodges. If anyone is interested call Project to Customs in Waukesha, WI at 262-650-1464 and ask for Scott. I might still stop in to look at it out of curiosity. I told him that I would pass along the info, but I really don't have the cash or space for another basket case project. Merle

Dave, this is the stuff I was telling you about. It is an anaerobic gasket maker that seals things up real good. It gets hard like a plastic once it sets up, so it will stay flexible, but won't squish and move like a silicone sealer. We use it in many applications where you need a good metal to metal seal without an actual gasket. There are a few different types from Loctite. 510, 515, & 518 are very similar, it's just a mater of temp rating. It looks like a thick version of red Loctite Threadlocker. Make sure the metal surfaces are VERY clean and dry, apply a bead of this stuff and bolt the cover back on. Let it sit for 30 minutes or so and fill 'er back up. I can pretty much guarantee it won't leak anymore. Napa also markets the same thing with their name on it. This is what we stock here at our shop. It's great stuff for this type of application. Merle

I just got a call from a former colleague. He now has his own Rod and Custom shop. Another guy that he knows recently told him that he has a 1948 Dodge truck in his shop, here in Waukesha, that he wants to unload. Apparently a 60+ year old guy started this project and is now abandoning it and wants to get rid of it. From what I was told it is fully dissassembled and the sheet metal is clean and solid, except for a some rust on the fenders (I'd guess it's around the rivits). The frame is stripped bare and there is no power train. He said the guy wants $3000 for the whole thing. I think he's crazy, but I may go have a look anyway. Anyone need parts? Merle

I've found that those airport security people get pretty curious about a bag full of hydraulic test hoses and gauges too. I guess those coiled hoses looked quite interesting in the x-ray. And since my multi-meter was in there too, they got pretty suspicious.

The governor's primary purpose would be to maintain a constant RPM under varying loads, such as when using a winch or PTO driven attachment. Under regular driving conditions it wouldn't have as much effect.

Kind of cool. They didn't go down my street. Probably because it is a dead end. Someone was getting ready to cross the street at the end of my block though. I don't recognize the person. The shots of my neighborhood were taken late last summer. A house down the street was added on to last year and in these photos they are getting the landscaping done.