Merle Coggins

I just did a "right click" and then clicked on "Properties". I then copied the link and pasted it into the address bar of my browser. I was then able to see the pics. Then for some reason, they appeared when I came back to the thread. Here are the same links. That's an interesting throttle linkage setup. And that's a mean lookin' blower on that Flattie. http://www.inliners.org/Salt/images/Airflow.jpg http://www.inliners.org/Salt/images/Airflow2.jpg

I was getting red X's a couple of days ago too on Pete's posts. Then I was able to right click and select "Show Picture" and the pictures would appear. That's not working on today's posts. Merle

What tension? There shouldn't be any tension on the shocks. When I removed mine, I unbolted the mounts from the frame, then removed the shocks from the lower mounting stud. I only did it this way because I was removing the mounts amyway for painting. It saved a step up front, but I still have to remove them from the old shocks later on. You should be able to remove them the same as on the rear. Merle

Look very similar to the Pilot-House front shock mounts, except maybe they're shorter.

OK, what's the trick. I wanted to pull off my steering wheel to make reinstalling the cab easier but I couldn't get the horn button out. My manual states to press in and twist to the right as far as it'll go and it'll pop up and out. First of all, I can't get a good grip on it. And even with a nitrile glove on for grip, I can't get it to twist and unlock. I managed to get the cab back on anyway, but it would have been easier with the wheel off. And I'd still like to remove it so that I can refinish it, and replace the horn wire. Merle

When I got my truck the engine was seized up tighter than Toby's @$$. The head was removed and laying in the bed, and the cylinders were filled with a mix of oil, water, and unidentified gunk. The engine was basicly half disassembled, yet still in the truck. I have a 360 engine from a '75 Dodge truck sitting in storage and I entertained thoughts about squeezing that into my truck, with a possible K-member upgrade. But the more I thought about it, and the labor that would be involved in that project, plus the fact that I didn't have a good place do that type of project, the more I leaned towards keeping it original. Also, since my truck has the Fluid Drive I liked the idea of keeping that unique drive train system in tact. So far I'm happy with my decission. Merle

Charlie, I've got a complete front axle out of a '51 truck if you need it, or pieces from it, let me know. Merle

I'm kind of like the rest. I think the rodded Pilot-House trucks look nice, but I also like the original ones too. It would be a shame to chop up a perfectly good truck, in my opinion, but it's your truck and you have the ultimate say in what gets done. (or does your wife have the ultimate say? ) Merle

I coulda swore I bought one from Roberts last year, but I'll be damned if I can find it right now. I may need another one. Thanks, Merle

A lot of our new equipment coming in has those little covers on the grease nipples. Some are also a black rubber type. Most of the time they get taken off and tossed because they're a pain in the @$$ for daily greasing. Merle

I think it's just someone's idea of a 2-tone paint job.

My daily driver is a '06 F150 (company truck). Otherwise, I'd be riding my '03 Honda Gold Wing. Also have a '83 Honda 650 Nighthawk, '80 Kawasaki KZ1000 (work in progress), and a '75 Honda XL250 project bike. (also have parts to put together another Nighthawk project bike) Merle

Here's one article from the DPETCA site. It's fairly informative. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/frontend/front.htm There have been others here that have done it. Maybe they can chime in with more. Welcome to the board. Merle

Iching powder would probably work too. As for messing with the guy's mouse... just take the ball out altogether. It doesn't work very well after that. ONly problem with that trick is if he has an optical mouse (no ball). Other than this, I make it a point not to mess with another man's balls.

Office Space is a classic, especially if you work in an office environment. I remember a movie or TV show (can't remember which one) where they caught a thief by coating an item, your Snickers bar, in some chemical that caused the perpetrator's hands to turn purple. The chemical reacts with your sweat and turns purple. I don't know if it's true, or what chemical it was, but it sure worked on that show.

As I recall, from Don Bunn's book, the '48 & '49 rims were black. In '50 they went to a cream color for the rims. Speaking of the "Dodge Truck Cream" color for the '50 and newer rims... Does anyone have that color mix code? I'm gonna need some of that when I get to that part of my build. I remember that it came up on the old board, but I'm too lazy to go back and search through it. I'd also like to hear what people are using for the red accent on the hub caps and etc. And how they apply it.

That's not a saw... Here's a saw. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_owXd_MsdXI

According to the charts on the Pilot-House Knowledge section of the DPETCA site http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/color/imgcol/index.htm there are two blue colors. The Dark Blue 93-23798 and Waterway Blue 93-55093. These are old DULUX or DUCO numbers from DuPont. If you have a DuPont paint dealer in your area they can make a call and cross those numbers to a modern mix number. I was able to do that at my local Auto Paint & Supply store. I took in a copy of the page from the DEPTCA site to show them what I needed. I also took in my glove box door for reference. The young kid didn't have a clue, but the store manager recognized the number as an old DULUX number. He had the kid call someone and get the cross reference for it. Once he got the new number he looked it up on their paint chips and it matched perfectly to my glove box door. With that number they could mix almost any of DuPont's paint systems to that color. Good luck, Merle

I just saw the news and realized that those tornado's were right in Bob's area. I just logged in to send him a similar message and found this one from Norm. bob may even be without power right now even if he survived the storms. We're thinking 'bout you, Bob. Best wishes for you and your neighbors.

I have no idea. It's the switch that came with my truck. The key also works in the door lock, so I have to assume that it's the original key and switch. Merle

It looks like you should be able to remove those bearing inner races from the shaft. You may need to use a torch since you can't get behind them to press them off. Just be easy with the torch and shave away a little at a time. You'll be able to tell when you're through the bearing. Once you have split the race it chould come off easy. You may also try a die grinder or Dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut it. Just be carefull not to nick the shaft too bad. A little nick won't hurt it, but a big gouge may. You may also get lucky by just heating up the race good and hot and trying to drive a chisel under it to pop it loose. Once you can get underneath them you chould be able to press/pry them off. Merle

I just looked at the back of my switch (because it's sitting here on my desk yet). It has 3 terminals. One marked AMP (ammeter), one marked COIL, and one marked ACC. I don't have a continuity meter handy to verify it, but I'm guessing the coil wire attaches to the COIL terminal and any other accessories would go to the ACC terminal. This would give you what you want (I think) Merle

I second that, Wayne. There's nothing like the smell of nitro in the morning. I get dizzy watching those NASCAR boys chasing their tails around an oval track. Road courses are much more exciting. But Drag racing is my favorite. I haven't seen the Aussie racing yet. I'll have to check it out. Merle

When you say it wouldn't start without pulling it, will it not crank over, or just not fire? If your battery isn't up to snuff, or your battery cables are bad or too small, it may not be getting enough juice to the starter for proper cranking. And this may also be causing enough voltage drop so that you have weak spark while cranking. If it'll start by pulling it, that tells me that your ignition system is working. So, double check your battery cables and connections. You should have at least 0 guage cables in good condition. If they have been replaced with modern off the shelf battery cables, they may be too small. 4 or 6 guage is fairly popular for those type of cables. I have 2/0 cable on my truck and it cranks great. Be sure your battery is fully charged, and try again. It's also possible that your starter needs to be cleaned or rebuilt. But you should check these other things first. Good luck, Merle

I thought I've still been hearing adds on the radio about their "Lifetime Warranty" on any new Chrysler product.